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Lowering GT, Best Route To Go???

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#21 ·
Novanutcase said:
Coilover kit.....then you can tailor it to the exact ride height you're looking for!!!

BTW I'm in Los Feliz next to Griffith Park so I'm close to you.........

John
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A coil over setup would be great but I am happy with my drop, I was just wondering because usually Eibachs don't look that low.
 
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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Novanutcase said:
Coilover kit.....then you can tailor it to the exact ride height you're looking for!!!

BTW I'm in Los Feliz next to Griffith Park so I'm close to you.........

John
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Do you know of anyone personally that does good work to install the setup i'm looking to do around here? I called a spot here in Burbank close to me and he wanted $450 for the install and $80 for an alignment which is ridiculously overpriced. Thanks
 
#23 ·
i didnt feel like reading all the responses here so im just gonna give you my opinion and experience with suspension.

The best thing you can do is get a nice set of McPherson struts with good springs. Koni makes great stuff here with the Koni yellows and so does Tokico with their D specs. Even if you do decide to keep the springs in the stock location you will still wanna get a good set of shocks/struts to match the increased spring rate. without the added dampening capability of good shocks and struts your new springs will bounce you down the road. you'll notice this in both ride quality and performance. now that you have your springs and struts/shocks(hopefully coil-overs) your definitely wanna grab a set of C/C plates. There is no question that Maximum Motorsports makes the best set. Anyone who argues this is, well, just wrong plain and simple. The MM plates are a 4 bolt design which is an absolute MUST and they are the best in show. you'll also want to get a nice bumpsteer kit to correct your cars geometry and maybe the Steeda X2 extended length ball joints to assist with this also. Steeda makes a good bumpsteer some does MM.

The thing to gain from this is that you dont want to piece you suspension together one thing at a time. Your gonna end up hurting yourself and costing yourself more money in replaced parts that end up getting overpowered by your new upgrades. What ive listed above should be looked at as the bare minimum by anyone who want to correctly lower their ride height while improving cornering and performance. When it come to the performance side of things your gonna have a lot of options and the only way to make sound decisions is to start with a vision of what you want from your car. Before you do anything or buy anything you have to know where you want to go with this mustang in the long run. Straight line or cornering? boost or N/A? etc etc etc. For suspension this applies as well. if you want to make a dedicated straight line drag car your gonna want to look into drag springs. if you want to take the twisties a little faster and with less body roll your gonna need to know that before you can buy anything. Ive given you a nice guideline here for lowering alone, but if you let me know what it is you want to do with this car everyone here could better assist you.
 
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#24 ·
wrr1020 said:
Do you know of anyone personally that does good work to install the setup i'm looking to do around here? I called a spot here in Burbank close to me and he wanted $450 for the install and $80 for an alignment which is ridiculously overpriced. Thanks
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i can tell you everything you need to know to install this stuff. it is a fairly easy job to do springs and struts/shocks. c/c plates are a breeze too. please consider saving yourself a lot of money here. i have a great writeup that i personally did for americanmuscle.com for the max motorsports c/c plates that you can check out. id be happy to help you through the rest of the parts as well.
 
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#26 ·
i have the prokit and i love it sometimes i wish that the front was a little lower but overall i love it! WAY better than stock

i took out my isos

i have no cc plates and its fine

and as far as the install... grab a buddy and print the instructions off of american muscle or some other website and do it yourself... its not that hard at all and u can save a lot of money! all u might have to do is rent a spring compressor from autozone like i did...
 
#28 ·
I am in the process of getting a set of 1" to 1.2" Ford spring drop. I don't want to drop it too much because the roads out here can suck sometimes. And I don't want it MUCH lower... just a tad. That way I also wont have to buy CC plates.
 
#29 ·
c/c plates are a great thing to have. even with stock suspension there is something to gain from them. whether you go to the track or just drive like an idiot you can probably benefit from the adjustability they provide. with a lowered car they are especially important to have in combination with a bumpsteer kit. the last thing you want is toe. toe is gonna eat the hell out of your tires, not necessarily camber. camber is not a tire wearing angle, TOE is.

Get c/c plates. if your gonna do your suspension you have to do it right. if you dont your hurting yourself. putting springs on and leaving it is worse off. be smart about it. as your car sits now the suspension is well balanced. it is important to maintain that balance while adding performance parts anywhere on the car.
 
