point of blowing

Shaun13GT/CS · Mar 12, 2011

12psi with 11* of timing is easier on the motor vs 10psi and 15-16* of timing.

Basically you want a nice conservative tune. 11.5-11.8:1 AFR, no more then 16* of timing. And 9-11lbs of boost is pretty safe on the stock motor.

40thAnnivGT · Mar 12, 2011

Yeah mine blew at 13lbs and 411rwhp, hot on a Mustang dyno. I was told that if I had an hour of cool-down time, it would have been around 430rwhp (~460ish rwhp on a dynojet). They also say they think their dyno was out of calibration at the time as well because of a different car they did work too, barely made a difference (+10rwhp) after a head/cam swap (C6 Vette). Mine was also on 14* of total timing. 11.2-11.8 A/F

WhiteVenom · Mar 12, 2011

IMO dont push over 390rwhp unless you got 3500 bucks sitting in the bank for a forged build at any given time.

Kevin C · Mar 12, 2011

I may as well start saving for an 03-04 Cobra long block, along with the T56 I'm looking for right now. I know as soon as I can afford to do the On 3 Performance single turbo kit, I'll want to be in boost constantly, and run 10 PSI. They claim 440 RWHP @ 10 PSI on an otherwise stock 2002 GT.

I think going the turbo route would be the only way to break 450 RWHP on a stock 99-04GT long block with bolt ons, due to less parasitic loss. Don't know. It's about efficiency, as mentioned in an earlier post. Instead of turning up the boost, there are options like head porting, cams, full bolt ons, even a more efficient drivetrain. Aluminum flywheel, aluminum driveshaft. The gains would be miniscule, but do add up. If the thing can breathe, you're not building up as much cylinder pressure, and running the risk of detonation.

Threads like this sort of scare me about wanting to do a turbo build later this year, when On 3 Performance releases their new kit. Guess I'll have to be responsible until it isn't a DD.

stal94gt · Mar 12, 2011

blowing motors is part of modding cars. it happens, if someone is not willing to take the risk or does not have the money to fix a car when it breaks then this is not the sport to be in. i have blow 3 motors in my life, which is not many considering how much i have raced in the past 14 years but i learned early that it is a risk that happens. many people get sucked into the hype of horse power and performance parts but building a high hp car takes time and dedication, and oh yeah the most important one money.

Kevin C · Mar 12, 2011

I hope that isn't aimed towards me. I'm aware that blowing engines happens when you push something, but the Mustang is my DD for now. So if anything at all, I'd rather build than have it blow, that way it's expected down time.

This is why my POS Camaro is sitting in the garage with a couple rods that let go at a little above 6,000 RPM. One engine down.

I don't know what I want, but I've narrowed it down to either a bike, or a truck. 04-06 R1, or an 03-07 Ram 2500, 5.9 Cummins. Besides being on the look out for a T56, my spending will be dormant this year. This winter, On 3 Performance releases their new kit that includes turbo headers, and I'll be picking up a second DD, so I can push the Mustang a little more.

stal94gt · Mar 12, 2011

it was just a general statment. building cars is a hobbie and it is real easy to get carried away. i for one have learned that life is full of good things and focusing on a car is cool but it can suck the life out of you

Kevin C · Mar 12, 2011

I'd be glad to let a car suck the life out of me, because pushing 120+ at the top of 4th puts some life right back in me.

MATT02GT · Mar 12, 2011

:withhomo

If anything the Stang, and the whole car scene at that breathe some life back into me :yes. Winter gets depressing

Also if Im not buying car parts, the money seems to go to bar tabs and other stupid stuff like that lol

Bullitt5566 · Mar 12, 2011

I may be pushing my short block at 400+, but my car isn't my daily driver and I have the money on hand to rebuild the engine if it goes. I bought my 13k Mustang instead of new 20K+ car specifically with modding it in mind.

Eagle2000GT · Mar 12, 2011

Rules of modding (courtesy of Stal and Eagle).

1. There will alway be better, faster cars,
2. Never mod with borrowed money, and
3. Don't push it to the limit unless you have the time and money to rebuild.

When I was younger I didn't follow these rules. All of these cars were daily drivers. I blew up a 426 wedge (anti-freeze in the oil). I had to re-finance the car to put a used 440 in it. I blew up a 350 in a '69 Camaro SS (over rev'ed the motor). I couldn't refinance. I had to car pool to work and hitch rides everywhere else until I saved enough money to buy a used 305. I blew up a 4 cylinder Pinto. (power shifting). Had just enough savings to replace the motor and transmission that weekend. Drove the car to work on Monday.

I have discovered that I do not like walking because I broke the car and can't fix it. I don't like getting deeper in debt owing more than the car is worth just to fix it. And, it makes the wife very unhappy when I use up our entire savings to fix a car I broke.

