I am. You responded to my thread....I'm running a 3.85 pulley, comp cams XE268H cams, longtubes, 2 core intercooler, I'm at 440/400 right now on 93. I hit about 11-12 pounds of boost at 6300 RPM. Other misc mods...SCTBA5000 MAF, 60lb injectors, 255lph, Vortech boost a pump, BBK 78MM, 4.10, yada yada yada.

Total timing is 14-15 degrees...11.5:1 AFR.

 

I've got a D1SC that I'm almost done working the kinks out of.

Basic mods:
-3.4" pulley on stock crank pulley
-Gigantic 4" air-to-air intercooler
-Anderson powerpipe
-SCT BA5000
-60 pound SD injectors

Motor mods:
-Ported PI heads
-Stage II MHS NPI blower cams
-Bullitt intake
-Exhaust
-Built bottom end

I'm at least 90% done with it. Have had some fuel supply problems, but I actually think I've finally resolved all those. Only thing left to do is retune everything (I do my own tuning).

On the last few pulls I made on it, everything was gravy up to about 5500 rpm, where it was running out of fuel. Below 4000 rpm, it's a little laggy, which I guess is typical for centri blowers (I've had a PD blower on my car for the previous near-decade). But at 4000 rpm, holy smokes does everything start coming together. I guess the heads, cams, intake, and blower all start working together at about that point, because she flat GETS DOWN from there.

With this setup, I'm seeing nearly 15 psi at 5500 rpm when I have to back out of it. Even at 11.2 AFRs, 10 degrees of timing, and only turning to 5500 rpm, this setup puts my old Eaton setup to shame (which made an honest 420 rwhp and ran 11.5s @ ~120 mph). I can only imagine what it's gonna feel like once I throw a few more degrees timing at it, lean it out a tad, and actually turn it to 6500 rpm. I don't think it's going to have any issues running well into the 10s at 130+ mph. The mass air flow rate that I'm datalogging is suggesting somewhere between 550-600 rwhp.

The car is definitely a hoot to drive, but I'm still not convinced that the laser-flat torque curve of the Eaton setup wasn't more fun, even if it did make less power. Maybe I'll change my mind once I get everything completely dialed in and crank the tune up a bit.

 

I will have track times later this year...

OP, do you have track times?

---------- Post added at 05:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:36 PM ----------



That will be a very fun car. Will you be running your meth kit as well? If not, do you want to sell it?

 

Here is my set up.
2000 Mustang GT
tr3650 swap.
Procharger D1sc
4' 6 rib pulley
3 core intercooler
Deatschwerks dw300 fuel pump
60lb inj
vmp 5000 MAF
Tial BOV
Accufab plenum/75 tb
Bassani catted x pipe
Magnaflow Magnapack cb
Ford 3.73 gears
295/40/18 rear nittos nt555g2
Exedy Clutch

377whp

 

How much boost are you running?

 

My set up made 377/377 @10psi.

I'm thinking of adding an Anderson power pipe, a bap, and a different pulley. I wonder if I would be able to break into the 400's. What do you guys think?

 

Are you sure you have a D1? Your numbers point more towards a P1.

 

Not sure the difference between blowers but I have a V3 Si trim - 14psi with blower cams did 518rwhp.

 

I have the same blower. Is 14psi the max it can make?

 

I wonder what's going on with mine. And yes, procharger d1

 

Anyone on here good reading the dyno chart and have instagram? Message me @mustang_Eddie

 

Hopefully this works. I do remember my tuner mention that i was running out of fuel. Can you tell from the graph?

 

Interesting seems odd to be running out of fuel with your setup. Its hard to tell from the graph since its seems to stay under the 12.0 range throughout redline. Although if you look at the red line which indicates almost 10psi you are going a bit lean at 6100-6200 rpm

 

Thats what i said. Didn't seem right.

 

It is SAE corrected. No information of temperature, barometric pressure, humidity or correction factor so we do not know if the correction was up or down. It is possible that the tuner just put on a very safe tune. Running 10 psi I would have expected SAE to be in the mid-390s.

 

Wonder what the total timing was...AFR looks good according to the sheet.

 

Should I ask my tuner for the info?

 

Funny that you mentioned that, the car was tuned without the IAT Sensor wired into the vmp 5000 MAF. Would that have caused any problems?

Another possibility, would having a vacuum leak cause any problems during the dyno tune?

 

A vac leak will make it run poorly. It willl be a boost leak but you are still making 10lbs which about right with the 4in pulley.

I think it’s just super conservative. Every degree added is about 10hp I think...if your total timing is 10-11 you are missing about 30 solid safe rwhp. I could be off on the HP per degree. He might have done that because if your IAT issues. Maybe he pulled timing to account for a high IATs. Which is a good thing.

Is your IAT wired in now?

 

Yes, the IAT is now wired in and the vacuum leak has been fixed.
I bought a boost gauge that i'm going to install so i can monitor if i'm getting 10psi.

My dilemma, should i retune it? I don't really feel like paying for another tune though; haha.

 

Surely you can send some logs to him to look at and see if a retune is needed. I would say, though, if the IAT is now working and you know you have a vacuum leak then I would say a retune should be done. I'm surprised he even tuned it without an IAT sensor...I personally would not let my car be dyno tuned with an IAT sensor.

 

I actually didn't even know. We found out later that it wasn't .

