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Stroking Basics

24K views 61 replies 35 participants last post by  MustangLaunch  
#1 · (Edited)
#17 ·
feel free to add...
The added basic quick notes:

1. You have this stroke that hangs the piston longer.
2. Stroke acts as a retarder rod.
3. The basic retard is to hang that piston so the burn keeps burning is one reason for stroking.
4. Like the article said, keep that piston there is the whole point so you can rod the fulcrum all that pressure on an easier way to keep building pressure is hang time or retard the piston.
5. Ideal is let her rip 10° ATDC. This of course is ideal middle is the 10° range you want all the fuel ignited and now begins the power stroke in action.
6. The crank needs to move over from center, so this is degrees in crank degrees, but that piston is waiting up there stalled and pressuring.
7. If there was no off-set in the rod, that piston would rise to TDC and stop. It needs that off-set to swing over from center.
8. That is why you could literally reverse the rods and run the engine backwards as it has been done at Indy long ago about that rod off-set.

This concludes some of the basics about rod length and the practical application of air exploitation.
 
#3 ·
My favorite quote: "347 is not an ideal street motor due to rapid wear on the rings (from the relatively low rod ratio) and increased oil burning"

Nothing could be further from the truth.
 
#13 ·
Im about 99% its 427 is the biggest that block can go
 
#9 ·
I am wondering if someone could tell me. How do you fix it when your banks are running lean? My 1st and 3rd banks are running lean. Is that as simple as changing the plugs? I may sound stupid but I don't know what "banks running lean" mean. Thanks for any help anyone can give!
 
#16 · (Edited)
I am wondering if someone could tell me. How do you fix it when your banks are running lean?
Sorry guy, that is like eliminating the pop out the exhaust. The air is cold and moving, so there are cold and hot spot all over the engine. Like the corners of the block where the water like a rushing river but there are calm areas? Sorta works like that. So, there is a cold runner and she condenses the gas being it was cold to start with and is not helped warming up in a cold runner. Kind of there in a few runners and heat locations where atomization is good fuel charge in one fire hole, a low pressure on the other cylinder fire; being it didn't receive a mist. It was more droplets that were too thick to fire. So, mis-fuel-fire she goes as the unspent toward the cat.
 
#15 ·
you can take aftermarket 9.5 blocks bigger, but the 9.2 clevlend stops around 427
 
#19 ·
Im current trying to create a monster out of my 87 foxbody. i was wondering if any one could give me a hp prediction or tip for my project. this is what im working with so far.
331 stroker
soild crane z cam #443512
490 int/504 exh
268 in/274exh
duration@.050 lift 218 in /274exh
lobe seperation 112 degrees
rods scat 5.4 i beam rods
pistons kieth black flat top (non forged)
melling high volume oil pump,
double roller timing chain
280z flex plate
0-28 oz balancer
scat stroker 3.25 crank
Pro Comp Aluminum Heads 60cc combustion, 195cc intake runners
still havent decided on an intake... plan on driving daily. any input?

"Everyday in Africa Gazelle Awakes and knows he must run faster then the Lion or he will be eaten. Everday in Africa a Lion awakes and knows he must run faster the the slowest gazelle or he will starve to death. It doesnt matter if you are the Lion or the Gazelle all that matters is when the sun raises your ass better be running."
 
#23 ·
back to he comments before about the rod length ..... it does matter because the better the ratio the means your motor works better together and you know what **** you have in your motor.... it also means more compression and hp's :)
 
#24 ·
need help

Im wanting to stroke my 302 to a 347. Any suggestions on kits an what rod length use??? An will my top end work good w the extra cubic inches??
 
#26 ·
well afr heads should feed it from what the engine shop says. an the intake is port matched an the cam is pretty radical as is. it lopes pretty good.
 
#27 ·
rpmmachine.com has a all scat kit and is the cheapest ive found so far. what topend are you useing dstang88 and are you efi or carborated?
 
#28 · (Edited)
ill be using a gt40 or explorer and gt40 heads and an e cam is whats planned also gonna run spray and it is still efi...... im getting a cobra intake with the heads but i think the gt40 will work just as well and have a little bit more of a sleeper look to the non mustang peeps. and ya im sure your heads will flow plenty of air lol but everybody uses those im sure they work very well i just want to be a little different and i got a deal on my heads soooo.... why not !
 
#32 ·
It's not as easy as that.

You could build a 306 that is nice an docile on the street, or it could be an animal, same goes for the other combos. Street manners has more to with the heads, cam and intake. Generally, you will get the same HP level, but at a lower RPM, with more cubes.
 
#33 ·
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