I need lots of help here guys. I've read lots and lots of threads and they have helped alot. I want to run 12 flat -12.3 in my 05 gt mustang. The car is also my DD. I need a f/i build. I'm thinking about 2.6 kenne belle blower 10psi, boost a pump, eletric water pump, driveshaft, u and l control arms. I'm looking for builds where all the parts are capatable. Its mostly a street car. Mabe a centri blower will work i don't know. Come on guys help me with some builds. I would really appreciate it.
road to 12 flat
PEACOCK
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
Joined
·
3,615 Posts
Juco.... I am not happy with you... I didn't cause the failure this time... but I did learn from it... 200 passes all summer and not very many above 12.0..
blower or No2 and a good tune... stay under 500 and she will last for a while and just plan on upgrading in a year or so.. and know it could break at any time and the chances get better the harder you drive it
blower or No2 and a good tune... stay under 500 and she will last for a while and just plan on upgrading in a year or so.. and know it could break at any time and the chances get better the harder you drive it
Joined
·
2,126 Posts
I do ALL my own work...
You also missed the point of wear and things breaking...
so, you are going to drop the clutch at 5K and speedshift while spraying on USED/Cheap parts... driveshaft... wow...
God bless you.That is STUPID, and you know it, b/c you tried defending that part of your statement.
No one I stated in my first post did it cheap, they bought quality new parts, good combo's; thus the savings. BIG difference.
And will not last very long.There are new name brand parts with flaws, etc... you are going to risk the safety of yourself and others on junk.
and .. add up all the gas used going back and forth to autozone to get this clamp, that busing, etc and the time wasted getting the 'cheap used' stuff to fit 'right'. Add it all up...
12.0 consistant, on a daily driver, and full interior, safe to hop in at the drop of a hat, drive 1000k, and back, etc. will NOT be done for under 3K.
Period!
Joined
·
9,180 Posts
^That makes A LOT of sense. IMO, the best way to save money on a build in the long run besides buying new parts is to keep tabs on how people like parts that you want so you know to either buy them or look into other brands.
It almost seems easier and cheaper to trade mine in buy a shelby 500 and get a tune on it. i'm not gonna do that though cause i like the gt. Here's what i've put togather from research and peoples help. KB 2.6 blower with the boost a pump and intercooler injectors etc.
10 psi pully 180* therostat
brisk silver racing spark plugs
steeda tri-ax shifter
CHE upper and lower contol arms with adjustable upper arm and steel upper mount.
1 piece Dynatech driveshaft
thumperrr racing tensioner
lower conrol arm relocation brackets by steeda
how does that sound? do i need more suspension and what size tires? i take it the stock size isn't wide enough.
10 psi pully 180* therostat
brisk silver racing spark plugs
steeda tri-ax shifter
CHE upper and lower contol arms with adjustable upper arm and steel upper mount.
1 piece Dynatech driveshaft
thumperrr racing tensioner
lower conrol arm relocation brackets by steeda
how does that sound? do i need more suspension and what size tires? i take it the stock size isn't wide enough.
Joined
·
9,180 Posts
It is WAY easier to get a GT500 and put a tune on it. It already has the supercharger, built bottom end, good fuel system, and built transmission.
That mod list sounds good to me, but I'll let others chime in as I'm not very experienced about suspension setups with F/I cars. I'll say one thing though, some F/I guys run with stock suspension, but it's always good to be upgraded.
Joined
·
2,126 Posts
GT500 pumps better, safer... and can pick up plug n play sets for 500$ ish now.
Headers? X pipe? Mufflers?
larger resovoir to make sure if going to be daily driver
be sure to find a GOOD tuner!!
save for clutch, and rebuild of synchros...
CHE K brace w/ tensioners
what gears?
which tb you gonna run?
gauges? at least oil pres/temp/ and a/f
springs? if lowered need adj panhard bar and relocation brackets
tire sizes; on stockers or ??
... all I can think of for now...
Joined
·
87,804 Posts
Are you blind? I never said it could be done for under $3k, and i also never said to buy stuff that is beat to ****, or stuff that is cheap garbage.I do ALL my own work...
You also missed the point of wear and things breaking...
so, you are going to drop the clutch at 5K and speedshift while spraying on USED/Cheap parts... driveshaft... wow...
That is STUPID, and you know it, b/c you tried defending that part of your statement.
No one I stated in my first post did it cheap, they bought quality new parts, good combo's; thus the savings. BIG difference.
And will not last very long.There are new name brand parts with flaws, etc... you are going to risk the safety of yourself and others on junk.
and .. add up all the gas used going back and forth to autozone to get this clamp, that busing, etc and the time wasted getting the 'cheap used' stuff to fit 'right'. Add it all up...
