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07stanggt

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
As you know, had the pinion seal replaced yesterday, new spec clutch in.

First if i dont let the clutch out perfect, the car shakes, i guess you call this chatter? Im not up on all the terms as i have never, had a problem with a clutch in my life. In first, i can kinda get it just right everytime and it doesnt do it much, in reverse, forget about it, shakes the hell out of the car. Basically if you ride the clutch at all it shakes, and backing up? who doesnt ride the clutch a little?

i dont know if these two things are related or what the freaking problem is but after my third session on the track and right before my final session i decide to take a look under the car and this is what i saw.

It was dripping all along the bottom of the right side of the axle, from the differential all the way over and running down the control arm bracket. I cant tell if its comeing from where the diff goes into the axle or is that a plug on the top of the axle that it could leak from? There is none on the bottom of the diff like with the last leak, that was comeing from the pinion area, so this is different.

HELP ME. Im fed up with this. I should have never even let anyone touch this rearend, it was flawless for so long. A ford dealership put my 4.10s in and i have no problems. Then we rebuild it, problem, we fix the problem, bigger problem. Im dropping it at ford monday i guess. For a new OEM clutch and what is up with the rearend?

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damn rich... that doesnt look like it was from the rear end swap. Id say just weld you axle tubes LMAO... a little leakage is normal. if they overfilled the housing, then that is a normal amount of leakage... thats a vent on the top.

sorry about the clutch.. sounds like the flywheel isnt agreeing with the new friction.. or did you get a new flywheel? either way.. I hope the old flywheel was machined for the new clutch.

sorry about your problems man.... I might never say this but... just burn that clutch down real quick and see if it smoothes out.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
damn rich... that doesnt look like it was from the rear end swap. Id say just weld you axle tubes LMAO... a little leakage is normal. if they overfilled the housing, then that is a normal amount of leakage... thats a vent on the top.

sorry about the clutch.. sounds like the flywheel isnt agreeing with the new friction.. or did you get a new flywheel? either way.. I hope the old flywheel was machined for the new clutch.

sorry about your problems man.... I might never say this but... just burn that clutch down real quick and see if it smoothes out.
Clutch is gone, i downshifted in a turn and it was chattering. that **** will wreck you. Im not even letting someone "adjust it"

Thats a lot of fluid and the vibration i had is back, intermittent still but worse.

Though i will say the car performed flawlessly at the track. The only reason i even looked under the car is becuase i heard a little pop in the carousel turn which is a turn that you dip down in and the car really plants. I just wanted to make sure something in the suspension wasnt loose. I think it was my center caps popping off, see pic below.

im glad i do my own damn suspension work becuase thats the only god damn thing that is spot on, that and the engine. Driveshaft might be gone to, im not paying to make sure its balanced....should have came that way. Dont you have install that thing right? isnt there like 8 postitions to put it in or something? I know damn well that wasnt done right.

You know what, for every asshole out there that says they are experts on these cars and the money im willing to freaking spend. I dont know why somone cant get this **** right for me. I know damn well i could have screwed my own car up this much for free trying to fix it and would probably be closer to a solution. Its a damn ford solid rear. Its as old as dirt whats the mystery.

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Discussion starter · #6 ·
if you were road racing I would say that is normal....I have it on my 9" when I do some good 130+ mph runs, it has some residual oil on the axle housings

No sorry its not normal. this was dripping, in like 8 spots, its drenched. And i know thats what some ****ing tuner shop would say too. I road raced plenty before and never had fluid leaking out of this car anywhere. obviously ford just knows what they are doing. Ill let a dealership fix it.

Alight im done venting.

Mustangs arent ****, some people that work on them are **** and blame ford. thats all i'll say about it.
 
Rich I agree 100%...lots of experts just maybe not with fords. I've had my share of problems and still do. However I know you don't want to spend more money but I can speak for a friend of mine as well as my self who have been more than satisfied with JDM. THey rebuilt my rear as well as a friend and even did his 1 piece aluminum drive shaft with a stock upper control arm. 0 issues for either of us. I swear I will not bring my car anywhere but there anymore. Expensive but they warranty work and will go to great lengths to please a customer. They even offered to have my car towed to the shop for work or have it picked up and dropped off. Either way I hope everything gets fixed for you buddy

as soon as i get some more cash I will bring it there for them to fix my suspension problems
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
no they didnt just overfill it. its gone up in a cloud of smoke and grinding metal now. LOL. Right after i was online i started driving and boom, screeeeeeetch. What can i say.

Problem is the closest dealer to me wouldnt install the 4.10s in the first place. This leaves me with a decision i guess. have it towed 1 hour away to a frpp authorized ford dealer or go with 3.55s. i guess ill have the stock drivershaft put on as well and a stock clutch. might as well make sure this vibration is gone.
 
don't bite my head off....I was letting you know my stock rear end did it and my 9" does it also when I go 130+ mph....it may have boiled out if the backlash wasn't set correctly and caused the gears and housing to get really hot....I have built a bunch of Ford 8.8 rearends and never had any gear whine or over heating problems....I usually set the back lash between .008"-.0013" and never have any problems....did you have any gear whine when accelerating or deccelerating?
 
Depends on what clutch and flywheel you have now ... most "high performance" clutches are not designed to be chatter free at lower rpms or with soft let-outs ... they're designed to be "launched" and with the extra strength means less (much less) slippage (as what happens with a stock clutch profile).

Sorry to hear about your fluid issues in the diff ... sounds like the vent tubes are blocked, probably by over filling ... the vent lines might not have been put on right or they have spilt in them or something ... bummer.
 
no they didnt just overfill it. its gone up in a cloud of smoke and grinding metal now. LOL. Right after i was online i started driving and boom, screeeeeeetch. What can i say.

Problem is the closest dealer to me wouldnt install the 4.10s in the first place. This leaves me with a decision i guess. have it towed 1 hour away to a frpp authorized ford dealer or go with 3.55s. i guess ill have the stock drivershaft put on as well and a stock clutch. might as well make sure this vibration is gone.
real shity man....sorry for my last statement...ill just shut up now.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
real shity man....sorry for my last statement...ill just shut up now.
Oh no problem brother. i know what guys think, i say fluid on the drive shaft and guys think yea a little bit thats nothing, but thats why i said it was running down the control arm bracket, it was blown back all over the gas tank It was a lot.

I dont know, i just talked to the ford dealership and the service manager is going to call me monday. I told the guy up there that i know, that i want to be able to specify parts numbers and all and ill see what they say monday. but that dealership usually doesnt like doing that.


Got some decisions to make know. MM guys wanna help me spend money?

4.10s do i want to spin it that hard that long at the track? on some straights i really was just peddling becuase there wasnt enough time to go to fifth but fourth was wound out. Then again you shouldnt set your car up for something you only do once and a while.

3.73s ah wimpy.

could throw my stock 3.55s back in it but it would be a dog down low i think.

I guess ill go with a trutrac.

Should i take my driveshaft while its off and get it balanced? should i just not waste my time and put the stocker back on?

at the dealer today and fluid was everywhere running behind the car. LOL. stinks to high hell still.
 
Don't replace the clutch with the stock one. I have a Spec Stage 3 and mine did that. It takes a while for the clutch to get broken in so the chatter stops. It will do away after a thousand or so miles. I hated it also, made it seem like I didn't know how to drive manual and I had to explain to all my friends it's cause the new clutch. It just freakin grips lol
 
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