Modded Mustang Forums banner

Start from scratch .PUN intended.

5K views 62 replies 12 participants last post by  stangpride04  
#1 ·
Well it's been a fun two weeks. Got a new heater put in the barn, tarped off the work area, got the old turtle wax junk stripped off. Man all the hard work down the drain. Starting the clay and correction in a few hours.

This will be a correction thread using strictly chemical guys 36 and 38 followed by some sort of fine polish. Car isn't in bad enough shape for 34. Haven't decided if I will use blacklight, wet mirror finish, or their fine polish. Maybe a combo? However once I have 105, 205, and menz 4500 I will do a side by side to show some comparison.

Don't know whether to be :woot or :banghead after this order.....

Either way:
New microfibers and foam applicator pads.
LC hyrdo pads. I'm fond of them despite how easily the cyans get used up. Spent $50 and got 6 pads, 2 of each (cyan tang and crim) That's a normal$12 a pad
Picked up 1 pinnacle wheel cleaner, got one free.. just can't get enough of it. I highly recommend it.
UWW+ (concentrated)
XXX.
CG carnuba QD, WET MIRROR FINISH, the V.R.P dressing, landed a free sample of deep gloss sealant, and lastly...
I'll be giving Dodo juice IRON GLOSS a run. Thanks to modded and his seductive detailing-obsessed ways there will be a nice little review of that compared to deep gloss sealant in the near future.

Side note my investment to date is a tad over $600. *Should have bought long tubes and an o/r x pipe :lol Now I have a nice assortment of products across the board. As well as a nice range of nuba's. Will def help selling with different clients' needs. Now the focus will be maintaining a supply of the products that yield the best results as well as keeping up with the necessary tools. Thanks to the ACC and the experienced for all their help in this obsession
 
#2 ·
Car is clayed, grabbing lunch and taking a break to stop at the gym. Then I will be taping it up for fun stuff

Glasur showed up today. +1 to AA for shipping quick and free!

Pics to follow!
 
#7 ·
Well guys finished up on the hood a few hours ago. Had a few things come up so didn't get the whole hood done. So instead I focused on doing reviews, combos, and break downs. Few deep scratches didn't come out but for a first time correction I am very pleased and happy with how well the v cuts, polishes, and finishes. SON1C I have a nice 36/BL combo for you and Modded there's a glasur application in here as well. All I can say is I'm thrilled. Pics might be up late late tonight, if not tomorrow morning.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Again ran outta time to finish the hood tonight because the jeep wouldn't start. Crank position sensor is whacked. :facepalm:

Here are the pics.
Products used:
Mother's clay bar. (Clayed and dried twice). Could have went 3 and most likely will on the rest of the car. Used the plastic bag test to check for contaminants.
Griot's DA 6''
Hydro foam pads
-Cyan (cuting) v36. speed 6. (6 passes)
-Tangerine (polishing) v38. speed 6 ( 6 passes)
-Crimson (finishing) Black light speed 3. (3 passes) 1 coat. 3 pea sized drops did the whole driver's half of the hood. Waited 15 mins before buffing out.
Pete's 53 applied with foam applicator (2 layers) buffed out with MF by hand
Zymol Glasur applied by bare hand. Amazing technique by the way. Like having sex for the first time again lol (2 layers) buffed out with an MF.

Beginning pic, just taped up and clayed.
Left to right. (36, 38, BL glasur). (36, 38, BL Pete's). (36, BL, Pete's).
Image


Close up
Image


Image


Image


Sooooo many swirls
Image


The large scratch here sort of came out by the end of correction. Seems to be quite deep? any thoughts?
Image


After with 36
Image

Image

Image



After 38
Image


Image


Image


Here's an after 36 and BL for sonic's viewing pleasure. If I spent more time on it I think it would have taken these scratches out but again I'm still learning. I thought I had a pic of a second pass, guess not.
Image


Close up after 38 (Black light does clean these panels up some)
Image

Image


Admiring the job so far
Image


After BL
Image


Image


Image


Image


Pic here shows a good 50/50 of a corrected vs uncorrected panel. HUGE difference and pleased with the products so far.
(Close up)
Image


Same pic from a tad farther

Image


And a few more steps back

Image


All waxed up
Image


Close up of halogen
Image


Image


Like glass :)

Image


Top shot. All are pretty close
I feel like with a finer polish and a sealer or better glaze might help separate the pete's from glasur. I like how clear the reflection of the tarp is on the glasur panel.

