Tools:
2 Tubes of Urethane adhesive
![Image]()
I got mine from a local Glaser for $20.00 a piece.
Caulk Gun
Torx Socket set
Metric Socket set
Phillips/Flat head screw driver
Step I:
Start by removing the cover on the seat belt loop anchor and unscrew the coat hanger with a Phillips screw driver.
![Image]()
Once you've popped off the cover on the seat belt anchor you will reveal a torx bit fastener that also needs to be removed.
![Image]()
Once you've removed the belt anchor go ahead an remove the Christmas tree fastener, aka ribbed shank, that was sitting underneath it using a flat head screw driver, be careful not to damage your plastic interior as you can tell i take great care in mine.
![Image]()
Now proceed to remove the panel from the car, I find that it works best to pull from the door opening and make my way back towards the rear windshield, I believe there are only three ribbed shanks holding it to the inside wall. When removing be careful not to damage the defrost connector.
![Image]()
Sometimes the ribbed shanks like to stay put on the car
![Image]()
You're going to have to remove them and if you look at the picture they have a lip under the head
![Image]()
which goes here on the panel you just removed.
![Image]()
and here is a picture of it installed on the panel.
![Image]()
this will make the re-installation much easier when you're putting the plastic paneling back in its place.
Step II:
You are now presented with the hex nuts that are holding down the C-Pillar to the vehicle, there are five in total. I pointed them out in the pictures below.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Go ahead and remove these you will notice this on all the nuts
![Image]()
that's just urethane adhesive that was applied to the nuts. Go ahead and clean it off the nut, try to get it as clean as possible. Reason being when putting the nuts back you will need to reapply some urethane adhesive to the nut before installing them and your going to want a clean surface for the adhesive to adhere to.
The next step is to remove the exterior gasket.
Remove these 5 pins using a flat head screw driver popping them off of the door jam, try to keep them in the gasket so they don't get lost.
![Image]()
You're than going to pull it out all the way towards the kick panel up front. It should come out pretty easily.
![Image]()
Then do the same with the inside gasket
![Image]()
![Image]()
Now you have revealed the sheet metal bracket that holds both gaskets to the car. You will notice there are torx bit screws holding it to the car.
![Image]()
![Image]()
I like to remove at least the first five starting from the rear of the car towards the front.
Once you've removed the fasteners, pull down the sheet metal bracket trying not to bend it as pictured below.
![Image]()
The previous owner of this vehicle apparently had to access this area in the past and due to it being bent when pulled it will always fold in that area.
If this happens to you it is not that big of deal just don't go to crazy pulling it down. You want to pull it down far enough to be able to see and remove this Phillips screw that's hiding under it and is also holding the A pillar to the car.
![Image]()
There are several, you want to remove the one that is closest to the C-pillar which is the one i circled above.
Once you have removed the screw you will notice the A-pillar is loose where it joins the C-pillar. Go ahead and pull the C-pillar loose from the car starting at the top edge where it meets the rear windshield. You will notice that it is still attached to the car where it meets the A-pillar.
Go ahead and lift the A-pillar from the car while holding the A-pillar in position take the C-pillar and pull it up and then down to unhook it from the A-pillar.
<pic will be added l8r>
Once the C-pillar is removed you'll be left with the 1/4 window.
![Image]()
You will notice underneath the C-pillar there is no clear coat, unfortunately the Mach 1 C-pillar swoops in a little closer to the car and some of this unfinished paint will be visible.
![Image]()
Its actually not that bad depending on how anal you are
.
Also you will need to remove the molding that sits below the 1/4 window, simply jut pull up on it and there are three clips that keep it fastened to the sheet metal.
<pic will b added l8r>
Now make you're way back inside and there will be four 7mm nuts holding the glass to the body. Go ahead an remove these.
![Image]()
After they have been removed go ahead and begin to pry the window off of the car starting from the top of the glass and pulling toward you. It will take a little bit of effort depending on if its a hot day or a cold day. Its easier to remove on a hot day but makes more of a mess.
Step III:
Your going to have to remove all of the old adhesive off of the body of the vehicle, its actually pretty easy. If you take a good chunk of it off of the car and then use that piece of urethane to remove the reaming adhesive from the car. The adhesive sticks to itself better than it does to the metal so by pressing what you have in your hand into whats on the car it will lift and remove the urethane clean off the car. Just repeat this process until its pretty darn clean. I also did this on a hot day which helps greatly if using this method.
