i need help. i was able to change to coil overs on my buddy's wrx but looking at this mustang suspension. i am completely lost. i need to know exactly what i need. people keep asking well what are you going to be doing. street. its a mustang. not tracking it. just wanna go straight really fast. handeling doesn't hurt but my priority is straight. want to replace it all. the front struts and install coils, and then the rear is the confusing part. i need a new strut and a lowering spring im guessing? any info please help out thanks.
2001 BULLITT suspension
So_calpsycho
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i need help. i was able to change to coil overs on my buddy's wrx but looking at this mustang suspension. i am completely lost. i need to know exactly what i need. people keep asking well what are you going to be doing. street. its a mustang. not tracking it. just wanna go straight really fast. handeling doesn't hurt but my priority is straight. want to replace it all. the front struts and install coils, and then the rear is the confusing part. i need a new strut and a lowering spring im guessing? any info please help out thanks.
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+1 ^ you already are a step above with the built suspension.
you can do upper and lower control arms in the rear with a nice spring like a h&r ss, and in the front do coilovers, this will give u the ability to adjust the firmness and ride hieght of the front of the car, also coilovers are great for weight transfer and helping you hook up at the track, plus they look like sex lol
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Lowering springs are not the best for weight transfer to the rear. Look into a pan hard bar, torque-arms, and full length SFC. We have SFC on our cars, but they are the cheesy vert bolt on SFC. They aren't that great, but better than nothing I suppose.
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^ +1 same thing with my vert
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:exactly
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I believe you should think this out further :yes
Good suspension is not only for turns, but control of your ride (especially at high speeds
). I would recommend and upgrade to weld-in SFC's as BB suggested. Your ride is already set up pretty nicely with springs/dampers and such. I am sure the brakes are upped from a standard GT as well.
Now, take a ride in a car that can really corner, like your buddy's WRX. Let him take you through the "Fort Ross Twisties" (see sig) at 50mph and you just may re-think your WHOLE IDEA of what direction to take your ride. Then again.... you may not
Jazzer.... pimpin' the twisties again
.............what?
Good suspension is not only for turns, but control of your ride (especially at high speeds
). I would recommend and upgrade to weld-in SFC's as BB suggested. Your ride is already set up pretty nicely with springs/dampers and such. I am sure the brakes are upped from a standard GT as well.Now, take a ride in a car that can really corner, like your buddy's WRX. Let him take you through the "Fort Ross Twisties" (see sig) at 50mph and you just may re-think your WHOLE IDEA of what direction to take your ride. Then again.... you may not
Jazzer.... pimpin' the twisties again
.............what?
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Yep we have Cobra brakes.
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Have you read the guide in my sig? Its alot of information, but its all good. Let me break it down for you really quick. Your front end is a modified machpherson strut. A macpherson strut is a coil over type spring and shock minus the height adjustability. So on our cars, The shock goes directly to the spindle and gives you good dampering. The spring however, is half way between the wheel and the frame, making for poor wheel rates and a generally shitty ride. Coil overs fix it, but its more expensive. However, when you weigh out the costs of a PROPER lowering job, its like $400 more and there is nothing better than coil overs for every type of driving. don't argue with me there anyone, cause your wrong. Coil overs are lighter, have height adjustment and you can get them as soft as you want.
The rear suspension is its own story. Similar concept with the struts. Spring 50% of the way from wheel to frame and shock directly on axle. However, the big difference on your rear is, you have a 4 link. 4 links, are trash in every way. your axle winds up and swings side to side under cornering. Since you are only really worried about the straight stuff, I wouls simply recommend new LC's. new UC's is stupid because the only difference is the bushings, and you can change those out if you REALLY want to. Other wise, the new LC's will take care of 80% of the axle wind up, and lead to much better hooking. Plus adjustable ones will give you some minor height adjustment. Which will let you fine tune your rear traction.
You don't want coil overs in the rear because, they are expensive, and will really stiffen up your ride, most likely to a point beyond where you want it. Fron't coil overs can actually improve ride quality and handling, rear coil over won't. They just don't make soft enough springs for that to happen... Sorry. However, a good set of shocks and a nice set of springs with the help of some LC's will have you launching great. Not as well as it could mind you, but untill you invest in some boost or a serious shot of laughing gas, traction won't be an issue yet. you break the 400 rwhp mark, and I'll tell you what your next upgrade should be.
All of this info is in my guide BTW. Look for the posts with LARGE lettering to see what is important.
The rear suspension is its own story. Similar concept with the struts. Spring 50% of the way from wheel to frame and shock directly on axle. However, the big difference on your rear is, you have a 4 link. 4 links, are trash in every way. your axle winds up and swings side to side under cornering. Since you are only really worried about the straight stuff, I wouls simply recommend new LC's. new UC's is stupid because the only difference is the bushings, and you can change those out if you REALLY want to. Other wise, the new LC's will take care of 80% of the axle wind up, and lead to much better hooking. Plus adjustable ones will give you some minor height adjustment. Which will let you fine tune your rear traction.
You don't want coil overs in the rear because, they are expensive, and will really stiffen up your ride, most likely to a point beyond where you want it. Fron't coil overs can actually improve ride quality and handling, rear coil over won't. They just don't make soft enough springs for that to happen... Sorry. However, a good set of shocks and a nice set of springs with the help of some LC's will have you launching great. Not as well as it could mind you, but untill you invest in some boost or a serious shot of laughing gas, traction won't be an issue yet. you break the 400 rwhp mark, and I'll tell you what your next upgrade should be.
All of this info is in my guide BTW. Look for the posts with LARGE lettering to see what is important.
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appreciate the help. ok let me rephrase. i just want a solid body with limited to no body roll. handeling of course. is a priority however the problem right now is too much torque for my old springs and shocks. when i floor it from a stop. my rear end chages lanes. as freaking awesome as it may be, this is a problem when it comes to racing. i want a solid suspension that wont let or limit my car from doing this. i just put 2 12" jl audio's in the trunk. adding this extra hundred pounds over the rear wheels let me say is a big help! much less slip. and i am also about to install my 18x10's. so more traction is available. just need to know about a suspension upgrade that helps me utilize what i have. i want some new lowering springs and a new strut for the rear and coil overs in the front??? just let me know if i'm aiming correctly with this? oh,
post script... even though my buddy's wrx with coil overs, if anyone on heres knows of it. the onramp to the 5 south on alicia in mission viejo, i can take it at about 45 or 50 maybe without screeching. and he is only at about 50 or 55...
post script... even though my buddy's wrx with coil overs, if anyone on heres knows of it. the onramp to the 5 south on alicia in mission viejo, i can take it at about 45 or 50 maybe without screeching. and he is only at about 50 or 55...
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You're rear end kicking out one way or the other serverly can be caused by the diff clutches getting worn out. Invest in a tru trac diff it's a gear style and will not wear out like the clutches do. The weight in the rear may help, but LCAs (lower control arms) will help with traction. Also, look into a panhard bar. That will control the rear wheels from steering the rear, because of the play in it. Also, look into a front strut tower bar. That will tighten up the front. If your shocks are worn and you want to lower the Bullitt even more I suggest going with H&R Super Sport springs and some bilistein (sp?) dampers. Know that lowering it will not help you get the appropriate weight transfer if you are trying to launch from a dig. If you don't have full length subframe connectors that is a must. That alone will tighten up the chasis. I would for go the 18x10s in the rear and go with the 17x10.5 so that you can put a 315/35 R17 tire in back. That will get you a smidge more rubber on the road than what you could fit on a 18x10. My personal choices for suspension would be Maximum Motorsports. Griggs and Kenny Brown are also reputable companies.
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