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#141 ·
FastStang91Lx said:
The houses with aluminum wire throughout the house have either burned down, or the connections are still tight. The problem was that aluminum has a quicker expansion and contraction rate than copper and the connections are prone to loosening up.
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Is that why you have to put that paste/jelly **** on the connection when you're doing a connection of an aluminum and copper wire? I always knew you needed that on there when you did that, but never really looked into why.
 
#142 ·
Yep, the paste is a anti-oxidizing goo. We have it in two types. The yellowish colored 'snot' and the gray messy stuff that transfers from your hands to everything else like a disease. It reminds me of anti-seize and appears to be the same consistancy and I've always wondered if it's the same. We also have to 'goop' every aluminum connection in panels, meter sockets, equiptment, etc. Basically at every termination point.
 
#143 ·
Oh ok, so it's more for the oxidization issue than it is for the different expanding and contracting rates. I wasn't sure if it was some type of conductive goup that you put on there to help with that.. but I completely forgot how two different metals usually don't like to be in contact with eachother... also probably wouldn't make much sense if it was conductive huh. I can see people accidentally leaving a little hanging out of the cap and it starting a fire. Probably a poor idea, lol.
 
Discussion starter · #145 ·
FastStang91Lx said:
Copper is better at resisting corrosion



The houses with aluminum wire throughout the house have either burned down, or the connections are still tight. The problem was that aluminum has a quicker expansion and contraction rate than copper and the connections are prone to loosening up. And then you have higher resistance, creating heat, and then fire or simply a failed connection point. Also, because the wire has to be larger to do the same job, people would think they could up the breaker size too. The only aluminum wiring allowed in houses now is #8 or larger. The reason it's still used is because it's cheaper to use, but you have to up size it two sizes to get the same amp flow out of it, and that's partially due to it having a higher resistance rate than copper. Aluminum is somewhere around 17.2 per foot and 10.4 for copper. Silver is actually one of the least resistance types of metals, but in higher end electronics things are gold plated because gold is one of the best metals that is resistant to corrosion. Now we have all had our electrical wire lesson for the day. :)
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Lol....ya i knew aluminum wire sucked, I did electrical, plumbing and gas lines(socket and butt fusion) for swimming pools for almost 5 years, and when i say electrical for a pools , I'm not talking about just hooking up a pump and a heater, it was some real big jobs with sub panels, 6 pumps 2 heaters inside controllers and tons of other ****, and then i left and worked for a real electrical company building a library and converting some apartment over to some high end condos for about 6 months then me and my supervisor had some words, that ended my electrical career...lol but learning what i did, helped me a little with the hvac
 
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Discussion starter · #146 ·
Well today, i made arrangements to possibly barrow a cherry picker next weekend. ( hopefully that come through)

I also repainted, my water pump pulley and crank pulley,A/C bracket, and i sanded and painted my smog tube that connects to the back of my heads....I know, i know, why did i paint the smog tube, because it was ugly as hell and i was bored.(even though only about 5% of it will be seen when engine is fulley assembled) Its the the best looking smog tube Ive ever seen now...lol

one of these days ill post some pic , but im really lazy..lol
 
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Discussion starter · #148 ·
Cloud Nine said:
bu what color are you gonna paint your block
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my block is already painted black.

I'm painting any metal brackets, pulleys ect... basically any thing that's rusty (engine paint gloss black). any thing that's aluminum ill just clean up. The engine is to clean to just through rusty **** back on it. Now I'm not going to go over bored because this is not a show car, but if your going to do any extra prep work this is the time to do it i figure
 
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Discussion starter · #149 ·
Alright today

took off the rest of my accessories and brackets, disconnect fuel lines, unbolted motor mounts. the only thing left to do is take my hood off and hook up a engine hoist and pull it out

I got to say, although this project is time consuming its not as hard as i thought it was going to be. At this point the only thing i think I'm going to need help with is reinstalling my tranny

Oh ya me and my wife just bought tickets to the BIG 4 Concert with SLAYER, METALLICA, MEGADETH, And ANTHRAX. is should be a kick ass show
 
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Discussion starter · #152 ·
After i recoup from the cost of this project, ill send you a plane ticket any ways.... lol
 
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Discussion starter · #158 ·
93hatch said:
**** is easy dude, really cant do it wrong
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Ya its not to bad...

I cant wait till satday ,thats when i get the cherry picker, so ill pull it out sunday if i have time. Then ill spend a little time each day for the next week and a half and clean the engine bay, and rattle can it with some matching paint from krangen oreillys.
 
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#159 ·
Little tip I learned painting my bay the first time around. Use aluminum foil to mask off wires and other odd shaped **** you don't want painted. Between that and painters tape, you can pretty much paint whatever you want and leave the rest the way it is.
 
Discussion starter · #160 ·
thanks ^
 
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FastStang91Lx
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