If your not having luck with the method above than you can either A) use a blow dryer to heat it up and try it or B) use a gasket scraper to clean it off of the car being careful not to scratch the paint or C) combine methods A and B.
Below is an example of how not to apply urethane adhesive to the vehicle, (I thought I could pull this off before going to school and ended up rushing to get it on and make it to class on time.) This will cause unwanted wind noise and not so good for rainy days.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
Here is the proper way of applying the adhesive, you want a nice thick and tall bead on both mating faces.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
To back track a little bit you'll want to pull the metal lid of off the bottom of the urethane tube to reveal the plastic cup in which the caulk gun is going to push into and expel the adhesive from the tube. Unscrew the top of the tube and pop a hole in the sheet metal cover on the top portion to allow the adhesive to come out. Then cut the tip of the nose off of the plastic cone and thread it back onto the tube. Load it into the caulk gun and go to town.
Depending on what type of caulk gun you're using it might take ALOT of effort to get the adhesive to come out of the tube. I had a really cheap and crappy caulk gun which required an immense force to squeeze the trigger. I ended up inserting a 3/8" extension into the trigger folding the edges over the extension to encapsulate it and then wrapped it in electrical tape to keep it from flying out of the trigger. By doing this I gave myself more leverage which made squeezing the caulk guns trigger much much easier.
<pic will b inserted l8r>
After you have laid down the adhesive onto the both surfaces go ahead and place the mach 1 window where the GT window was being careful not to make a mess with the adhesive. Easiest way is to line up the glass is to use the two left holes on the body and then the tow right ones, because the right holes are slotted they have more play than the left ones. Push the window down firmly into place and fasten it to the car. You might get some excess adhesive on the inside of the glass you can either cut it off or leave it.
Then re-installation is the reverse of the removal except for the fact that you will be installing the Mach 1 pillars in place of the GT ones.
Also if the C-pillar gasket material doesn't come with you're mach 1 pillars here is a pic on how I re-used my GT gaskets to go onto the Mach 1 Pillars.
<pic will b added l8r>
Also don't forget to put some urethane adhesive on the nuts holding the C-pillar.
2 Tubes of Urethane adhesive
I got mine from a local Glaser for $20.00 a piece.
Caulk Gun
Torx Socket set
Metric Socket set
Phillips/Flat head screw driver
Step I:
Start by removing the cover on the seat belt loop anchor and unscrew the coat hanger with a Phillips screw driver.
Once you've popped off the cover on the seat belt anchor you will reveal a torx bit fastener that also needs to be removed.
Once you've removed the belt anchor go ahead an remove the Christmas tree fastener, aka ribbed shank, that was sitting underneath it using a flat head screw driver, be careful not to damage your plastic interior as you can tell i take great care in mine.
Now proceed to remove the panel from the car, I find that it works best to pull from the door opening and make my way back towards the rear windshield, I believe there are only three ribbed shanks holding it to the inside wall. When removing be careful not to damage the defrost connector.
Sometimes the ribbed shanks like to stay put on the car
You're going to have to remove them and if you look at the picture they have a lip under the head
which goes here on the panel you just removed.
and here is a picture of it installed on the panel.
this will make the re-installation much easier when you're putting the plastic paneling back in its place.
Step II:
You are now presented with the hex nuts that are holding down the C-Pillar to the vehicle, there are five in total. I pointed them out in the pictures below.
Go ahead and remove these you will notice this on all the nuts
that's just urethane adhesive that was applied to the nuts. Go ahead and clean it off the nut, try to get it as clean as possible. Reason being when putting the nuts back you will need to reapply some urethane adhesive to the nut before installing them and your going to want a clean surface for the adhesive to adhere to.
The next step is to remove the exterior gasket.
Remove these 5 pins using a flat head screw driver popping them off of the door jam, try to keep them in the gasket so they don't get lost.
You're than going to pull it out all the way towards the kick panel up front. It should come out pretty easily.
Then do the same with the inside gasket
Now you have revealed the sheet metal bracket that holds both gaskets to the car. You will notice there are torx bit screws holding it to the car.