Image



Kind of blurry but you get the point
So long Turtle wax! And auto zone... :wave

Image


Corrected

Image


Not corrected

Image



In closing, I really enjoyed how tough 36 was and how it worked with the hydro pads. Not terrible on dust either. Is this good or bad? Also product came off with little to no elbow grease. Leads me to believe I used the correct amount and effectively worked the surface with each. Couldn't be happier with the results for a first timer.

Advice and constructive criticism encouraged.
 
#11 ·
Man I really appreciate the info! I have 34 but was afraid of using it I didn't want to do too much damage being my learning curve.. It is my understanding that the newer clears are some what harder than the new edge paints? I will def look into BNS pads. Detailers club have them? I will use 34, 36, 38 steps on the other half of the hood and compare. Would like to see 4500 in action in person but I think I will learn to love 34, 36, 38 just as much as the 105,205,4500 combo. Those products are on the list. I can always experiment with them on a spot like the spoiler or decklid. And thanks man. HAve a TON of work to do. 30 outside and 60 in the shop today. So I was a happy camper. Yes hand waxing is very zen like.... just glad no one else was in there with me :shiftyeyes lol.. Sunday after church will be the next full day of correction on the other half of the hood. Excited to see what the 34 can do. Going to try turning off the over head lights and just use the halogen lamps. Try to practice getting the eye for removing these bastard marks all over my car. I could slap the guy I bought it from. but yes... 'merica :usa
 
#12 ·
Yes the newer cars clears are a little harder. But v36 isnt fully correcting so you need to step up your polish or pad. My personal recommendation is v34/m105 on an Orang BnS pad. You wont "damage" your paint. When you use v34 w/your cyan pad, use moderately firm pressure on high speed for the first 2-4 passes, then back the speed off a couple notches and easy up on the presure for the remaining working time. Then follow with 36 and 38. I like to always start on high speed (5-6) even with my medium and final polishes because it helps correct the buffing marks from the previous polish, then easy up on the speed and help the polish finish out and refine its own marks.

And yes DC has BnS pads for a great price, hell even the Autoality price is good- around 26 bucks for 5pk with your 10% off. And they ship free.

i havent messed around too much with v38 on my mach 1 yet, but i want to to see how it compares against sf4500-which is amazing.

When/how and at what dilution are you using IPA? You should be IPAing after each polish to eliminate the oils left behind to reveal what marks are left uncorrected and help determine how well your polish is doing its job. You should also use it before applying an LSP as it will aid HUGELY in the LSP bonding to the surface.
 
#13 ·
Looking good man. Hope the BL works out. I'm still skeptical about BL from what I have heard.
 
#15 ·
Blacklight is like a super glaze that is slightly durable, i wouldnt use it as a stand alone LSP but it works really well if you use it on your paint then top it with a wax. I also think it would do ok on top of a good sealant. Its really for boosting reflection/gloss and enhancing color.

@ modded.. Other half is clayed. Ready for the 34, 36, 38 and BL combo tomorrow. I will take the BnS pads into consideration but I really like how well the hydro foam pads clean up. I wash them by hand using a tough brush, hot water, and a tad bit of dawn. Rinse very thoroughly. Also I will pick up the IPA tomorrow after church and will wipe down before each step. What should I use to wipe it off with? Rinse? re-wash? and what is a safe dilution?

@ Blink, As far the hand vs machine application of BL. I like how the DA spreads it and works it in. I'd probably stick to that. Would like to see how well it does next to WET MIRROR or EZ CREME. My CG and AG orders should be here tues. My schedule changed up at work too so I'm off evenings and weekends. BOOM bankers hours.!
BnS pads clean SUPER well, you can just use dawn and your hands, message it in and rinse, done.

Use IPA with a Short nap microfiber, you dont rinse it, it evaporates off the paint. A safe dilution for IPA is 10-25% so if you buy 91%IPA and dilute your IPA with distilled water @ 1 part IPA to 4 parts water, youll end up with 18.2% IPA which will be effective and safe. (Just take how many ounces of fluid your designated bottle holds and divide that number by 5, thats how many ounces of IPA to put into the bottle, then fill it the rest of the way with distilled)

Example: 16oz bottle- 16/5 = 3.2oz of IPA in your 16oz bottle, which is 1:4.

The IPA will help dissolve the oils left behind by the polish, the oils can cover up defects/buffing marks and you want to uncover them so that you know youve corrected Everything.

