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!!!!Bleeding BRAKES HELLLLP!!!!

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8t6gt

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Im trying to bleed my brakes and I bled them to the procedures in the instructions. RR, RF, LR, LF And they still are shitty

I had to bleed the front two by the lines since the bleeders are corroded to the damn caliper. But why would that make a difference? Ive done that tons of times while bleeding and never had an issue doing it through the lines.

I then bled the top two bleeders on the master cylinder and nothing.

It will pump up if you pump the hell out of it but as soon as you quit pumping and wait a few second and hit it again it will go right back to the floor.

My dad tried to get the bleeder open and snapped one off so now hes gotta fix it tomorrow at work. So Im kinda ****ed right now anyway. Im so close to just saying **** it and buying Cobra calipers
 
#4 ·
Bleeding is RR, LR, RF LF. You start the farthest from the master and work your way to it.
 
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#5 ·
F8L GT said:
Bleeding is RR, LR, RF LF. You start the farthest from the master and work your way to it.
Click to expand...
+ 1

also, are you getting good ammounts of fluid out? If not, you may have degraded flexible brake lines. Cobra calipers are FTW as well. Make sure you get the cobra brake lines or you will have a :( when they don't bolt up.
 
#6 ·
F8L GT said:
Bleeding is RR, LR, RF LF. You start the farthest from the master and work your way to it.
Click to expand...
thats how i was taught to bleed brakes as well...

&&just do the cobra calipers/rotors. you wont be sorry :cool:
but...i dont understand whats different about the lines ? when i did my swap all i got was calipers and rotors. nothing more. i unthreaded the fitting that goes directly into the GT caliper and it re-threaded right onto the Cobra calipers.
 
#9 ·
are there any good step by step manuals for bleeding the master cylinder? i keep hearing about having to "bench bleed" the master cylinder if it comes down to actually having to do it. Is this correct or does bleeding it by the 2 bleeder screws on the bottom like a few people have said work?? please let me know if anyone can give me some tips, ill be doing this in a few weeks.
 
#10 ·
yes, you will have to bench bleed it first in a vise. Make sure that any shipping goo has been cleaned from the piston area there the pushrod goes in. (I had an issue with a stickey shipping substance being in there and not letting the piston return all the way to home base. Until I got that piston issue resolved, it wouldnt properly bleed)

If you dont have a vise, you can bolt it into the car and have a buddy help you out by pumping the brakes while you hold the tubes in the reservoir. The help aisle at the auto part store may sell a bleeding help kit with some clips on it that would let you do it by yourself. You would have to rig a mirror up so you can see when it is properly bled (no bubbles) when you're pumping.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Hey guys, sorry to resurect this again but, I am about to bleed my brakes soon to put on my Roush/Alcon big brake kit. I just want to make sure I got some of the sequences right. From what I have heard I thought bleeding the master cylinder (by the 2 bleed screws) and then the RR, LR, RF, LF was correct? Should I follow this way or bleed them like advised above where one should bleed all the wheels first and then the master cylinder? Let me know what is the best way to go about doing this.

Also, Ive never bled the master cylinder by the bleed screws. Is it the same process as the wheels? (pump up to get pressure, press and hold pedal while one of the bleeder screws is opened, then close the screw before letting pedal go, and repeat). And which screw should be bled first? The one closest to the firewall or the one closest to the battery, or can they be bled at the same time?

Please let me know any info, and thanks in advance! :yes
 
#12 ·
LGHTNG02GT said:
thats how i was taught to bleed brakes as well...

&&just do the cobra calipers/rotors. you wont be sorry :cool:
but...i dont understand whats different about the lines ? when i did my swap all i got was calipers and rotors. nothing more. i unthreaded the fitting that goes directly into the GT caliper and it re-threaded right onto the Cobra calipers.
Click to expand...
same here, just used my gt lines and they worked fine.
 
#13 ·
LGHTNG02GT said:
thats how i was taught to bleed brakes as well...

&&just do the cobra calipers/rotors. you wont be sorry :cool:
but...i dont understand whats different about the lines ? when i did my swap all i got was calipers and rotors. nothing more. i unthreaded the fitting that goes directly into the GT caliper and it re-threaded right onto the Cobra calipers.
Click to expand...
+1 Just did mine yesterday. Didnt even need the banjo bolts everyone worries about, the stock GT lines/banjo bolts swapped over just fine.
 
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#14 ·
Don't y'all use clamps? ...Gotta clamp off those hoses, keeps the air out....Snap on has a cool set (at least that's where I got mine...don't know who else carries them...)

Next time Sug, use clamps. :yes
 
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#15 ·
Oh HELL! and have ya checked your lines? any leaks? and how does the seals look on your calipers and MC?
How much fluid have ya "lost"?
 
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Triton03
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