Just a size smaller socket. Tap it on there. You'll ruin the socket but should be able to be a tight enough fit that ya can get some torque and break the bolt free.

 

happened to me too...on my mach 1...bad part was, the nut was about half way down the stud.





took a hack-saw blade (just the blade) wrapped the end up with some duct tape (for comfort reasons) and began sawing away through the slot between the body and k-member. it took a good hour but that stupid little bastard was off. nothing else worked either, i tried hammering another socket on there, i bought those damaged nut remover sockets and everything. the issue is there is no room to get up in there, unless you take out the starter but that only alleviates some of the problem of being too cramped!

 

Well unfortunately for you if its stuck to the point that you are breaking tools to get it off likely the threads are messed up as well and its all going to be ugly if you can get it off. How did you round it, what size socket were you using? If I were you I would source a die for the exhaust stud, make sure its all cleaned up before trying to put the new nut on.

 

It's a michigan car and the previous owner drove it through the winters here... salt + steel = welded on rust... I was using a 15mm wrench and a swivel... I am currently going with the hacksaw method... but I can't seem to get at a good angle to start the cuts... how in the hell did you cut your bolt?

 

I use these sockets to remove rounded nuts, Works like a charm.

i'm not gonna sit here and say it was easy lol...i did have a few screwed up threads where the nut locked up on the stud. it was near the top (where it would meet with the flange) i got a brass nut and put that on there 1st...its soft so it will work with chewed up threads. i put a regular nut on behind it then just for piece of mind. no leaks/no issues since and my midpipe has met the pavement a few times (my car is on H&R SS w/no iso's. stupid low!) also, you will need a hammer and a small flat bar/longer screw driver. once the 1st cut was done, i smacked the nut a few times to spin it a little to get the 2nd cut started. like i said, not easy...you can see i chewed all the paint off the body and it took a few blades and cutting oil. i also tried the sockets above but they just royally fugged up the nut. if you dont get them on straight and cant apply pressure, they wont grab/hold on to the nut.

 

I use these sockets to remove rounded nuts, Works like a charm.

 

I have given up... my patience is very limited and before I do something really stupid I just gave up... I am going to call around to a few shops around here and see if they will just remove the nut for me so I can get on with this mid pipe install

 

Mine was stuck for two days. Rounded it off too. Finally took it to my buddies garage and got it on a lift. Gave me enough leverage to use a bolt out to bite into it. Now I bought a mid length socket from snap on for future mid pipe exchanges. I would recommend anyone changing midpipes to pick up a mid length socket before you start and save a major headache. Good luck.

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I'm currently at a shop and they are telling me that ours going to take them probably two hours...

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Well if it gets ****ed it should be on them...check the threads with a new bolt before you leave. Have them rethread if fked while you there lol. Good luck.

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Shops normally make their estimates higher so they don't under shoot ya on cost. Let it get done right so ya don't need to worry about it

 

The shop got that damn nut off and they even had a hard time with it... It took the guy an hour to get it off. Got it home jacked it up and finally got to rip out the old h-pipe and throw in the Mac o/r prochamber that's been sitting on my garage floor for 3 days. It's all hooked up and it sounds mean when you get on it. I was like a kid on christmas when I stepped on the gas for the first time lol. Thanks to all who chimmed in and gave some tips...

 

How far are you from Chicago? Hell, I'm trying to remove my prochamber on the passenger side because I have an exhaust leak where it bolts up to the header, can't get enough leverage to get the bolts free though. I'm going to borrow my dad's impact to get it off. But reason I ask is I have a metrinch set. Get a pic of the bolt for me, these metrinchs can remove rounded bolts as long as they aren't too far gone. They grip the flat sides rater than the corners, so it's practically impossible to strip a bolt with them (I can testify to that). Maybe we can work on our prochambers together :gayfight2:

---------- Post added at 03:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:27 PM ----------

Never mind, I see you got it off.

---------- Post added at 03:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:27 PM ----------



Yes, prochambers sound like sex on the beach minus the gritty sand.

 

A couple hours at least from Chicago... I have it all hooked up but I do have and exhaust leak on the passenger side at the header too... I don't want to have to get back under there but I will because it's already driving me crazy... As far as the nuts the only one that i had a problem with was the bottom passenger nut at the header flange. The top one was a pita but with swivel joints, extensions and a **** ton of patience I was able to get that one off. The other two came out easy as hell and that was the first time that they have been removed.

 

Prochamber is def my next investment after these gears get installed. I loved the sound of it when I had my 01. Need gears install prochamber and handheld to correct those two latest additions!

 

DO IT! Prochamber sounds mean as hell on my mach, even with the stock catback.

 

I've got lm2 for my catback currently so prochamber pry be nice addition to those! Better start lubing those bolts now so I don't have to have them cut off!!! Haha

 

I have the lm1s and it's a good match up i think.... The only bolt i really had a problem with were three passenger side ones because u have to use a swivel joint and it's a pita to get it at a good angle...

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I'm glad to hear you two have SLP. I'm torn between LM1s or LM2s. I feel like the car will be too loud with the LM1s. Do you guys have exhaust clips on youtube or something? And how's the fitment?

 

I have the lm1s and it's a good match up i think.... The only bolt i really had a problem with were three passenger side ones because u have to use a swivel joint and it's a pita to get it at a good angle...

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The lm2s sound good. Fit is wonderful. Bolts right up no problems.

 

Fitment is great and if you're lowered there is absolutely no clearance issues. It can be loud when it you want it to be but as for the most part it just sounds like a good old fashioned muscle car. I haven't had the opportunity to get a video up but I will as soon as I can get the chance.

 

so did you get a chance to see what the shop did to get that stupid nut off??? there's always more than one way to skin a cat...wondering how they went about it ?

 

Somewhat... they wouldn't let me in the garage area so I just stood at the door and watched them... they ended up removing my starter for more room and at first tried to heat it up and cool it down then tried to pound a smaller socket on it but that didn't get him really anywhere. Then after about a half hour or so of trying that he brought at his air chisel and eventually got the thing to spin free. I never realized how unnerving it is to watch someone else pound at your car... It was like watching someone spank my child right in front of me. lol