Get 2 bottles of 91% and a Gallon of distilled water and use a clean empty bottle ( i use an empty CG bottle, love their bottles)

PS. I would use Blacklight on a machine for 2 reasons, number 1: youll allow the micro abrasives to work alot better on a DA and help work the product into the paint. #2 Using a machine means using ALOT less product because the pad soaks up the product to the point where you dont have to keep applying more BL to the pad as much and the DA lays it down alot thinner.
 
#14 ·
@ modded.. Other half is clayed. Ready for the 34, 36, 38 and BL combo tomorrow. I will take the BnS pads into consideration but I really like how well the hydro foam pads clean up. I wash them by hand using a tough brush, hot water, and a tad bit of dawn. Rinse very thoroughly. Also I will pick up the IPA tomorrow after church and will wipe down before each step. What should I use to wipe it off with? Rinse? re-wash? and what is a safe dilution?

@ Blink, As far the hand vs machine application of BL. I like how the DA spreads it and works it in. I'd probably stick to that. Would like to see how well it does next to WET MIRROR or EZ CREME. My CG and AG orders should be here tues. My schedule changed up at work too so I'm off evenings and weekends. BOOM bankers hours.!
 
#16 ·
Really nice work for your first time. I wish my investment was only $600. I have well over $3k over the past year or so iirc. I would have to tally up my receipts :lol
 
#21 ·
Modded I sent you the paypal last night. :baller:

Also here's the latest addition to the stangpride collection. Pretty excited to the DJ Iron Gloss :naughty: I also got a free sample of the deep gloss.

Image
 
#22 ·
Your Fuzion shipped today sir, should be there tuesday. :)

PS. Already spent your money at DC :facepalm: lol

Glasur is on sale at Zymol, probably ordering that next week.
 
#23 ·
Thanks again man! im stoked to pair it with these sealers and see which one I enjoy best.

So here are some thoughts on the new products.
Wet mirror- better than black light. Deeper reflection and slicker but idk how long it will last.

Iron gloss- pricey but great. A little Spreads a long way. Very slick. Very deep gloss in the color. Applied by hand applicator. Let sit for 20 mins. Buff out. It has to set for 24 hours then I can lay some wax on top of it.

Deep gloss-eh not as impressed. A tad slicker than iron gloss. Bright reflection. Dislikes: dusty when buffed off and creates static. Iron gloss absorbs better I feel and although I only used one coat I think two would be fun

P40 quick detailers from CG- very nice product. I like the carnuba properties of it as well as the "waterless" wash use.
 
#24 ·
Nice products man, i was gonna get a nuba based Detailer but after i talked to vader, UWW was the way to go for me because it doesnt affect your wax at all, it can also be used before, inbetween and after waxing without affecting adhesion.

PS. When you apply Fuzion, let it dry, the directions say to buff it off before it dries, dont. Let it haze on the paint then remove. Its easy to remove and has a big impact on beading/sheeting.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Drum rollllllllllll......
Here's a vid of the results. Sorry for shaking and rushing it. It was like 10 degrees outside Hood is completely done. Driver's side is just glazed and sealed. The vid does not include it waxed. I finished it tonight. I'll put some pics before and after. I coulda slapped the **** out of the previous owners and I'm pretty sure it's been repainted on the driver's side causing the orange peel. Def need to try wet sanding.

http://youtu.be/wdpU5Me3mII

And the pics....

Roof turned out good

Image


This is a disaster

Image


Image


During.. After the 34

Image


Image


After 36, really slowed it down in speed and let the pad and compound combo work together. Great results.
Image


Image


Image


Orange peel... At least it's scratch free

Image


Very reflective from far away

Image


Image


The passenger side is in WAAAAAAAY better shape so I'm excited to see how well it turns out compared to this crap. Looks like I need to learn how to wet sand... Shook? lol Modded I will also be trying out the menzerna on the passenger side too.
 
#26 ·
Reflections look great bro.

I would NOT try wetsanding unless you get your hands on a paint meter. ONE stroke too much with high grit paper and youll have to get your clear resprayed on that section. I saw a Porsche Cayenne today, brand new, black, very nice. Orange peel like a Mother, lol, i took a pic it was so bad.

Cheap paint meters are 4-600 i think lol. I want to get one eventually, the first big correction job i do thats more than 800 or 1k dollars.