I like to remove at least the first five starting from the rear of the car towards the front.
Once you've removed the fasteners, pull down the sheet metal bracket trying not to bend it as pictured below.
The previous owner of this vehicle apparently had to access this area in the past and due to it being bent when pulled it will always fold in that area.
If this happens to you it is not that big of deal just don't go to crazy pulling it down. You want to pull it down far enough to be able to see and remove this Phillips screw that's hiding under it and is also holding the A pillar to the car.
There are several, you want to remove the one that is closest to the C-pillar which is the one i circled above.
Once you have removed the screw you will notice the A-pillar is loose where it joins the C-pillar. Go ahead and pull the C-pillar loose from the car starting at the top edge where it meets the rear windshield. You will notice that it is still attached to the car where it meets the A-pillar.
Go ahead and lift the A-pillar from the car while holding the A-pillar in position take the C-pillar and pull it up and then down to unhook it from the A-pillar.
<pic will be added l8r>
Once the C-pillar is removed you'll be left with the 1/4 window.
You will notice underneath the C-pillar there is no clear coat, unfortunately the Mach 1 C-pillar swoops in a little closer to the car and some of this unfinished paint will be visible.
Its actually not that bad depending on how anal you are
.Also you will need to remove the molding that sits below the 1/4 window, simply jut pull up on it and there are three clips that keep it fastened to the sheet metal.
<pic will b added l8r>
Now make you're way back inside and there will be four 7mm nuts holding the glass to the body. Go ahead an remove these.
After they have been removed go ahead and begin to pry the window off of the car starting from the top of the glass and pulling toward you. It will take a little bit of effort depending on if its a hot day or a cold day. Its easier to remove on a hot day but makes more of a mess.
Step III:
Your going to have to remove all of the old adhesive off of the body of the vehicle, its actually pretty easy. If you take a good chunk of it off of the car and then use that piece of urethane to remove the reaming adhesive from the car. The adhesive sticks to itself better than it does to the metal so by pressing what you have in your hand into whats on the car it will lift and remove the urethane clean off the car. Just repeat this process until its pretty darn clean. I also did this on a hot day which helps greatly if using this method.
If your not having luck with the method above than you can either A) use a blow dryer to heat it up and try it or B) use a gasket scraper to clean it off of the car being careful not to scratch the paint or C) combine methods A and B.
Below is an example of how not to apply urethane adhesive to the vehicle, (I thought I could pull this off before going to school and ended up rushing to get it on and make it to class on time.) This will cause unwanted wind noise and not so good for rainy days.
Here is the proper way of applying the adhesive, you want a nice thick and tall bead on both mating faces.
To back track a little bit you'll want to pull the metal lid of off the bottom of the urethane tube to reveal the plastic cup in which the caulk gun is going to push into and expel the adhesive from the tube. Unscrew the top of the tube and pop a hole in the sheet metal cover on the top portion to allow the adhesive to come out. Then cut the tip of the nose off of the plastic cone and thread it back onto the tube. Load it into the caulk gun and go to town.
Depending on what type of caulk gun you're using it might take ALOT of effort to get the adhesive to come out of the tube. I had a really cheap and crappy caulk gun which required an immense force to squeeze the trigger. I ended up inserting a 3/8" extension into the trigger folding the edges over the extension to encapsulate it and then wrapped it in electrical tape to keep it from flying out of the trigger. By doing this I gave myself more leverage which made squeezing the caulk guns trigger much much easier.
<pic will b inserted l8r>
After you have laid down the adhesive onto the both surfaces go ahead and place the mach 1 window where the GT window was being careful not to make a mess with the adhesive. Easiest way is to line up the glass is to use the two left holes on the body and then the tow right ones, because the right holes are slotted they have more play than the left ones. Push the window down firmly into place and fasten it to the car. You might get some excess adhesive on the inside of the glass you can either cut it off or leave it.
Then re-installation is the reverse of the removal except for the fact that you will be installing the Mach 1 pillars in place of the GT ones.
Also if the C-pillar gasket material doesn't come with you're mach 1 pillars here is a pic on how I re-used my GT gaskets to go onto the Mach 1 Pillars.
<pic will b added l8r>
Also don't forget to put some urethane adhesive on the nuts holding the C-pillar.