There are three kinds of people:
1. Those that listen and learn,
2. Those that learn the hard way, and
3. Those that never learn.

I would never recommend to anyone to push their daily driver above 400 rwhp. And, please remind me of this if I start yielding to the tempation to "just" change a pulley on my car.

P.S. I used to think I fell in category 2. Since I've bought the Mustang my wife is convinced its really category 3.

limited · Mar 12, 2011

I agree on not pushing the limits on a dd.

My car does sit alot now,mainly because I have 5 other rides.I also have the pieces to put a forged stroker together but it would still suck to blow it during the good weather months when I do use it

Trick Tuners · Mar 12, 2011

Shaun03GT said:
12psi with 11* of timing is easier on the motor vs 10psi and 15-16* of timing.

Basically you want a nice conservative tune. 11.5-11.8:1 AFR, no more then 16* of timing. And 9-11lbs of boost is pretty safe on the stock motor.

I would take 10 psi with more timing any day of the week over 12 psi and only 11* timing.

saxmanJJ · Mar 12, 2011

Part of the problem is that there are very few fokkers out there that know how to tune our cars properly when forced induction is added to the mix. I'm convinced that 90% of the tuners out there don't know their stuff, yet ask them about what they know and they'll all tell you that they've done it a hundred times and that they're f'ing tuning geniuses. (I'm not belittling what tuners do, because I'm sure it takes a bunch of knowledge and thought on their part). They don't have any respect for their customer's hard earned money either. They figure if they put a bad tune on the car and you blow it up, that you will just come right back to them and give them more work (and more hard earned money) to fix things. Wrong! They should empathize with their customers - how would the customer feel if they drop 5000 dollars to supercharge and tune their car, only to have it blow the shortblock in a few months (or maybe right there on their dyno). That customer is not going to have a good feeling about that shop and they might let everyone know about their bad experience.

End of rant.

jonwrong · Mar 12, 2011

I hate to be the one to say it, but there are at least a dozen treads on this issue.

:SIGH:

With that said, my car has been at this level (check sig) for many years without issue. I have seen no bearing material in any oil changes or any signs of wear. Compression was checked a few months back and was still dead on. I think under 400 wHP and WTQ keeps you golden.

blownstang · Mar 12, 2011

Shaun03GT said:
12psi with 11* of timing is easier on the motor vs 10psi and 15-16* of timing.

How so? Im with Trick Tuners on this one. Im running 9psi with 15.75 degrees non,intercooled. Would never run 12psi no matter what timing.

Eagle2000GT · Mar 12, 2011

jonwrong said:
I hate to be the one to say it, but there are at least a dozen treads on this issue.

:SIGH:

With that said, my car has been at this level (check sig) for many years without issue. I have seen no bearing material in any oil changes or any signs of wear. Compression was checked a few months back and was still dead on. I think under 400 wHP and WTQ keeps you golden.

Don't you have over 60,000 supercharged miles on your car? That's with a twin-screw. I've got over 65,000 supercharged miles on mine with a centri.

You are correct. Multiple threads. Yet there is still this hanging belief that you can safely go to 450 rwhp or even 500 rwhp as the OP suggested. Some myths are hard to kill because people want to believe it beyond all reason.

ford6693 · Mar 12, 2011

well i started this thread not because i believe one way or the other. just because, with the internet, there is a lot he said she said.
i wanted to hear about the people who actually blew their engines. real data you know?

opinions are like...
fact is priceless

limited · Mar 12, 2011

there are so many variables that can contribute to a blown motor, I have a completely stock windsor in my garage with a spun rod bearing so even people who blew their engines are going to be at all different power levels

If you look at the power levels people are running in this thread(not opinions) you will get a good idea on what WILL work

jonwrong · Mar 12, 2011

Eagle2000GT said:
Don't you have over 60,000 supercharged miles on your car? That's with a twin-screw. I've got over 65,000 supercharged miles on mine with a centri.

You are correct. Multiple threads. Yet there is still this hanging belief that you can safely go to 450 rwhp or even 500 rwhp as the OP suggested. Some myths are hard to kill because people want to believe it beyond all reason.

Yes, over 60k with the eaton. I think the centri blower makes you a little more likely to blow up based on CFM. However, if your cooling issues are not under control on positive displacement, you can look to ping more and blow up faster.

I agree that people want to think 450 to 500 is doable. It just isn't for any length of time. If you want to test the theory and have the coin for a built motor, do it. There are always outliers and Wednesday cars out there, but 450whp for 60k miles is only going to work if you go full throttle on the dyno only.

point of blowing

Shaun13GT/CS

40thAnnivGT

WhiteVenom

Kevin C

stal94gt

Kevin C

stal94gt

Kevin C

MATT02GT

Bullitt5566

Eagle2000GT

limited

Trick Tuners

saxmanJJ

jonwrong

blownstang

Eagle2000GT

ford6693

limited

jonwrong

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