 

You should be able to hit between 700rwhp and 800rwhp with that maf in a 3" pipe. I would get a retune with all the sensors and vac leak sorted. Shouldn't have any issues after that.

 

I have a power pipe sitting at home, should I install it? How does that work, do I gain or loose psi?
Should I also change pulley and add a bap?

My goal is 440rwhp

 

If your goal is 440, you will def need a pulley. A BAP depends on where your FPDC is at now.

I personally don't think a Powerpipe is needed (I have the stock procharger intake and I'm making 440w with it). I believe you will gain boost becuase you will be moving more air PRE-Headunit so more air making it into the engine (with the same restrictions in place POST blower your boost will increase).

 

This is how she looks now

 

Pulley down and get a better tune you will hit 440 with about 13psi

Buy a BAP just in case or see if the tuner sells them.

 

What's a safe psi on a stock engine?

What pulley should I go with? Maybe 3.85?

 

What's a safe psi on a stock engine?

It depends. Years ago when I bought my supercharger tuners were saying 8 psi, or 380 rwhp. Top tuners were saying that in all the car magazines. ProCharger published a chart that said 8 psi on Romeo motors and 10 psi on Windsors. Why more on a Windsor? They have a lower compression ratio.

Back then a New Edge was still fairly new. They were just out of warranty and a lot of people were modifying them, installing superchargers, and pushing the envelope. The general rule of thumb became 10 psi or 400 rwhp on pump gas. But risk takers disagreed. They said they heard about 13 or 14 psi and some posted outrageous claims of 500+ rwhp. They did this without telling the entire story.

People were also blowing up their motors. The more boost you add the less margin of safety you have left. One guy bragged about 13 psi and 415-420 rwhp. His motor lasted 9 months. Another bragged about 14 psi and 430 rwhp. His motor lasted 6 months. Some guys built dyno queens. I remember one posting that he was running 13 psi when the car was tuned but he refused to run it past 5500 rpm when actually driving it for fear of blowing it up. Some built garage queens driving them only 1,000-2,500 miles per year.

The general consensus is that 10 psi or 400 rwhp is reasonably safe. If you are running 10 psi on a completely stock motor you should be near 400 rwhp. That is SAE corrected which is a more common standard than STD. 9 psi will make 400 rwhp using STD correction. (reference my signature).

Do some get away with more boost? Yes. Does everyone get away with more boost? No.

If you want more than that then you need to make the motor more efficient by installing supercharger cams. They typically add 30-40 rwhp without running higher boost. Want that near 500 number? You need to put in big injectors and run E85.

You need to decide how much risk you want to take. I never recommend something that I wouldn't run myself that is why I say 10 psi and 400 rwhp is reasonably safe on a stock 4.6 2V.

What pulley should I go with? Maybe 3.85?

You need to get your problems fixed and your tune right before you start adding smaller pulleys. What is your goal for your car? The old saying is "Plan the build, build to the plan." If you don't know your goal you are just throwing money at it.

There is another old saying, "fast, reliable, cheap." Pick two. Fast and reliable isn't cheap. Cheap and reliable isn't fast. Fast and cheap isn't reliable.

My goal for my car was that of a reasonably fast, fun daily driver. I consider 12.7/111 mph to be reasonably fast. My car was hardly a garage queen. Before I retired I drove 20,000 miles per year and I hit 6,000 rpm almost every time I drove it. It is fun to drive.

I still drive my car 7,000-8,000 miles per year. It has 210,000 miles and the last 130,000 were supercharged. I change oil twice per year. It using around 3/4 quart of oil between oil changes. I would say it has been reliable.

 

You said a lot of good info; i appreciate that. My goal is the same as yours, reasonably fast, fun daily driver, and that can keep up to the newer cars. I will fix all the problems it has first, then i will take it to the track to see how she does.

 

Anyone on here experienced with bov's? I'm running a Tial 50mm and I believe I'm getting surge. Is this bad? How can I fix it? I believe I'm running a 6psi spring. Should I switch it?

 

My Tail come with a 2lb spring for S/C applications. My tuner even weakened it a bit more to get it to perform correctly with my set-up. 6lb seems high.

 

6 psi is too much. You are suppose to run a 2 pound spring when using the Tial with a supercharger.
http://tialsport.com/documents/w3_tial_qqr_sp.pdf

Looking at the chart it appears that the 2 pound spring is 3 pounds when used in the Tial 50. The spring does not hold the BOV closed. It starts the BOV to close. Boost (through the vacuum line) actually holds the butterfly valve in the BOV closed. One pound is roughly equivalent to 2 in.hg. of vacuum. A 3 pound spring will start the BOV to close at around 5-6 in.hg. A 2 pound spring start it to close around 3-4 in.hg. Once closed it cannot open until you let off the throttle and the engine goes back to vacuum.

I wouldn't think a 6 pound spring would cause surging. I think it would the the opposite. It would keep the BOV from closing when it was suppose to. Not opening all the way causes surging.

I had surging once. I thought I needed a new BOV. I was convinced the diaphragm inside of it was leaking. I was talking to tech support when I discovered the adjustment lock nut was missing. That not only cause leaking vacuum but it also made it impossible for the butterfly valve to open all the way. I replaced the lock nuts and adjusted the BOV so that it would fully open. I have driven it 8 years after the repair with no problems.