Have a paying job tuesday and 2 more potential clients today, one is a brand new Fiat 500 Abarth Edition, GORGEOUS paint, coolest metal flake ive seen in person, black paint with greys, greens and pinks in the flake.
 
#28 ·
I'm gonna follow in shooks footsteps and give it a go on some crap body panels we have. My buddy also offered his truck as a test rat. As he will be tearing it down soon anyways. I'd really like to learn. And a paint meter would be ideal. It's on the list. No worries. And pleeeease post up pics of the fiat job! Sounds sexy


nice work
Thanks Cain. By the way, thinking about ordering those wheels you have when the time comes for new tires. Disclaimer: def not trying to pose your car. It will have a similar look though.
 
#30 ·
Very productive weekend. And so impressed with how well the passenger side responded in comparison to the driver's orange peel.
Products used:
Mother's clay 5 times to pass the baggie test!!!!! :banghead
-Cyan pad v34
-Tangerine pad v36
-Crimson pad PO85RD, Some panels I did with v38 and then Menzerna as a comparison. Very impressed with Menzerna. Would love to see their other cuts and polishes.
-Blue hex logic pad, I really like these pads for glazes and like products. CG wet mirror (very impressive pre wax gloss enhancer)
-Blue hex logic pad, CG Black light, 2 layers
Applied with foam applicator by hand. Dodo Juice iron gloss. 1 coat.
Cure time is 24 hours with this sealant. Temp hasn't changed in the shop so it be well cured by now as it's been 48 hours. I'm going to try and get some wax applied tomorrow before I throw the cover back on her. Wax will be 2 hand applied layers of Glasur :yes

Here's are the before/afters and a vid of results. very very pleased.

Vid:

reflection walk around - YouTube

Image


Image


Image


After 34 and 36. Very light scratches left.
Image


Image


Image
 
#31 ·
Damn good reflections man, love a black car.

Cannot WAIT to correct my mach 1 again.

I have all the stuff, just wanna get done first. lol
 
#32 ·
Thanks man. I have cabin fever bad so every night I'm usually out there tinkering on it. After the correction is done I'll be attacking under the hood detailing and pulling all the wheels off, cleaning the wells, painting calipers, doing new brakes, and all that jazz. Would really like to do the suspension at that point because I HAAAAATE taking off/putting on wheels.
 
#33 ·
Oh yea man, it may take a couple weeks but im goin ALL out on the mach 1, interior detail, under hood, im gonna clean and dress the fender wells, i also just got a great lugnut brush for agitating calipers and tight areas with wheel cleaner.

Im thinking about painting my brake calipers...idk tho.
 
#34 ·
FINALLY finished the passenger side. Glasur and fuzion Gave a real nice wet look. I know it's not "typical" to layer waxes but being as novice to the hobby as I am, I'm just experimenting with different combos.The hood was done in black light, deep gloss, pete's and xxx. Pretty uniform. I can tell the difference in slickness and depth/quality from panel to panel but any laymen onlooker or car guy would literally have to stare at it for an hour to pick up on it. Car was dusty from being in the barn.

Here's the vid:



Crappy pics.. I never shoot in middle of the day but I just wanted to see the results of all the hard work :)

Image


Image


This side was done with black light, iron gloss, and pete's

Image


Image


Annnnnnd this is why I've come to love black more than sonic blue lol

Image
 
#35 ·
Once you fully correct your ride and obtain a defect-free awesome finish, the sealant and premium waxes you are using should really give you all the wet and deep you want. Using blacklight is most likely overkill since your paint is so close to perfect, i doubt youll see a difference without using it, the sealant itself and the oils in the wax are gonna boost gloss and wetness factor. BL may have more fillers but you dont need fillers man!

Looks amazing BTW. Love me a black mustang

Idk why, im just not a big fan of using a Glaze on a car thats been corrected. Im not saying you cant or its wrong too, just not my style lol.

But hey to each his own and your car looks amazing.
 
#36 ·
Your opinion has been noted. maybe on the deck lid I can correct it, use a sealant, then layer cloud 9 with some glasur ;) Then I can get in close and examine the difference. Really the glaze is a "slickness" factor. And filler like you said. As explained in the reflection pic thread, I feel like my paint has a long long way to go.
On a side note, I did a friend's car, Nissan Murano and an f-150 yesterday. both are 2010 models. just clayed/glazed/waxed. I'm doing an explorer tomorrow. Bonus check will be in this week, as well as taxes, AND the 4 car detail. I see overnight parts from japan in the near future :lol mustang week here we come!