The pistons are forged on the Termi and the stock Termi blocks have seen well over 700rwhp. Doing that on the Eaton might be a hard thing to do without N2O, but with an upgrade it isn't hard to imagine at all.

 

The pistons are forged on the Termi and the stock Termi blocks have seen well over 1000 rwhp. Doing that on the Eaton might be a hard thing to do without N2O, but with an upgrade it isn't hard to imagine at all.

Fixed.

 

900 Hp has been seen on stock cobra internals

 

before i bought my 03 cobra i was going to buy a silver 05 gto, i am glad i didn't termi ftmfw

 

the gto are nice as hell but the cobras are more built for performance and serious modifications off the showroom floor!

SVT knew what it was all about! who cares about really nice interior? i just wanna go fast!

(but dont get me wrong, as with any car......GTO's can be made fast as **** too......just not as easy as with the termi's)

 

cobra can handle 900 its been done

 

Your friend is smokin the crack. Tell him to put down the pipe and do some research. There are a TON of people running around 700rwhp on stock internals. As the other guys here have said even some at 900+. Of course thats running on borrowed time but they can handle it.

 

good thats what i thought, if need to push the envelope further, what's needed upgraded pistons and rods for the engine to handle more power?

 

The problem with the stock pistons is they have tight piston to wall clearance and when they heat up they tend to expand and thats where you start having problems. The rods are pretty damn strong as is the crank. I don't know exactly what you would need but there are a ton of different builds for whatever you desire. You can buy some awesome shortblocks from some very reputable builders. Here is an example of a built motor that the guy that tuned my car builds.

AED 'Signature Series' 800HP Shortblock - $3850

Includes:
Seasoned Iron Modular Block
8-bolt 4340 forged stock stroke crankshaft
4340 'H' or 'I' beam rods with ARP cap-screw bolts
Diamond piston upgrade with valve reliefs for 2 or 4V heads
File-fit 'Moly' rings
Taperwall tool steel wrist pins (necessary when pushing over 800HP)
'Race series' main & rod bearings
ARP 2000 Main Studs
Fully built, machined, balanced, & blueprinted

Other options:
3.75" Stroker rotating assembly: Add $1050
ARP 2000 Headstuds: $325
'Race prep' Crankshaft: $250
'Nascar' anti-oil crankshaft coating: $450
MultiLayerSteel headgaskets: $295
SHM 'Big bore' Aluminum block with billet main caps & ARP Main Studs: $5195
Custom pistons (any dish or dome, etc): Add $300
Supertech high-flow & undercut Nitride Coated 4V valves: $495 (stock size)
Supertech high-flow & undercut Nitride Coated 4V valves: $595 (2MM larger intake)
Custom 2V camshafts: $650
Custom 4V camshafts: $1300
Compcams 4V valvespring & steel retainer pkg: $595
Compcams 4V Titanium Retainers: $575
Oliver Billet rods: $1200

 

thanks for the info, i'm at 488hp but will be happy with 650-700rwhp, but have a long way to go and deepen my pockets, would be nice to outrun my friends 550hp goat, but i guess am far from doing so

 

If he wouldn't have blown up his car you should have given him a run. You may have been surprised, especially if you can drive better than him.

 

That block sounds alright, but I think that the shortblock that I'm building trumps that one. For the record Boosted LS2 = Booset termi if not greater. LS2's are not to be underestimated by any means.

Here is what my current buildup entails.

Teksid block bored .20 over,
Diamond coated pistons, with 4v reliefs cut, (IF I STAY ON NITROUS!!! flat tops)
Oliver billet rods,
4340 Coated and Balanced Crank,
Federal Mogul HP series bearings,
ARP 2000 main and head studs,
Stainless rings filed to fit,
MMR Hurricane billet oil pump
Canton pan w/windage tray and pick up,
Fox Lake Stage 3 ported heads,
Titanium valvetrain parts,
Fel Pro MLS head gaskets,
Some custom intake work that can't be disclosed,
Either custom ACmillr N/A Cams or Custom MPH Blower Cams

It will be topped of with either a Pro Charger D-1SC and 3 row intercooler or a 2 stage Nitrous system.

 

Sounds like a stout setup, I was just posting that one as an example.

 

i seen a cobra running 1000 hp on stock block he had it built totally with a hugh cold intercooler.

 

MISINFORMATION^^^


The Cobra blocks are generally good for around 800HP. Past that, the pistons start to go bye-bye and the heads begin to lift.

 

Those are the dyno queens that may have pushed 1000rwhp once or twice for a total of 30min.

 

that much power isn't even necessary is it lol

slicks would be beggin for mercy and if you can't put the power down, then what's the point.

 

true about boosted ls2=boosted termis, but after upgrading the internals, today i talked to the gto owner and his motor went bye-bye, the spring on the wastegate actuator was rated 10lbs and some **** happened and the boost creeped up, he said the car ran strong for a little bit and then boooooom, now he has to deepen his pockets to upgrade

 

It's cool bro, I'm just happy that my shortblock is being built right now.

 

Boosted LS1/2's are safe at 550rwhp. At 600rwhp is the point when you are on borrored time. There have been alot of guys over on LS1tech and LS1gto that have been around the 650rwhp area for a while and just have their fingers crossed. With us we need a spot on tune and meth/alky since we have such high compression.

 

the only cobra that said to hit 1000 horse with stock internals is the one hellion compound boosted and they lied, they replaced the pistons, it wasnt compeltely stock

 

like stated above 700 horse is in the safe range, the pistons are the really week part of those motors, but they are motors and other parts can go at any time even at just 600 horse, there tough but the motors are getting older and older

 

true that, i have to take care of my motor which is at 79k miles, i just bought it with 77k and the only mod done to it was a k&n fipk, i guess since it wasn't really modded, it has some life left in it,

 

i didn't waste any time and the first mods i added were the head cooling mod and dual pass h/e, which i thik those are crusial to keep the iat temp down and longevity of the motor

 

Hell I've ran down a few cars that made more power than me. All were FI though, you put an N/A car making 500+rwhp against an FI 600+rwhp car and in that short distance that you race on the street unless it's a positive displacement blower the N?A car is going to be hard to real in.