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Understanding a 4.2 stroker

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41K views 34 replies 14 participants last post by  Toph6888  
#1 · (Edited)
VV--- Ignore that, I was tired and misread some information ---VV


OK, let me start out by saying, I'm in no way a mechanic, but I have a pretty good understanding of mechanical science. I'm having a little trouble understanding the main differences between grabbing a lower end out of an f150 and buying a stroker kit from ssms or something of the like.

From what I've seen, the v6 in the mustang and v6 f150 are the same motor (essex v6), both have the same bore, so, it would seem, you just take the crank, rods and pistons out of the f150 (or alternatively, take the block, since it is the same) and slap your top end on, and you have a 4.2. The thing is, the 03-04 mustangs make 190hp, and the f150 4.2 makes 203 or something like that, so that's a 13hp gain.

Now, ssms claims that their stroker kit will increase up to 90hp, and all they include is the crank, rod, and pistons as well. They also advertise their kit as a 4.3 "long rod" kit.

Now, I'm assuming since the cylinder is the same size regardless, the pistons are shorter for the extra .1l of displacement, but where does the extra 77hp over the f150 come in? surely not from the extra tenth of a liter of displacement.

I'm assuming the longer rods, which would put the displacement range farther up in the cylinder, makes more compression, which leads to more hp since the amount of space displaced is at a larger percentage to the total space of the cylinder over stock?


In short, I'm curious why it seems the 4.2 f150 lower end only makes 203hp, but smss stroker kit can make 280. As I said, I'm not a mechanic, so I'm really just trying to learn this stuff and rationalize concepts with my pretty basic mechanical knowledge (not to mention it is 2:30am), so I could be waaaay off track. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
#2 ·
the ssm stroker motor longblock has ported big valve heads, fully ported intakes and a perfomance camshaft, thus making a lot more power than a stock top end 4.2
 
#4 ·
where does it say the stroker kit makes 280?

this is all i see

Long Rod 4.3 Stroker Kit Rotating Assembly
Long Rod 4.3 Stroker: New 4.2 crank, SCAT forged stroker Hbeam
rods, ARP rod bolts, Wiseco forged pistons, rings, pins,
and lox: $1800. Our long-rod approach is superior, clearancing
of the crank or the block is not required& the longer rod improves
internal engine geometry for improved performance.
Options: King/ACL main/rod bearings: $150, iron flywheel/
flexplate & balancer: $350, balancing: $250, SFI billet aluminum
flywheel: $425, SFI billet harmonic balancer (neutral only),
$425, windage tray/girdle/main stud/oil pickup/dipstick/oil pan
kit: $425
Race-prepped crankshaft (shown): Magnafluxed, deburred of
rough edges & casting flash, counterweights contoured & radiused
to reduce power-robbing windage, completely polished &
professionally shot peened for improved strength & durability:
$900 Best crank for BIG power & higher RPMs !

http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/pdf/SSM2011catrev1ForgedInternals.pdf
 
#5 ·
it says their longblock can make 280+

Mustang, Supercoupe, T-Bird, Cougar, F-150
“Long Rod” 4.3 stroker crate engines are the simple bolt-in solution to your performance
and reliability needs without V8 engine swap expense and hassles. These are complete
engines, not just a long block. Dyno-proven to over 600 horsepower with power adder,
these engines can be tuned to produce 280-375 horsepower naturally aspirated. “Long
Rod” engines feature 8.7-11:1 compression ratio, seasoned 99-04 3.8 block, new 4.2
crankshaft, SCAT forged H-beam rods, ARP rod bolts, Wiseco forged pistons, Stage 3
PowerPak, SSM billet cam, stud mount 1.7 roller rockers, hardened pushrods, girdle, oil
pan, pickup, dipstick, balancer, and flywheel/flexplate. Internally balanced, machined,
torque plate honed, aligned, decked, glyptal sealed, painted and assembled. Delivered
complete, just transfer timing cover, water and oil pumps, accessories, sensors, injectors,
motor mounts, etc. We offer a complete but less expensive 4.2 stroker engine with forged
pistons and stock rods for naturally aspirated applications.
Long Rod 4.3 Stroker: $8000, $450 core
 
#7 ·
that is correct but i dont see where it says that only crank, rods and pistons will make 280
 
#9 ·
you really cant say that the crank, rods, piston, will give you 280+ because if you give it 8:1 comp ratio your killing power instead of making it. There is a lot more than just a rotating assemly is going to give you 280+. Capable yeah with supporting mods and right specs. I have a lot of supporting mods and built my engine for a twin turbo setup. Roughly with mine im around 300-325 n/a at the wheels.
 
#14 ·
you really cant say that the crank, rods, piston, will give you 280+ because if you give it 8:1 comp ratio your killing power instead of making it. There is a lot more than just a rotating assemly is going to give you 280+. Capable yeah with supporting mods and right specs. I have a lot of supporting mods and built my engine for a twin turbo setup. Roughly with mine im around 300-325 n/a at the wheels.
What did you swap a 4valve?
 
#11 ·
I was speaking in terms of dimensions. I know that the ssms set is comprised of sturdier parts, but I was just curious if anyone knew of dimension differences. What makes the ssm kit 4.3 and the f150 4.2? Why is it "long rod"?

Am I correct to assume that the pistons are shorter to get the extra .1l? And are the rods "long rod" because they're longer than stock, longer than the typical 4.2 or what? Sorry if I'm asking the type of questions most people say "It just is what it is" to, but I like to understand these kind of concepts before I continue with a project.