12.0 consistant, on a daily driver, and full interior, safe to hop in at the drop of a hat, drive 1000k, and back, etc. will NOT be done for under 3K.
Period!
I wouldn't do that and I wouldn't expect somebody else to.
You are just being ignorant to prove your point. There is nothing wrong with used parts in good condition.
I never said to use cheap parts, I said to find used stuff in GOOD CONDITION or catch stuff when it's ON SALE.
I wouldn't buy a driveshaft that has 300 track passes on it, more like one on a mild street car who swapped for a 6060, there is nothing wrong with that and you know it.
Just because it took you $10k+ to run those times doesn't mean it can't be done.
I mean ****, JPC ran 10s with a bolt on, nitrous car on slicks, a car with those mods would run low 12s all day long, reliably.
Joined
·
2,126 Posts
JPC is a shop you idiot, and vendor... Think McFly, think....
Did you have said driveshaft x'd for welds, balanced?? REALLY, did you??
It is you being ignorant... do you even know what ignorant really means? google and get back to me kid...
BTW...
10K.... i WISH!!
...good, keep doing what you do... wallow in YOUR pool of ignorance. Im trying to help you/anyone; being honest to what it takes.
you are so right, Im wrong. I dont know anything about these cars, anything.
Ill leave you to your speaking of experience and time proven techniques.
Im looking forward to your timeslips now, and next year at this time...
Joined
·
87,804 Posts
If you can't hold a debate without slinging childish insults, then I am done with you.
To the OP, do some research on the subject, and you will see that it's entirely possible.
And to reply to your edit, who gives a **** if JPC is a shop and a vendor? The only thing they did that he couldn't do is install gears, and tune the car.
To the OP, do some research on the subject, and you will see that it's entirely possible.
And to reply to your edit, who gives a **** if JPC is a shop and a vendor? The only thing they did that he couldn't do is install gears, and tune the car.
355 gears for now may go to 373 if i have to
need advice on gauges
tire size i dont have any idea. i think the stock rims aren't wide enough are they?
clutch is being looked into
probably going to stanghi for tune
haven't looked into exhaust yet what do you suggest?
Joined
·
87,804 Posts
No, but you won't be able to run as high of boost because with higher boost comes heat, and high IAT are no good.
For what you want to do, you definitely want to go with an intercooler.
For gauges, you want a fuel pressure, boost, and a wideband air/fuel sensor.
If you are going forced induction, you will want headers, because the stock manifolds create a bottle neck. Kooks are the way to go, they are a lot more expensive than others, but the fit and finish is second to none.
Joined
·
2,126 Posts
Daily driver in southern Mississippi... yea, not worth it; later upgrading you'll wish you had purchased the entire kit at once.
or, could try a small N20 shot, or Meth to cool AIT's.
Joined
·
3,095 Posts
I agree...I have about $10,000 in parts and another $5000 in set after set of crappy spark plugs (before i got the Brisks), tuning, belts (thank god I got that figured out)...but I can indeed get in my car at any time and drive it across the country. With the wife and kid in the car. Just made the 1550-ish mile trip back from Biloxi last week. And yes, I should be breaking 11s on my setup, but not quite there yet...I'll see what happens once I get a new clutch in her...it's starting to smell pretty burnt after 51,000 miles and 200+ passes.
Seems like it's pretty easy to get hard-to-believe time slips from the east coast, maybe have to take a trip out there sometime. I think my F-150 on 35s can run 11s at Englishtown or Cecil...
Joined
·
3,095 Posts
Rich has ran strong with the least amount of money? Are we talking no rules here?
Redfire is right, i got a freind with gt, cai, tune, and a 100 shot running 12.4s ON STOCK PIRELLIS. I beleive thats around 2k right there. Add some long tubes, 4.10s, and better tires, and then see what happens.
Redfire is right, i got a freind with gt, cai, tune, and a 100 shot running 12.4s ON STOCK PIRELLIS. I beleive thats around 2k right there. Add some long tubes, 4.10s, and better tires, and then see what happens.
I got bad news for you. Plenty of stock mustangs run 13.8s and 14.1s at cecil county every wednesday and friday night just like everywhere else in the country. I have yet to see anyone run better then a 13.8 in a stock stang in cecil county, which sounds pretty common. But you come on out.
Joined
·
142 Posts
with the mods in my sig I have ran the time in my sig, a 12.4, and I only spent right at $3000...full weight...I also had a 20 mph headwind coming at me and my hood was being fixed so it was off and was making me catch even more air...to give you an idea of how much drag I was getting I trapped more last season with just a tune/intake combo on the same ET Streets...I should be close to the 12.0-12.2 range on motor with right at $3000...so it can be done
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
