So far for suspension I only have H&R Race Springs and CC plates. I wanted to know what I would get the most out of lower control arms, shocks & struts, or a bumpsteer kit. My mods are in my garage and I don't have any real goals for my car just your average bolt on street driven gt.
Which suspension parts should get changed first?
moneygreenstang
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1,295 Posts
the x-2 ball joint are a great part to have on lowered vehicles. just be sure to use the spacers on the springs when installing them...
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60 Posts
For sure, if you don't use the spacers it drops the front end another 0.5"! Would look sweet as hell, but that would drop mine to about 2.1" (good bye front bumper!):yes
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723 Posts
Alright I bought a set tokico blues, the UPR pro series lowers, and I'm looking for a deal on those ball joints. For uppers should I go some something adjustable?
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3,051 Posts
No need for adjustables with average bolt on power. You will not need to change the pinion angle. If you do decide you want adjustables pm me. I just took mine (upr double adjustable sphericals) back off. I can give you a good deal.
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1,295 Posts
dont forget the bumpsteer. For the ball joints: buy them from Jegs, but before you call do a search on google and find a cheaper price for them to match. i did this when i bought mine and itll save you a few bucks while still getting the great service from jegs. I do that with all my Summit/Jegs orders...
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5,803 Posts
I'm entirely too lazy to look at your garage, so I'll just throw in my 2 pennies...
I think a lot of people overlook such things as subframes, as well as shock tower and strut tower bracing. (Yes, I know this thread isn't necessarily about that, but hey, it's tied together, eh?) Considering that you have a convertible, if I were you I'd do everything I could think of to stiffen up thine chassis. Oh. And I almost forgot. Tubular K member. If you already have these mods, I apologize for my insolence.
<3
I think a lot of people overlook such things as subframes, as well as shock tower and strut tower bracing. (Yes, I know this thread isn't necessarily about that, but hey, it's tied together, eh?) Considering that you have a convertible, if I were you I'd do everything I could think of to stiffen up thine chassis. Oh. And I almost forgot. Tubular K member. If you already have these mods, I apologize for my insolence.
<3
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1,295 Posts
good info here. im assuming you dont have the cash to do everything at once. if thats the case id straighten out your current problems first. Get the bumpsteer, and previously mentioned parts first. Then when you wanna do more work look into chassis stiffening. be careful with welded in subframes though because they can get in the way of lots of other future installs... other than that subframe connectors are a MUST
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8,048 Posts
moneygreen, I recommend you consider this offer, as any NON adjustable UCA will introduce lots of bind in rear axle. You just got rid of a whole bunch with poly/spherical LCA's, so don't go solid poly/poly UCA's and please...
Jazzer
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723 Posts
I found some inexpensive strut tower braces so I could order one of those this week. As for all the other parts except the UCA's i ordered and they should be here next week. Now I need to order a new engine so I can make use of all this suspension work
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1,295 Posts
5.4...:yes
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STB?.... meh
Spend your $$$ on UCA's as you will get MUCH more out of them instead :yes
Jazzer
Spend your $$$ on UCA's as you will get MUCH more out of them instead :yes
Jazzer
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22,072 Posts
?moneygreen, I recommend you consider this offer, as any NON adjustable UCA will introduce lots of bind in rear axle.
...
Jazzer
Adjusting the length of the UCA isn't what's gonna free up bind, it's having the right bushing material. If you insist on keeping the UCAs, either stay with stock soft rubber bushings, or go spherical. NEVER go poly in the UCA's!
Think about the path of travel of the axle mount versrus the chassis mount of the UCA - as it goes through jounce and roll, the angles of the two mounts don't stay parellel. It's this difference in angle the causes the necessity for bushing deflection.
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1,616 Posts
Yeah not sure if you have Sub Frame Connectors already. That should be first. After that, you should get some shocks and struts to match those springs. H&R Race springs are pretty stiff. There isn't much stiffer, you need a set of shocks that match that spring rate. After you have that it really depends on your goals. If you just want a decent all round ride quality, you don't need much else. If you want to go further, you kind of need to choose a direction. Drag strip or Handling, and how far do you want to go?
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723 Posts
I do have full length subframe connectors
UPR LCA's
Steeda Bumpsteer and Balljoints
I ordered Tokico Blue Shocks but no struts. I am glad I didn't order my struts because last night I blew my engine so while its out I can go coilover and maybe a tubular K-member depending on how much I have to pay for the new engine
UPR LCA's
Steeda Bumpsteer and Balljoints
I ordered Tokico Blue Shocks but no struts. I am glad I didn't order my struts because last night I blew my engine so while its out I can go coilover and maybe a tubular K-member depending on how much I have to pay for the new engine
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8,048 Posts
Read the post I was quoting, silly :tomato
The ones neverfastenough1 has for sale are double-adjustable spherical UCA's :yes I have never seen a non-adjustable spherical UCA :no
Jazzer... gittin' riled up
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1,295 Posts
wow, that sucks! sorry to hear that man. a blown engine is like a death in the family... now the 5.4 talks are gonna start to get more serious...
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