So far for suspension I only have H&R Race Springs and CC plates. I wanted to know what I would get the most out of lower control arms, shocks & struts, or a bumpsteer kit. My mods are in my garage and I don't have any real goals for my car just your average bolt on street driven gt.
Which suspension parts should get changed first?
moneygreenstang
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So far for suspension I only have H&R Race Springs and CC plates. I wanted to know what I would get the most out of lower control arms, shocks & struts, or a bumpsteer kit. My mods are in my garage and I don't have any real goals for my car just your average bolt on street driven gt.
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You should have got the bumpsteer kit and the struts/shocks with the springs. The lower center of gravity and altered roll center of your car as it sits is already causing you to suffer from bumpsteer. Also, the higher spring rate of the H&R springs cannot be dampened by the stock struts/shocks. the job of the strut/shock is the prevent the spring from bouncing when you take a bump by dampening the impact. you NEED to have a set of high performance struts/shocks to really take advantage of the springs. im sure right now it really feels like it hugs those turns like its on rails, but believe me when you put the right combination of parts on there you will realize where you may have gone wrong.
The best thing to do here is to save up until you have enough cash to pick up both the bumpsteer kit and a nice set of high performance struts and shocks. MM makes a nice bumpsteer and so does steeda. as far as struts go id be looking at a set of Koni yellows or Tokicos. Control arms would be nice, but if your springs are in the stock location you dont have many options as far as tubular arms go. if your looking to go all out with the chassis and suspension with tubular parts you should look into a set of full MacPherson struts(coil overs) in order to relocate your springs. For now at least get the bumpsteer and a matching set of struts for your springs.
The best thing to do here is to save up until you have enough cash to pick up both the bumpsteer kit and a nice set of high performance struts and shocks. MM makes a nice bumpsteer and so does steeda. as far as struts go id be looking at a set of Koni yellows or Tokicos. Control arms would be nice, but if your springs are in the stock location you dont have many options as far as tubular arms go. if your looking to go all out with the chassis and suspension with tubular parts you should look into a set of full MacPherson struts(coil overs) in order to relocate your springs. For now at least get the bumpsteer and a matching set of struts for your springs.
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well depends what you use the car for. if you care about handling and turns, shocks and struts definately. for straight line, i'd say control arms!
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I would begin with the installation of some good LCA's :yes
BUT..... before I recommend one to you, I would ask your ultimate goals for your ride. An aftermarket LCA is going to be much better for launching, but depending on the type, will not be soo good for the twisty. I am sorta-kinda-maybe-just a little-into taking corners, so I would NEVER go solid poly/poly LCA :no
Depending on your horsepower goals, and more importantly, your rear tire type/compound, I would recommend a poly/spherical LCA and would be eiter UPR or MM. I would recommend a Griggs if plans to hit the 1/4 often or just want about the best you can buy. I would recommend you replace the UCA's as well, but not before I knew your long-term goals for suspension modifications.
Jazzer
BUT..... before I recommend one to you, I would ask your ultimate goals for your ride. An aftermarket LCA is going to be much better for launching, but depending on the type, will not be soo good for the twisty. I am sorta-kinda-maybe-just a little-into taking corners, so I would NEVER go solid poly/poly LCA :no
Depending on your horsepower goals, and more importantly, your rear tire type/compound, I would recommend a poly/spherical LCA and would be eiter UPR or MM. I would recommend a Griggs if plans to hit the 1/4 often or just want about the best you can buy. I would recommend you replace the UCA's as well, but not before I knew your long-term goals for suspension modifications.
Jazzer
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you should have done struts/shocks when you installed the springs. Now you gotta take everything apart again. Have fun. But id do shocks and struts/bumpsteer. Just save up and do it all at once. they all go hand and hand. but if you really can only do just one. Shocks and struts. but when you are spending 500+ on shocks and struts, whats another 100 bucks you know?
I really like my Tokicos Adjustable D specs. Tune them stiff or Soft. Soft rides better then Stock even with H&R SS springs.
I really like my Tokicos Adjustable D specs. Tune them stiff or Soft. Soft rides better then Stock even with H&R SS springs.
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Since when? Shocks can be done totally independently of anything else, and doing the struts involves taking off the brake caliper at most.
And for what it's worth, tires are the #1 absolute most important suspension mod you can make. If you don't have decent rubber, all else is for naught.
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yeah i ment struts. shock you can do whenever...you have to take the spring out to get the the struts if i can remember that far back? right??
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only if you have coilovers. otherwise the strut comes out independant of the coil...
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handing it out like candy...:yes
shocks and struts if you have not got them...your stockers only last so long
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What Az said. It's the only nice thing about inboard spring McPhersons.
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NVM. i got it. Im thinking of it backwards. LOL. Sorry. It's been awhile since i did the install. ughh, i feel dumb.
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Thanks for all the responses, the H&R springs were installed on the car when I bought it so I'm just getting around to patching up the suspension work from the last owner. I just bought new wheels and tires so I'm good there too. I've read "The Official Suspension Guide" all the way through already hahah but I after reading I still didn't know which parts would work with what I had in mind and in what order should I get them.I just bought new wheels and tires so I'm good there too. I want the car to launch well and handle some curves when I drive through west virgina and virgina twice a year. I really just want to get all my power to the ground.
I will get the bumpsteer kit and the shocks first, sometimes when I go over bumps it does feel like the springs just wont settle and I guess that would be because of the shocks. Are the any good lca's where i can adjust the ride height? Are HPM Control arms any good? I have toyo proxes 295/35/18 on 18x10 in the back and 255/35zr/18 bridgestone potenza's on 18x9
I will get the bumpsteer kit and the shocks first, sometimes when I go over bumps it does feel like the springs just wont settle and I guess that would be because of the shocks. Are the any good lca's where i can adjust the ride height? Are HPM Control arms any good? I have toyo proxes 295/35/18 on 18x10 in the back and 255/35zr/18 bridgestone potenza's on 18x9
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There are adjustable perch LCA's, but don't recommend them myself. I think you should start with my post #7 above...
1st choice: UPR Pro-series adjustable poly/spherical LCA's (no link as site is down ATM)
2nd choice: Maximum Motorsports solid poly/spherical LCA:
![Image]()
This will allow you to remove the quad-shocks and get some bind out of your rear axle. I would recommend UCA's as well, but prefer the UPR ones and cannot link ATM
Jazzer says trick or treat
1st choice: UPR Pro-series adjustable poly/spherical LCA's (no link as site is down ATM)
2nd choice: Maximum Motorsports solid poly/spherical LCA:
This will allow you to remove the quad-shocks and get some bind out of your rear axle. I would recommend UCA's as well, but prefer the UPR ones and cannot link ATM
Jazzer says trick or treat
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Don't be so hard on yourself. You do have to disconnect the shocks and struts to change the springs, so yes, it would have been easier to change them while he had them disconnected, and yes, he will have to disconnect them again, so you weren't totally wrong.
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get struts and shocks together. if your trying to get a little of both worlds id go with a twin tube adjustable. id recommend the koni yellows(2 way adjustables are great if you have the money) or the tokicos.
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I got a great deal on my tokico "blues" and i love 'em, also look into new beefier ball joints, like the steeda X-2's, and offset steering rack bushings. They all work together to correct the new steering geometry of a lowered car and help you get the most out of your new suspension mods.
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