Do you have gears? Those would help out the most

And then a shift kit

 

Before he worries about a shift kit he needs to get his acceleration so answering his question. Whatever gears you have now, bump up to 3.73's or 3.55's on the rear. BIG DIFFERENCE eithier way.

Then if you want that quicker bump off the line you can replace your planitary gear so you will have a lower first gear, good for that "shift kit" like a Hurst Rachet or so ask summitracing.com about that. You can bump up to a 3000 stall... No dude 3000 is a street/strip stall speed and 2500 aint ****, if you're gonna stall...STALL. and that one cost around 300-400 from Summiracing.com or jegs.com.

While your between the motor and tranny, replace those stock u-joints on the driveshaft then swing back around front to install an aftermarket flexplate. No more than $195 total and you can get a Hays flexplate from ebay, that gives you quicker acceleration and much faster revs To complete your upgrade, go ahead a bark a little dough for a B & M shifter or Hurst, whichever you prefer. Be sure to get a "rachet shifter" as they call it.

Bump your timing up just a tad, maybe 4-6 degrees so you can get the most out of your engine and no, gas will not effect a thing.

 

dam well said teal

 

that was a good summary

 

go 4.10's with a auto

 

no way! 4.10s with an aode feel more like 3.55s or 3.73s at best. i have a Performance Automatic's Super Streeter AODE with a B&M Hole Shot 2,800-3,200 converter and i was extremely dissapointed with 4.10s and ended up putting 4.30s in it. i'm not sure how the o/d ratio compaires to a 5 speed manual but 4.10s with the auto feel weak compaired to 4.10s in a manual.

 

i'l add a +1 to the 4.10's

 

+1 4.10's in auto

 

3.73's ftw.

 

contact dan his screen name is silverfox over at Click Click Racing if you plan on doing any mods to your transmission...for close to the same price as a shift kit he will build you a custom valve body and its a lot better than any kit....he also builds these trannies to hold 700-1000 HP with out a lot of cash. he can also get you a stall converter...I dont know about a 3000 stall for 3-4 hundred bucks dont think I would trust it I paid like 8-9 for my 3800 I think but you dont want something thats going to break in a week he will hook you up and is the best on prices and can do all the labor ...very cool guy to work with look him up

 

4.10 is good but gas will be hell even if he didn't care. I do miss my old car though it had that setup I was telling him and a hurst rachet, reaction was hell WHOOOOO!!!. but gas...WWWHHHAAAAAA.. WHHAAAA LOL

 

It cost me about 600 to swap from the aod to the t5 in my 91. it was the same as yours, quick off the go but slower than crap on a roll. the 5 speed swap was the best mod ive done to that car. slightly time consuming. took me a weekend to do from start to finish and the absolute hardest part is the damn pedal assembly. I still have stock gears and I have more than enough get up and go in every gear. plus I still get about 18mpg..which doesn't seem all that good but in albuquerque, nm elevation sits around 6000ft so im actually doing pretty good. so unless youre set on the auto, swap to the 5 speed. or if youre pretty mechanically inclined and have some money to spend,drop in a t56.

 

if gas was a real issue he should get a hyundai

 

4.10s will take away like 1mpg so like mabey 10 miles less per tank of gas

No big deal if you ask me

4.10s FTW on an auto

 

Do you have first hand experience with this? My experience with 4.10s is a noticeable change in highway fuel economy verus 3.73 gears but going from 3.55 gears to 3.73 gears is not so noticeable. Noticeable difference being 3-4mpg. I've never made the comparison in AOD cars, just in 5 speed cars so maybe its different with an AOD.

 

perfect timing for this post.... i still have my crappy 3.29's but 16.5 mpg. i have an aod as well and was looking to switch to a 3.73. how much of a diffrence in lets say 0-60 and 1/4 mile times would i see? i know seat of the pants feel will be better. what would be the diffrence in the 3.73 and 4.10's times, mpg, etc? at $4/gal i see his point in saving some gas. and i didnt get a hyundai its a honda! had to get rid of my gmc for a f*ing honda, but thats a rant for another day

 

4.10's might do like an extra car length over 3.73's right? or possibly more none of us really know for sure i dont think

 

Thanks I guess the consensus is gears first and then shift kit and stall converter. Sounds about right I guess.

 

Honestly gears do not have to be first ALTHOUGH it's a good damn thing to start with, but you can get that from the other stuff mentioned. If you go gears first, please get the gears and stall converter at the same time. You get better accel launch from just the stall but you then need something to keep you going and that's gears. shouldn't cost you no more than $450.00 for all and it will be good ****, not slap together stuff.

 

450 for gears and stall? its hard to find 450 for just gears

 

Are you kidding me?!? Where do you shop man? If you have a hard time finding gears alone less than $150 bucks than you need to stop listening to your friends or burning your rich money and learn how to shop. Hell Summitracing.com has 5.33's or something like that for $189 or so so you mean to tell me you spend $450 bucks on gears by themselves. What, you have someone custom make the damn things?...

2500-3000stall - $329.99
FRPP 4.10 Gears - $150.00


Hell grab a Mustang Restoration magazine and put down that expensive high dollar plastic wrapped book. Remember, he has more than one place to shop.

 

I have a 01' GT auto what would be a top speed with having 4:10?

