Hell man the 2v is starting to become outdated technology. Even a heavily modded 2v will have trouble with a lightly modded 5.0 or ls3. You do realize that by the time you buy ported heads (which aren't a must just because your doing cams) springs, cams, new cam bolts, etc you will be in the $2000 range right? Then if your paying for labor you might as well tach on another $1000. Those 270s must be degreed, no way around it. I piece my intercooler blower setup together for $2000 ready to go. It will make 100 rwhp more with 10psi than a h/c 2v. Also I forgot to mention the tune which will usually run $550 depending on the area. You will need a tune for both setups. Personally I would skip head and cams and go straight to some type of power adder.

 

Agreed. Stage 3 cams alone aren't worth it. You'll gain about 20 or so in HP, VS 100+ HP for about the same money with a power adder.

 

Another thing Id like to add is to throw in a set of gears too. I have 3.73s and my 02 is quick for a 2v.

Honestly I wouldnt say the 2v is outdated its just a small bore v8 and now with everyone on the coyote bandwagon nobody wants to mod these motors. Our motors were new once but newer and better technology will always trump yesterdays technology. You jump on ship and go with something faster, tomorrow something faster will come out. Keep in mind 2 things:

Theres always going to be faster than you

Any car can be fast with enough boost

 

I did cams because me engine was out and had the cash. Plus I already have my power adder (nitrous).

I'm not against cams, but you do need to weight your options as far as price for the gain.

I'm glad I did cams...I was already replacing the cam followers, lash adjusters, and springs so I threw in cams anyway. To add to my decision is that my car is mostly N/A all the time...the spray is mostly for the track...

I do not have a dyno tune yet...I'm leaning towards buying the software and tuning it myself but I have not made a final decision.

 

If you really want an NA build to be different then I'd say go for HCI, but I myself along with 90 percent of people on this forum are going to suggest boost first because of the obvious hp/cost comparison. If you get stage 3 NA cams and later decide to do boost you're going to lose out on a lot of power; alternatively you could buy a supercharger or turbo kit first for around the same price and buy a cam later to round off your gains.

 

Well i am being charged $750 to port my heads and install the cams. The cams will cost me around $400 or $500. The thing is that down here in deep south texas, i wont be able to find a good priced supercharger without spending around 4 or 5k ..

 

That's a good deal if you can get it done for that cheap installed in the vehicle, or are you taking the heads off yourself

 

Honestly man. Skip all the porting and what not, get your self a used blower kit and a set of blower cams and call it a day.

With a "stage 3" or large cam like that it will attempt to draw more air then a stock head can provide causing an awful amount of power loss and surging. Its going to have a reverse scavenging effect in a way. Also porting heads IMO is best left to someone that knows 2v heads and has a flow bench to make sure all ports flow the same.

I know a guy that has a vette with hand ported heads that hadn't been flow tested and hes had nothing but issues on the dyno with it.

Like I said before, better off with a mild to medium blower cam and a used blower setup. 400+ rwhp in these cars are a lot of fun. Dont forget all these newer cars weight quite a bit more then our cars now do.

 

If you are doing heads and cams, i do not see it being worth it unless you are trying to Spray the car and race it at the drag strip. Jay ran tens with a H/C/I and spray i want to say

 

JayC ran 10s with CMS stage 2s and 150 shot. Other than that it stock besides boltons.

---------- Post added at 08:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:39 AM ----------

Personally I would let Bama tune anything besides a Bolton car. I've seen the logs and read them over very good on a couple of there FI cars and I wasn't impressed at all. That's my opinion on them. Some may say otherwise but the tunes a free for life for a reason. You can most certainly piece together a blower kit for $2500 easy. I bought most of my stuff off corral.

 

I have decided I am going to get a Bama tuner with the custom tunes for life. I dont think i will need a dyno. Supposedly AM supports cammed tunes. I am only undecided about either using the race or performance tune. I will for sure be using 93 octane fuel though. I read that some people have issues with the race tune..

 

I liked my Bama tunes when I was only bolt ons. I always switched to the stock tune when I was wanting spray my nitrous.

I now have a wideband and Comp Cams XE268H cams and still running my Bama tune...it's filthy rich at WOT (11.0-11.3 AFR). I do not know if it was that rich on stock cams but I can only assume it probably was. I plan on either getting a dyno tune or tuning it myself. I can't decide nor can I spend the money (buying a house and closing soon). I'm just waiting it out. It runs perfectly fine on the Bama tune it's just not dialed in.

For bolt ons/stock-ish car their tunes should be fine.

 

If I could go back many years I would have skipped all the bolt on and pieced together a blower kit which I am doing now. It's really the way to go on these cars. You can't beat or deny the gains going FI

 

I am experiencing issues with my bama x3 tuner. Well i was able to load up the 93 race tune and my car seems to stay stuck on 1st gear and will not shift into 2nd at all no matter how high the rpms go. I even tried to shift it into 2nd manually with no luck. I drive an automatic. Even tried the 93 street tune and still the same issue. Only option i adjusted was the axle ratio for my 373s. Even tried the tune without modifying the axle ratio and still no luck. Switching back to the stock tune fixes the issue. Perhaps i need a custom tune??

