On my 5th oil change in 500 miles and just switched to synthetic. Noticing a lot of shiney metal flake in the oil still. Arp torque tight lube and permatex ultra slick was used for assembly.
New engine rebuild specs in oil.
DetroitMuscle99
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On my 5th oil change in 500 miles and just switched to synthetic. Noticing a lot of shiney metal flake in the oil still. Arp torque tight lube and permatex ultra slick was used for assembly.
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For now I am n/a. I've never cut open a filter. What should I use and how should i cut it. Down the center? Around the filter part etc?
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What was the cause of the rebuild?
I know when I spun a bearing, it is a nightmare getting all the flakes out of the pan. You need to flush it with kerosene, rub it with an oiled towel, then wash it out with water and Dawn dish soap, rinse, rinse rinse, repeat, rinse rinse rinse, oiled rag again, etc to get all the metal out.
You DO NOT want that metal circulating through the engine.
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Just wanted to push the motor past 450whp. Also its a teksid. So to answer your question to save weight and have a fully forged shortblock. If you spin a bearing isn't there usualy a noise that comes with it or a poorly running engine?
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The pan was completly clean when installed on new block. So its bearing debris? Or from my new rings. Was told there shouldn't be any more flaking left after 2nd oil change.
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Yes, a spun bearing will make noise, a steady thunk thunk thunk that increases with RPM.
What kind of oil filter are you running?
I would imagine that metal flake in any motor is a bad thing, but they don't come out of the oil easily because it congregates on the bottom of the pan.
I'd pull the pan, wash it out, flush it, run a oil soaked rag over it to get any stray pieces, then reinstall it.
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Well I think I'm ****ed. I'm getting a bad squeel/tick/grind when clutch is pressed all the way down or when I let the clutch out. A trans shop at the corner which I just got back from said I have a bad throw out bearing. So with that being said would a new throw out bearing going bad within 525ish miles indicate something wrong in motor also, or could that of caused me to have worn bearings throught the motor now?
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They make little tools that cut them open if you're willing to spend the money. Heres an example: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/80532/10002/-1
---------- Post added at 05:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:51 PM ----------
I wouldnt freak out over a bad tob. Tob's go bad for a number of reasons. Pain in the ass but just swap it out. Was it new when you put everything back together?
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Yes was a new ford racing one from American muscle. Had a little over 500 miles. I'm worried about thrust bearing now with the metallic flake in the oil still at 500 miles.
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what is your thrust SPEC? tiny flakes in oil are not good. My Turbo bearing died and spread **** all through my motor but I'm still running it with Zero issues and still see tiny specs here and there. If they are small enough to pass through the oil passages like glitter then I would say your fine let the filter do its thing. If your thrust is bad then you need to replace it or you will keep spreading the flakes as the bearing wears down even more.
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Ssg. They are very fine particals. If I drain my oil and watch. The oil looks very clean coming out. Naked eye wouldn't notice. But when I pull pan out from under the car I see mettalic look like a typical motor break in oil should look. How could I tell of thrust bearing is bad or going. Is there any noises or signs. Or how do I check to make sure that its okay.
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0.011
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You have to pry on the haronic balancer in and out and measure with a micrometer the distance it moves in one full direction. this will give you your thrust reading. Probally something on youtube about it if you want a visual.
Change your filter a couple ties in a short period of time and keep an eye on it. If you have a bearing go out youll know about it for sure with vibration and or noise.
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I don't have a micrometer. A friend helped me assemble and degree the cams. He had the tools.
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I apologize I meant to say you need a dial indicator magnetic based preferably to check the end play not a Micrometer... I use the same exact setup that I use to check backlash on gears to check end play.
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Last oil change after letting sit for a few minutes.
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Can you pull pan with motor in and tubular k member? I have 2 gaskets and a livernois Windage tray. Would there be enough clearance to clear the Windage tray. Perharps some of the break in material never drained out of the pan I suppose. The car runs good other than a throw out bearing that just went bad. But that gives me concern if a new throw out went so quickly.
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