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oil inside cop boot

1.4K views 31 replies 4 participants last post by  whitelightening00  
#1 ·
Well...my friend and I have been chasing down his misfire issue with help from you guys so I wanna say thank you 1st. But we finally got around to pulling the cop's. For the most part they all looked good,no cracks or anything just a little dirty. Until we get to the cop on the driver side closest to the fire wall. Idk which one cylinder that is but we pulled the cop as soon as it came all the way out it maybe dripped 2 dots of oil. I pulled the boot of the cop and looked inside of it and it had maybe a film of oil inside of it. I could tap the spring on my hand and a little oil came off that also. So what is the culprit of this. Head gasket??? Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance
 
#3 ·
So how do we fix that. His car had a misfire in may of last year but it cleared itself and it drove fine since then. He didn't drive it for the whole month of October 2012 and when he went to drive it after a month of sitting and just going out to let it run a little...is when it started misfiring and didn't stop.
 
#5 ·
I was just curious about the plug blowout...... I've heard rumors of oil seeping through parting lines in the casting but have yet to see this firsthand. Remove the boot, clean and replace it. The better solution is to replace the plug, install a new boot and spring wire.
 
#7 ·
Yes it would absolutely be better to replace them all. The COP may be fine, if it is a boot and spring wire will fix it. It also may not be fine. Crap shoot if its been a long ongoing misfire as it could've burned the COP up. If you buy one from Ford it will come with the boot and spring wire, yes.
 
#9 ·
There are plenty of other people that are knowledgeable enough on here...... i'm glad to help though.
 
#10 ·
I'm thinking changing the valve cover gasket wouldn't hurt at the same time. You could be getting oil from a bad seal.
 
#12 ·
No just gotta remove the fuel rail and move any wires/vacuum lines and pull the valve cover off and replace gasket. But what i would do is check for a leak, see if any oil has been running down the back of the motor.
 
#13 ·
When looking at it...it was like 13 bolts that holds the valve cover on. It didn't look like I needed to remove the fuel rail but that would probably make it easier. So that's how you change the vc gasket but what about the seal that's causing oil to get on the plug
 
#17 ·
Thanks for the info guy. Were going to be doing the job our self seeing as it wouldn't be to difficult. Now when putting on the new gasket we put the sealant on the vc and the read before putting it on or just the vc. And also whats a good sealant to use.
 
#18 ·
Permatex ultra gray or GM Gray Sealant.

The only place you need to put any is where the timing cover meets the head (that means two places per side).
 
#19 ·
You'll have fun getting the driver side valve cover off, but it is possible, I promise.
 
#24 ·
Yes, only at the split between the timing cover and the head.
 
#30 ·
Hey I seen you comment on another thread about blown out spark plugs. I definety dnt want that. I've never used a torque wrench before. Aren't there different one's that go to a certain amount of torque...if that makes sense. What do I torque the plugs too.
 
#31 ·
You set the torque wrench to the torque spec. If I recall Cliff said it's like 15 lb-ft. There's certainly nothing wrong with torqueing to spec..... I don't do it. I've always done it by feel, that's not necessarily the right way but that's how I do it. You don't want to tighten them down til they break in half, but you also don't want to not tighten them enough that they back out.