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#31 ·
quiksilver225 said:
c/c plates are a great thing to have. even with stock suspension there is something to gain from them. whether you go to the track or just drive like an idiot you can probably benefit from the adjustability they provide. with a lowered car they are especially important to have in combination with a bumpsteer kit. the last thing you want is toe. toe is gonna eat the hell out of your tires, not necessarily camber. camber is not a tire wearing angle, TOE is.

Get c/c plates. if your gonna do your suspension you have to do it right. if you dont your hurting yourself. putting springs on and leaving it is worse off. be smart about it. as your car sits now the suspension is well balanced. it is important to maintain that balance while adding performance parts anywhere on the car.
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CC plates are nice, and do help. But are not always NEEDED to get a good alignment with springs that don't lower it more than 1" or 1.2" Meaning they wont adversely effect your car without them. Any more of a drop (Which most people do do ..) and you'll NEED CC plates.
 
#32 ·
goren420 said:
My car is 1.75" lower than stock at the side skirt. That's noticeably more than stock by far.
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I stand corrected, I guess i just have not seen a set with the pros like yours. I like the look it has a nice stance.
 
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#33 ·
wrr1020 said:
Since i already have a thread going do i need any special tools for the mach 1 grill delete kit. I heard the 4 screws under the grill thats connected to the bumper is the hardest part of this install. What's the best way to get those out and exactly what tool would i need. I'm a noob when it comes to working on cars, i have never worked on one in my life so this is the first car i'm gonna do small jobs on. My toolbox consists of a few screwdrivers and a set of wrenches, yes it's sad. Would these tools suffice for the grill delete install or will i need something else. Thanks guys
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How To Install Mach 1 Grille Delete | AutoHow.TV

here is an installation video i found and what tools you need to get the job done
 
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#34 ·
Ke^in said:
CC plates are nice, and do help. But are not always NEEDED to get a good alignment with springs that don't lower it more than 1" or 1.2" Meaning they wont adversely effect your car without them. Any more of a drop (Which most people do do ..) and you'll NEED CC plates.
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What's bolded is what I disagree with. You can get within factory spec, yes, whether or not those specs are right for how you drive the car is arguable.

If you drive aggressively in anything but a straight line, the factory specs are NOT good. Just look at your front tires - if your outside edges are more worn that the rest of the tire, you need more camber.
 
#35 ·
ReverendDexter said:
What's bolded is what I disagree with. You can get within factory spec, yes, whether or not those specs are right for how you drive the car is arguable.
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I am speaking about a daily driver. Even a daily driver off the lot isn't good enough for some of the high performance maneuvering that goes on in such competitions. I realize that.
If you drive aggressively in anything but a straight line, the factory specs are NOT good. Just look at your front tires - if your outside edges are more worn that the rest of the tire, you need more camber.
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My tires aren't disproportionally wearing no.
 
#36 ·
Yeah, that's why I said arguable. For me, the way I drive, and the commute I have, with factory alignment specs, I wear the crap out of the outside edge of my tires. And that's with stock springs/ride height.

If you can get away with it, cool. Maybe I'm more in the minority than I thought? :dunno
 
#37 ·
No prob Danny thanks for the compliment ...

For the question about spacers on the x2's.... do you mean the spacers on the bumpsteer kit? Those are on the tie rod ends not the ball joints. Right now I think I only have one down and the rest up, I want to mess with it to try and eliminate the rubbing issues I have at full hard cornering.
 
#38 ·
I run stock shocks/struts/and no CC plates on H&R's and it SUCKKKKKS. My shocks are blown, and the car needs the CC plates... they are my next mods for sure.. any shock/strut guru's please chime in or PM me about my best round to go for a decent price.
 
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#39 ·
ReverendDexter said:
Yeah, that's why I said arguable. For me, the way I drive, and the commute I have, with factory alignment specs, I wear the crap out of the outside edge of my tires. And that's with stock springs/ride height.

If you can get away with it, cool. Maybe I'm more in the minority than I thought? :dunno
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I take the curves kinda fast too, and I never have wear problems. *shrug*
 
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quiksilver225
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