Ported heads and cams for sure. I know gears don't add power but they do lower et's. Go with the 4.10's if staying N/A.

 

Trick Flow heads heard nothing but good things about them. People r getting really big gains from those heads.

As far as fuel systems try to get dual fuel pumps. They r more reliable than BAP's.

The only thing about the 5.4 is that it may sit alittle higher in the engine bay. Not sure but from youtube vids and other boards I always see post about having to swap hoods. Also if u plan to go that way just get a 4v swap will b easier.

 

The only time i would need the BAP is when i would spray it which is rarely so i think just a BAP will suit me fine.

 

Depends mostly on your budget, but starting from scratch on an N/A build........

I'd stick with an aluminum 4.6 (or BOSS for an extra 20 cubes if you are made of money). It will rev more freely and higher than a 5.4. Making power with these motors N/A is all about RPM. Aluminum will make for an 80 pound weight reduction all coming straight off the nose. Make sure to upgrade to the melling oil pump with billet gears.

Flat top pistons so you will be in the low 12:1 CR range with a 44-46cc chamber. Notching depends on whether you go with TFS or PI heads.

MMR's 600 is fine since you really don't need to worry about the crank at the power level you are working with. ARP head studs and main studs is debatable, but I upgraded to those since I had big power in mind down the road.

For heads, there are a lot of things to consider. For N/A, I don't see any reason not to go with the TFS heads if you can afford them. They have all around better design. They aren't prone to detonation as much as the PI head, they can handle a bit more timing, and right out of the box will flow more than you will ever need for a street car. They also come upgraded with longer spark plug thread holes, a thicker deck, better guides, better/bigger valves, high lift/load springs, and more flow. If you are on a budget, then I would send your stock heads out to get re-worked. Fox Lake, MMR, MHS, and many others all do good portwork on the PI head. I know stage 1 port job from Fox Lake is $599 with new seals and a valve job included....same with MMR. The stage 2 work jumps up a bit to $750 for MMR and $900 for Fox Lake. I think MHS will just take $150 off the price of their outright price if you send them your heads. You might want to talk to SWEET2KSTANG......I know he is doing some headwork now that has shown some really good flow numbers. I don't know how his prices compare to the competition, but you might want to get in touch with him and see what he charges for a set of ported heads.

For cams, it depends on you head choice a lot. If you go with TFS heads, you might want to think about throwing in a set of more aggressive cams in there to take advantage of the newly found piston to valve clearance. You can still run a better cam with a ported PI head if you have the pistons notched before assembly.

Intake manifold really depends on heads/cams and your target rpm range. Staying at 7,000 and below, might as well just keep the stock plastic PI manifold. If you are going to rev 7500+ then start looking into the TFS or Edelbrock Vr. Jr. manifolds.

 

Think about a 3v swap. Seriously. heads can flow up to 300cfm and more cam options. Theres guy making up to 340 to the wheels without head work.

 

I just built my motor, still breaking it in actually. I was also looking for good N/A HP, going to get it dyno'd soon, hoping for atleast 320 rwhp. If you want to see every detail you can go to my garage. To sum it up quickly:

600hp shortblock- cast crank, forged rods, -10cc notched pistons, cobra oil pump (10.5:1 Comp.)
MHS Stage 2 P.I. Heads w/600" lift springs
MHS Stage 3 N/A Cams
Full Exhaust (LT's, O/R H-Pipe, LM1's)
CAI, 70mm TB, UPR Plenum
Stock Intake Manifold


I wasn't sure about what Cams to use as well and called MHS and talked to Nick a few times for advice, was planning on using stock heads but came across some money for heads, still couldn't afford Trickflow heads though. I had thought about doing a 3valve swap as well but decided it wasn't worth it for me.

 

I read an article about TFS twisted wedge heads for 2v... not only does it add 30 more hp over CNC ported heads, but they changed the valves around for more valve lift clearence so they can take a bigger cam, more oiling ports for higher rpm engines, and they made a new way to hold the cams down so it's easier changing cams if need be... TFS really had the hard core racer in mind when they made them. a lot of people are using them on the 5.0 mod 2v blocks and getting crazy power and reliability. thats the way I'm gonna go when it's time.

 

a 600 hp 4v or 3v is cool, but a 600hp 2v is impressive!!

 

If you're staying n/a and getting a new rotating assembly, why not go stroker? There's no replacement for displacement and an extra 20 inches will make it easier to hit that 320 mark. Some good heads, all supporting mods, you should be there easy. I had the same hp goal as you when I started my build last year. It's creeping along but by summer I'll have it buttoned back up.

 

If and when I rebuild mine, I'm going for the TrickFlow Twisted Wedge heads for sure with LT's. I know the shorty's I have on there now are hurting my flow.

Also don't forget to go with the Mezeire electric waterpump, that's suppose to give you some extra HP.