 

your best off getting a set of gears very first, 3:73`s or even 4:10`s........now the AOD is a awesome trans in my opinion, but its got some weak points, the input shaft breaks clean at about 300-350 hp, they also have a huge problem with heat, so get a good after market trans cooler.
the AOD`s biggest fault is the fact that you can not hold 2nd gear, unless doing the 1-2-1 shift, so some people like to do whats called the EPOXY mod AOD 1-2-3/4 Shift Pattern (EPOXY Mod) - Click Click Racing Forums it makes the shift pattern 1-2-3/4.

after that i would recommend a shift kit, sonnex boost valve with a 2500-2700 stall converter, and while you have the trans out for the converter, its a good idea to swap it out for the hardend input shaft.

most transmission builders would disagree with this, they usually feel that if your going to build a trans, start from the beginning and do everything

 

the AOD is a awesome trans in my opinion, but its got some weak points, the input shaft breaks clean at about 300-350 hp, they also have a huge problem with heat, so get a good after market trans cooler.
the AOD`s biggest fault is the fact that you can not hold 2nd gear, unless doing the 1-2-1 shift, so some people like to do whats called the EPOXY mod AOD 1-2-3/4 Shift Pattern (EPOXY Mod) - Click Click Racing Forums it makes the shift pattern 1-2-3/4.

after that i would recommend a shift kit, sonnex boost valve with a 2500-2700 stall converter, and while you have the trans out for the converter, its a good idea to swap it out for the hardend input shaft.

most transmission builders would disagree with this, they usually feel that if your going to build a trans, start from the beginning and do everything

save yourself the trouble and buy a P/A super streeter for $1,450

(quote from Jegs)
Super Streeter Transmissions
The Super Streeter handles engines up to 450 horsepower on C4 and AOD, as well as up to 550 horsepower on AODE models. It features extreme-duty clutches and bands, vastly-improved lubrication circuits to reduce heat and wear, and better thrust capabilities with firmer, crisper shifts.

(quote from P/A)
First offered in full sized Ford cars and trucks in 1989, this trans quickly found its way into the ever popular 5.0 mustang in 1984. Plagued with soft shifts and poor reliability, the AOD was not originally designed with performance in mind. Performance Automatic recognized the future potential of this transmission and quickly went about re-designing the hydraulic circuits. What emerged was a transmission that could handle more horsepower and torque than was originally thought. Performance Automatic combined high performance Alto racing clutches and Kevlar bands to improve heat dissipation at the application points. The Performance Automatic re-designed clutch and band application ratios to provide firm, positive shift characteristics. Top these improvements off with a deep aluminum pan and you have an AOD that any Ford enthusiast would enjoy.

 

+1 on the 3.73 gears and converter.

 

3.73s will not even be a noticeable enough difference with an aod or aode to justify the money spent

 

for sure go with the 4:10s, got them in my 92 gt couple months ago. gas isnt as bad as u would think i tihnk im still averaging around like 12-14 depending on how i drive

 

I hope that 12-14 is 100% city driving otherwise that is pretty horrible for an EFI Mustang.

 

latemodel restoration is the best price on gears but your still well over $600 for gears & a stall

 

Well thats well within my budget. Will it make a very noticeable difference? I know its not a power adder or nothing. But I DONT go to the track so a difference in like .2 of a second isnt even worth it. I just want faster gitty up for street driving and fun you know.

 

I dont know about summit but I got my stall from alan at dirty dog performance and think I paid like 450-500 bucks for it...its like a 2800 or 3000 dont remember. One thing you need to know about a stall converter is that you need to know where you car comes on the cam its not the higher the better when getting a stall you need to launch where you are making good power if you go to high its going to be almost as bad as too low....at least this is what I understand cause alan and Jay (cam guy) where in communication when doing the cam and the stall

 

AOD gear ratios

First: 2.40:1
Second: 1.47:1
Third: 1.00:1
Overdrive: 0.67:1

T-5 gear ratios

1st 3.35
2nd 1.99
3rd 1.33
4th 1.00
5th 0.68

compairing the 1st gear ratios the auto will feel less ballsy with 3.73s than the manual transmission. and the overdrive ratio is less with the auto than the T-5 in 5th gear so it will turn less RPMs at highway speeds.

 

Put that overdrive in a formula and tell me how much less the AOD is going to turn on the highway.....I got a chuckle out of that.

Actually the early T5s were 3.35 first gear, the later World Class T5s had a 2.95 first gear. It really doesn't matter though. Comparing first gear ratios between an automatic and a manual is not a comparison at all. They are two different styles of transmissions that operate in two totally different ways. One thing automatics have that manual transmissions will never have is torque multiplication which is why manual transmissions have such a low first gear. In stock form they are sluggish but with the proper converter an AOD comes to life, like any automatic does. Optimal rear gear ratio has to do with the intended rpm range, not the style of transmission. Although this conversation is quite common across the internet and people find it puzzling how fast I've gone when I'm running less gear than what the internet experts suggest. I guess the bigger is better theory will never die.

 

oh so the 4:30's are good for a 2001 Mustang GT 4R70W? b/c i don't want to make a mistake and waste 500 to 800 bucks. i am going to build my car up ALOT. and i want to hook too. i know once i go Kenne Bell 2.8H i will do 3:55 b.c i am going for 550+ RWHP. but are 4:30 N/A good? and they good for a street race rolls?

 

like 20,30,55 and 60mph rolls?