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I'm gonna give a nano a try soon. These interest me a lot.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
I am gonna go with Body Wrap as soon as I get this quarter panel fixed...
Dont forget chris, Wolfs hardbody is hitting DetDomain soon, like bodywrap with better beading and antiscratch properties. Phil said he should get it in on his next order. If its nearly the same price, go for the scratch protection bro. Especially on that pretty black paint.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Damn, that opticoat is pretty impressive, i would say really impressive since you were weekly washing with Dawn, the LSP killer. You can see deformation in the beading but theres definitely still protection there, and in florida, very nice.

Im holding out for Hardbody to hit detailersdomain, if i get impatient ill go with bodywrap. The reason mostly is because i plan on prepping with shine and seal, which i know BW and HB are designed to bond to.

Very impressive test tho, i saw a guy do a test of 8 different waxes on autopia, he had pete's 53 outlast collinite 476 and 845, which was very unexpected since collinite is so well known for durability.

Monday im rewaxing my car to last til i get nano coating. I dont need clay, so im gonna dawn wash, final polish (to clean the pores and level the surface some) full IPA wipedown, dawnwash again, then do 2 coats of Pete's 53. That should buy me 2-3 months. Ive seen pete's last 6 which is surprising.
 
Damn, that opticoat is pretty impressive, i would say really impressive since you were weekly washing with Dawn, the LSP killer. You can see deformation in the beading but theres definitely still protection there, and in florida, very nice.
The reason for the beading difference because the car was covered in overspray. It spends several hours per day parked at multiple body shops and gets clobbered with overspray. Otherwise, there would be not difference in beading.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
The reason for the beading difference because the car was covered in overspray. It spends several hours per day parked at multiple body shops and gets clobbered with overspray. Otherwise, there would be not difference in beading.
Aha! very cool man, my car got rained on today, and its dirty, beading was pretty good for a dirty car.

I cant wait to go nano, serious durability. I know this is stupid but id like to see how well a carnuba would stick to a nano coating, its shouldnt really, but it really shouldnt stick to sealants either and it does to some extent.
 
I cant wait to go nano, serious durability. I know this is stupid but id like to see how well a carnuba would stick to a nano coating, its shouldnt really, but it really shouldnt stick to sealants either and it does to some extent.
Wax and sealants will not bond/link to an Opti-Coated/Guarded surface. And I'm not a big fan of applying a wax over a sealant either. Just make sure your paint is 100% perfect prior to coating it or else it won't be much fun after.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Wax and sealants will not bond/link to an Opti-Coated/Guarded surface. And I'm not a big fan of applying a wax over a sealant either. Just make sure your paint is 100% perfect prior to coating it or else it won't be much fun after.
I like the idea of a wax/sealant but, i dont think it really works all that well, i think it gives the car a waxed look for a couple weeks but if you are using a sealant thats worth a damn then no wax should stick to it really.

And as far as surface prep, when i do go nano, im going to dawn wash first, then polish the paint using either 205/85rd or just 85rd. do a full Ipa wipedown to rid the paint of polish oils, dawn wash again, then use wolfs shine and seal with a blue uber pad, let that set up, buff, then follow with 2 coats of wolfs bodywrap. thats technically 3 layers of nano i should be good for a long long time. My car is my dd but it gets parked in a garage every night so its not outside 24/7.

Someone on Detailingbliss or here needs to do a big flat hood, tape it off and do a durability test with all the major nano coatings. Aquartz, Cquartz, Bodywrap, hardbody, opticoat, opticoat 2, ect. That would be a cool test to see which one holds up better and maintains beading/sheeting properties. The biggest reason im liking wolfs is because the application is really easy and their shine and seal makes paint prep a little more confident, and its layer-able. I really want the hardbody but im considering Opticoat 2, but the application seems a bit tricky
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I have to say, ive been doing alot of research on opti-coat 2....im becoming sold very quickly, its the only thing ive seen last a long time without any bead deformation. I know that water replusion isnt "officially" a sign of protection, but it definitely helps determine the freshness of the coating.

OC2 is definitely on my consideration list along with hardbody. The only thing that worries me is applying opticoat successfully without streaking.

How hard is the application process David? Knocking down the "highspots" us what worries me.
 
How hard is the application process David? Knocking down the "highspots" us what worries me.

Extremely easy. You'll be a pro after the 1st or 2nd panel. Have you ever used Opti-Seal? Very similar.

The key is to do the aplication in good lighting so you can see your work. Especially when doing the glass. I'm getting to the point on most applications where I have hardly no streaks. When you get one, just re-wipe the area and work it out. I prefer and avoid using a towel to remove the streaking when possible.
 
can you run through normal brush car washes without losing beading?
As much as you'd like until the abrasive friction of the brushes remove the coating. And that's about the only thing that could affect it....abrasive friction (polishing/compounding/sanding). It's pretty much impervious to most chemicals.
 