HellSperm I'm interested in what kind of numbers you get.

 

So for a head choice i would be better off selling my cams and springs or just sell my heads with the cams in them and buy either a MHS head and CMS cam combo deal from Cushmanmotorsports or a trickfllow heads and get some better cams?

 

I think the Trickflow heads are the way to go with their Bullit intake.

 

On the shortblock what do i need to get extra? A better oil pump and what all else? Coated pistons, headstuds, ARP rod bolts, MMR side block bolts, new timing chain or guides, do i need any of these extras? im thinking about just ordering a Trick Flow 38CC top end kit ( Trick Flow Specialties TFS-K519-390-375 - Trick Flow® Twisted Wedge® Top-End Engine Kits for Ford 4.6L 2V - Overview - SummitRacing.com )with either a track heat lower intake or Victor JR along with a MMR 600 shortblock.

 

I'd give Mike a shot at the short block (he'll be doing mine), just a though....

Home Page

 

Damn I wish ac miller still came on. I'm pretty sure he made rite around 340whp na with his. Pm Cameron or whatever his screen name is with the black gt with the termie swap. He bought ac's motor after ac did a swap.

 

I have done my research with MHS and they have outstanding reviews. Im damn near set on there stage 2 turbo cams/heads kit for like 2300 bucks assembled i think is what it was.

If there N/A cam/head combo is getting the same review and credit that thier turbo cam/head kit is (wouldnt see why not) then i would stick with MHS mostly because it cuts out alot of stuff you gotta worry about which gives you more time and possibly money to concentrate on other things. MHS for sure

 

I know you'd like to stay at 281, but in the most recent issue of 5.0 Mustang, they had an article on a 2v 02 GT that made 363 rwhp 327 lb/ft with a D.S.S 5.0 SuperMOD stroker shortblock, TFS Twisted Wedge Heads, Anderson Ford Motorsports N-22 Cams, Power Pipe and Abaco DBX 97B programable mass-air meter, along with the typical bolt ons. Pretty impressive if you ask me. This isn't the EXACT shortblock used for the build I'm referring to, as the one in the article was setup for a KB in the future, but this should produce similar results I'd think, http://www.dssracing.com/product_p/lvl%2010%204.6%20modular%20ford.htm

Not a bad price either.

Not sure what your budget would be, but thats my suggestion. Good luck.

 

AFM's cams are wicked with the trickflow heads... as the numbers show. If I was going to stay N/a I'd run with that set up

 

dont sell your heads and cams, just send them if you have another car to Nick at the modular head shop. Or have him send you some then send yours back for cores.

Not tryin to break sponsor rules etc, but get a price for a short block then shoot me a pm, where I work we specialize in modular cars and have some pretty wicked builds out there.

Everything above is all great advice. compression is the biggest thing to making N/A power and even helps out more with the juice.

studs on the mains/heads great insurance, arp rod bolts almost law on the modular. If you want to pony up the extra coin the aluminum block is like adding 40hp with the weight savings, always a bonus.

if you arent goin to spin crazy rpms, then a stock or cobra pump will be plenty on the flow. Wouldnt hurt to upgrade the gears inside and when the pump is open, debur the factor casting flash/slag.

 

What's the good and bad of going to a 5.0 or 5.4? On MMR's site the 5.4's are cheaper than the 4.6's, why is that?

 

nothin wrong with a 5.4, you just HAVE to make sure the rods are quality rods. The intake options are a little limited, HPS makes a great one, and finding long tubes to work is the tough spot, either custom made or find someone who had some and got out of the game. a 11.5 or so 5.4 with good ported heads, nice cams and the juice, hold on to your **** hole, its gonna pucker something fierce

 

good question? that bored out (4.7425345423453L something) lol on mmr's site is a good price. look into the laway program... just sayin. like the other guy on here was sayin though the mod motors are rpm happy and thats when the 4.6 will shine

 

Sorry for the lack of detail in my questions its just i do not know enough about a build to know what to ask. On the 5.0 stroker or the 5.4 block do you need to rev them high to make power or since they are a bigger motor you dont need to rev them as high as a 281?

 

for the power your looking I wouldn't think rpms will be an issue with any of your options.

I would stick with a 4.6 aluminum block myself though.

 

will depend on the cams/heads/compression ratio. 5.4's can be spun, just gotta put the good parts in the bottom end. 5.0 stroker will also spin just like a 4.6

 

My funds limited me to a iron block stroked 4.6. Even just doing that set me back a pretty penny. It could be done cheaper but I went with all new parts. As for spinning the motor up, I shift at 7K. It could be higher but I have other limiting factors. With an after market intake, big cams, and the trick flows, it really pulls hard from about 3800- 7000 rpms. I couldn't be happier with it. 11.5:1 compression on it and juice makes for one fun pull.