 

I will say my car na ran 12.20's at the track. Look at the et list and find stock shortblock guys with superchargers doing that. Red light to red light the na car will be quicker.

 

Not the serious ones :lol.

 

Did you tell them its an auto? The tranny is electronically controlled and if they didnt account for it in the tune it wont do anything.

 

I have not tried loading a custom tune. Only loaded the 93 race tune that comes with the tuner already. I am not a member of the free tunes for life at the moment.

 

Just ordered a custom tune for all my mods. I was not asked whether my car is an automatic or manual though?

 

There you go, generic tunes cant cater to everyone and your tranny is electronically controlled so it most likely isnt accounted for. And yes it should have asked you if its auto or stick. Did you follow the link on the email or did you just put it in the cart and buy it? Itll send an email with a link that will ask you multiple questions about your car.

 

There was no link in the order recieved email. Just the order number which i needed in order to request my custom tune. I was asked a serious of questions about my car and its mods but nothing asking if it was an auto or stick.. i made sure and let them know tho in an additional message.

---------- Post added at 08:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:06 PM ----------

I am gonna try adjusting the shift points myself for each gear. What are the best options for each of my gears? I believe i read 6500 is where the peak power is at, except for 1st. Back to my issue.. my RPMs go up so slow. Not the way its supposed to be after the tune at all.

---------- Post added at 08:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:34 PM ----------

Also i am running 373s.

 

If you dont know what youre doing then dont do it. I highly suggest returning it to stock and calling bama to get it squared away. You WILL mess something up otherwise.

 

The tune i received from BAMA was ass, my car pulled harder on the 87 street tune than 93 race tune. Also the idle was weird when coming to a stop the car would drop rpm to about 550ish.

 

Im not defending bama but Ive had a few tunes from them for my 00 gt and 07 gt and they were all great.

Now, Im a little confused by your post op. You say it doesnt ask you if its an auto or manual and you didnt get a link in your email. You should get an email saying order recieved, order approved, then an email from bama with a link to their website. Once you get there, itll ask for your order number and ecu code. The ecu code should tell them if its auto or stick but I thought it asked you on the page with all the questions, I dont remember. Did you call them to try and get it all squared away?

 

Something is definitely not right here. As soon as i started using 93 octane my car has been really sputtering and hesitating. Also i can smell raw fuel. It did not ask me on the page with all the questions if it is an auto or stick. I have already tried calling and calling and they never answer, always says to just leave a message and they will contact me back.

 

The transmission can be determined by the code on the computer in your passenger side kick panel of I remember correctly which is why they ask this code.

I called and asked the same question when I got their tune for Xmas.

I run 93 race with no issues from them

 

This was all I was able to find when searching for that ecu code. Had to use a random one i saw on google without making sure if it was for an auto or stick.. i have not loaded the custom tune yet tho. By the way i am also receiving code P0705 Transmission range sensor circuit malfunction (PRNDL) input. This can probably be causing my issue? Even on the stock tune sometimes i have to manually put it onto 2nd geae cause it stays stuck on 1st. But after the tune it wont go into 2nd not even manually.

 

So its been staying in 1st with the stock, canned and custom tunes? Im kind of confused here.

Did you use a code you googled for your custom tune through bama? You absolutely need to take off the passanger side kick panel to get the code off your computer. Bama needs that code.

Ok so if I get you, the transmission has been doing this on all three tunes and has gotten worse. My guess is either the transmission range sensor or the shifter linkage needs to be adjusted. Does it sometimes not start at all until you mess with the shifter or is the shifter aligned to the right gear on the selector?

 

Sorry i completely forgot to upload the picture but here it is. That is all I was able to find. I removed the passenger side kick panel and it was there. I searched all around the passenger and driver side and found nothing. But as for the tranny issue, yes it does it on all 3 tunes. On the stock tune i am able to shift it manually onto 2nd. But not on the canned tune. The canned tunes are the ones that come with the tuner correct? When i first loaded up the 93 race tune, it literally just stays on 1st with the RPMs going up very very slowly, ths car barely speeds up. And it will not go into 2nd no matter what, even if i red line it or try shifting it onto 2nd manually it still will not go into 2nd. Did the same on the 93 street tune.

 

I have no issues turning on the car and yes i do have to shifter aligned to the right gear lol

 

The computer will have a 4 digit on the front of it, like with my 00 gt the ecu code was KPL0. It was on a sticker on the front of it (not the side with the wiring harness). If need be Ill take a pic of mine in my 02 gt for reference. Yes a canned tune is the ones on the tuner.

As far as the shifter not lining up, I dont mean like do you have it in the wrong gear but like if you put it in drive but its really in neutral or 2nd ya know. Didnt mean to sound condensending lol.

 

I hate to sound like such a noob man but i honestly have no idea where exactly the computer is and what you are referring to as the front if it lol. If you can upload a pic for me that would be great! And yes i know what you mean now, my shifter somewhat isnt normal. It feels loose, it wont really make that clicking sound when i put it on D for example. I can easily shift it by accident and its happened before. I dont even need to press the button to shift it. I am assuming it is related to the transmission range sensor also.