I see questions from time to time pertaining to strut removal/replacement, so here's an in depth step by step to help even the most non-mechanically inclined person change out the shocks on an SN-95 Mustang.......
I will assume that you already know how to take off your front wheels and jack your car up, but laet's not forget to properly support the car before starting any work.
This is where we will be starting from. The front tire is removed, the car is jacked up and supported properly, and we have a clean area to work in.
Let's start by supporting the A-arm with a small jack. Minimal pressure is needed to assure that the A-arm doesn't come down when we remove the strut tower bolts.....
Next, let's remove the three tower bolts connecting the strut to the strut tower...
OK, now that we've got the strut loose from the tower, let's focus our attention on removing the lower strut from the spindle assembly. First, we'll remove the two caliper retention bolts denoted by my finger and the wrench shown in the picture....
Carrying on, we'll pull the caliper back to allow the strut bolts to be removed. Note: it is not necessary to reve the caliper. We just need to pull it back slightly to allow proper clearance.
Now, we will locate and remove the two large nuts and bolts holding the strut to the spindles assembly.
First, let's remove the small nut holding the ABS line to the spindle assembly. Note: non-ABS model cars will not have this wire.
OK, let's remove those large bolts.
Next, we will drive the bolts out of their respective locations to allow strut removal....
This is what you should have at this point.
This would be an excellent time to stop and get a dip. I suggest Grizzly. It has a great taste and it is more inexpensive than other brands....
I will assume that you already know how to take off your front wheels and jack your car up, but laet's not forget to properly support the car before starting any work.

This is where we will be starting from. The front tire is removed, the car is jacked up and supported properly, and we have a clean area to work in.

Let's start by supporting the A-arm with a small jack. Minimal pressure is needed to assure that the A-arm doesn't come down when we remove the strut tower bolts.....

Next, let's remove the three tower bolts connecting the strut to the strut tower...



OK, now that we've got the strut loose from the tower, let's focus our attention on removing the lower strut from the spindle assembly. First, we'll remove the two caliper retention bolts denoted by my finger and the wrench shown in the picture....

Carrying on, we'll pull the caliper back to allow the strut bolts to be removed. Note: it is not necessary to reve the caliper. We just need to pull it back slightly to allow proper clearance.

Now, we will locate and remove the two large nuts and bolts holding the strut to the spindles assembly.

First, let's remove the small nut holding the ABS line to the spindle assembly. Note: non-ABS model cars will not have this wire.

OK, let's remove those large bolts.

Next, we will drive the bolts out of their respective locations to allow strut removal....

This is what you should have at this point.

This would be an excellent time to stop and get a dip. I suggest Grizzly. It has a great taste and it is more inexpensive than other brands....