As much as you'd like until the abrasive friction of the brushes remove the coating. And that's about the only thing that could affect it....abrasive friction (polishing/compounding/sanding). It's pretty much impervious to most chemicals.
Wonder how long that would take? I spent time on detailing 3 family cars lol mustang will never go through a brush wash lol. Will touch less hurt nano coat over time as well?

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Wonder how long that would take? I spent time on detailing 3 family cars lol mustang will never go through a brush wash lol.
Depends on the car wash brushes/soft cloths and how clean they are. I'd say a long time under normal conditions. Especially for someone like you that doesn't use them. :)


Will touch less hurt nano coat over time as well?
If you're referring to the washes that use NO FRICTION, then no. It will not affect the Optimum Coating. Some car washes like to refer to their system as touchless, but many times it only means they are touching your car less.
 
I havent kept up with your thread but I can say my 3 coats of Wolf's Bodywarp is going well on my Mach, beading and sheeting is great and I am not using the nano bathe or nano quick detailer on it just basic TB washes or even just a snow foam wash, rinse and dry with my Masterblaster. I actually have something amazing to share I coated my girlfirends Scion TC like the 1st or 2nd of January with the original Carpro Cquartz not the new improved version and the beading/ sheeting of it is insane still like it was applied a day ago. I have only used Carpro Reload on it twice once about 4 months ago and another time this past week and I ran out ( I have to get some more but will get the Aquartz version from Phil). Just this week when I started to rinse it down prior to washing the sheeting and beading was insane I am really impresses by it. I only use Mothers soap or CG Maxisuds II on it to maintain it, not any special soaps as I would use on my ride but yet the coating hasnet even been affected one bit. Me and my girlfrend washed it in about 10 minutes wednesday and then rinsed it off and sheeted the water without a nozzle and dried it up the whole wash only took about 25 to 30 minutes from start to finish. It is one of the fast washes I have ever done and I have also noticed the paint is still very glossy and has very little swirls/ marrs on it. I have to say I am very impressed with Cquartz its lasted 7 months so far and I only wash my girlfrends TC about once a month or twice every month and a half, so when it comes to washing it its filthy.
 
could you put nano coating on underbody of car???? that would be sick!!
Sure anything is possible if you want to use aquartz or carpro reload but first degrease everything with something like zep purple scrub and pressure rinse repeat again then spray on the coating and wipe where you can with a cheap clean microfiber


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Discussion starter · #40 ·
Extremely easy. You'll be a pro after the 1st or 2nd panel. Have you ever used Opti-Seal? Very similar.

The key is to do the aplication in good lighting so you can see your work. Especially when doing the glass. I'm getting to the point on most applications where I have hardly no streaks. When you get one, just re-wipe the area and work it out. I prefer and avoid using a towel to remove the streaking when possible.
I'm down to this or a wolfs product, I like the hydrophobic tendency of wolfs but I really want scratch resistance, that's why I wanna try hardbody, which I think is the only wolfs product that's gonna rival OC2 in durability.


I havent kept up with your thread but I can say my 3 coats of Wolf's Bodywarp is going well on my Mach, beading and sheeting is great and I am not using the nano bathe or nano quick detailer on it just basic TB washes or even just a snow foam wash, rinse and dry with my Masterblaster. I actually have something amazing to share I coated my girlfirends Scion TC like the 1st or 2nd of January with the original Carpro Cquartz not the new improved version and the beading/ sheeting of it is insane still like it was applied a day ago. I have only used Carpro Reload on it twice once about 4 months ago and another time this past week and I ran out ( I have to get some more but will get the Aquartz version from Phil). Just this week when I started to rinse it down prior to washing the sheeting and beading was insane I am really impresses by it. I only use Mothers soap or CG Maxisuds II on it to maintain it, not any special soaps as I would use on my ride but yet the coating hasnet even been affected one bit. Me and my girlfrend washed it in about 10 minutes wednesday and then rinsed it off and sheeted the water without a nozzle and dried it up the whole wash only took about 25 to 30 minutes from start to finish. It is one of the fast washes I have ever done and I have also noticed the paint is still very glossy and has very little swirls/ marrs on it. I have to say I am very impressed with Cquartz its lasted 7 months so far and I only wash my girlfrends TC about once a month or twice every month and a half, so when it comes to washing it its filthy.
I do like wolfs products, I'm holding out for hardbody for the scratch resistance but I do like opticoat because of its durability and scratch resistance as well. I just love the way body wrap beads, I'm a bead whore for sure, Jessie from wolf says HB is more hydrophobic than BW. Phil should have it soon, I've been checking like every day lol. I just reapplied my petes 53 a week ago, changed my soap ratio and will be doing the first TB weekly wash tuesday to see if I get more durability this time. It rained today and the beading was PERFECT :)



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