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I'd wire it into the fuse box. Also don't forget to wire up the dimmer wire. Just piggy back it off the dimmer switch. It's either the brown or black wire, I forget which one it is exactly. Someone should be able to verify which one it is for you though.
 
I've had my wideband and boost gauges piggybacked off of the dimmer switch for a while with no problems. I mean, they have a wire for it to be dimmable. I just ran a power cable off of a switched power with one of the small fuse "taps" and used another fuse on that power cable. I use it to power my two gauges.

I don't think the shift lights are supposed to be wired to a dimmer though. My shift light only had a switched power wire, ground wire, and Tach Input signal wire. I have the Raptor shift light if that makes a difference. So, I didn't wire it up to a dimmer.
 
I think so because I mean how much power does a little gauge draw .. It can't be much. Not to mention, I've got my stuff set-up and it works fine. I do have a little side question though. I've got the Autometer Sport Comp II boost gauge and it is just lit around the gauge. The numbers aren't lit with a back light or anything. Is that normal? I figured the numbers would be lit up ... I'm wondering if I got a bad gauge.
 
Thats the dumbest thing I've ever heard. you had your wideband only working at night basically...or when the lights are on. Thats not smart at all, and thats how you blow stuff up.
We told you to wire the POWER wire off of the fuse panel. Piggyback the DIMMER wire of the gauges to the DIMMER for the lights in the car. Go back and read it again.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Thats amazing... I can read, I just figured out. I get that buddy. It doesn't mean your other concept isn't retarded.

I powered it through the centercounsel power in the armrest. Were did you guys fish the vac line from the engine bay through the car. The one grommet on the drivers side doesn't seem like it fishes all the way through.
 
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