If anyone is curious, my current goal with this car is to pick up one of the many 4.2 motors laying around in my area, tear it down to block and heads, then more or less throw my top end on. I plan to port the heads while they're off, and I'm also looking at picking up a cam from ssms. Fully rebuilt engine will be had for approx 1000-1100 plus a couple days work.

Everything I've looked at between the 4.2 and 3.8 seems the same as far as systems, so it should just drop in and be good to go if I'm correct. No need for new fuel system or anything like that.

Let me know if you guys have any suggestions.
 
#12 ·
A 4.3 is bored out. The rods from the 4.2 and 3.8 are the same. The wrist pin is set deeper ibto the piston to accomodate for the extra stroke length on the 4.2. you can use 351w rods as well if i remember correctly.

Sent from my droid using my fingers.
 
#13 ·
I'm not sure how the ssms 4.3 is bored. They sell the crank/pistons/rod as a drop in kit.

Also, just curious why you mentioned the 351w rods. Im assuming because they're stronger (seeing as they came out of much larger engine). but with the stock 351 rods being ibeam too, is the strength worth hunting them down (actually there's a set of rods on ebay for 20 dollars that the guy says are good. Just need cleaned and inspected)?

Sorry if I'm asking too many questions guys, I try to make sure I search as much as possible before asking anything. I just want to get this stuff down before I tear my engine apart. I wish they had a site with specifics like rod length, piston depth, ect for all these ford engines. If they do, I have yet to find it. x_x
 
#23 ·
i gotta see these dyno sheets, just talked to tom last week when i ordered my cam for my 4.3 build, and he said with cam, stage 3 heads and p&p intakes ill probably be looking around 250 to the wheels, so this custom upper intake is givin you 50+ hp?! get a patent cuz u could get rich!
 
#25 ·
What compression ratio are you running and what cc's are your heads? because when I called him up to order all my parts he was even saying im looking around 3-325? Thats why he suggested that I get the girdle too. because the blocks that are going over 300 without proper support are junk and waiting to be cracked.
 
#31 ·
i am a mechanic ok in order to understand stroker kits you have to understand displacement the 3.8L has these dimensions bore 3.81" stroke 3.39" so to get the displacement you take bore X bore X stroke X 0.7854 X cylenders so 3.81x3.81x3.39x0.7854x6 and you get 231.89 cubic inches round up to 232 if you use a 4.2 crank you get 3.81x3.81x3.74x.7854x6 to get 255.83or 256 CI now if you buy a stroker 4.2 kit you get a higher stroke say 3.88" so now you get with the math 265.41 round up to 266 CI which is 4.33 L engine now to blow your mind increase the bore by .030 to get 270 CI or 4.51 L the gt is 4.6 L 280 CI hopefully this helps
 
#33 ·
Does it need to be balanced afterwards?

I am in the middle of helping my 14 y.o. son build a 4.2 stroker, and I have a question I cant seem to find an answer to...

So we are starting with a 2000 externally balanced 3.8 manual. We bought the 4.2 crank, and I will find a neutral balanced pulley and flywheel.

So my question is... is the new internally balanced crankshaft already balanced? Can I just put the neutral pulley and flywheel and run with it? Or do I have to get the whole thing rebalanced anyways?

We are also debating whether to pay the extra $180 to bore from 4.2 to 4.3. They are checking out the block now to see how it looks. But after 200k miles, it still have the factory crosshatch in the cylinders, so I think we are in good shape.
 
#35 ·
I am in the middle of helping my 14 y.o. son build a 4.2 stroker, and I have a question I cant seem to find an answer to...

So we are starting with a 2000 externally balanced 3.8 manual. We bought the 4.2 crank, and I will find a neutral balanced pulley and flywheel.

So my question is... is the new internally balanced crankshaft already balanced? Can I just put the neutral pulley and flywheel and run with it? Or do I have to get the whole thing rebalanced anyways?

We are also debating whether to pay the extra $180 to bore from 4.2 to 4.3. They are checking out the block now to see how it looks. But after 200k miles, it still have the factory crosshatch in the cylinders, so I think we are in good shape.
If you are running stock rods/pistons and the stock neutral balance flywheel/pulley, you should be fine. However, if you are going to be putting forged pistons or rodsin it I would take it to get it balanced. When I put my pistons in they had to add weight to the crank due to the weight of the pistons.

In terms of boring, thats mainly if you have a defect in the cylinder wall that you should bore it or if you want to run a specific piston that needs the overbore to fit. When I built my engine the pistons I could buy only came in 0.020" or 0.030" overbore, so I had to bore the block. If the block is good theres not much reason to bore it out. Boring 0.030" out on our block only results in 3.6 cuin over the stock 3.8L displacement. Boring 0.030" out on the 4.2L setup results in an extra 4.04cuin. A stock "4.2L" bore/stroke = 4.19L which people refer to as 4.2L. The "4.3L stroker" referes to the 0.030" overbore, which results in a total volume of 4.256L which people round up to 4.3L.

In the end, the boring is not going to make a noticeable difference unless you have wear in your cylinders and it needs to be bored/honed to clean it up.
 
#34 ·
Here's a quick explanation: Eagle Specialty Products, Inc.

Assuming you're throwing in some aftermarket rods and pistons, I'd recommend having the rotating assembly balanced.