Ok I will probably be replacing my clutch soon (as far as i know its factory and i have almost 89k miles), and I want to upgrade. I don't really know anything about clutches. My car is a daily driver, but it does see the track. Can you guys help me find the best one for me?
Gonna need a new clutch soon, help me find one!
(Kohrs93)
21 - 36 of 36 Posts
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21,060 Posts
Exactly, I bet itll be fine. I really wouldnt be concerned with the clutch fork. Just over paranoid people.
As far as the flywheel its up to you. If you dont plan on getting an aluminum, just get yours resurfaced. Dont get a billet steel one. They weigh more, and rotating mass affects a lot. The car will feel slower. I got mine resurfaced for $50
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7,889 Posts
Thanks Shaun! You've been a great help. I just want to confirm that i'm looking at the right one. Here's the one i chose:
Centerforce DF021057 - Centerforce Dual Friction Clutches - Overview - SummitRacing.com
And I went to the ford racing website, but the mustang parts site is down. Do you know of anywhere else that i can find the tob and pilot bearing?
EDIT: just found the tob and pilot bearing on AM. Would I have to go to the dealership to get a new cable? Or do you know of any place that sells them online?
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21,060 Posts
NP man. Just use your stock cable. All you have to do is break off the plastic prongs, and pull the rubber thing off. Thats all I did, and good to go.
And yeah I got the FRPP pilot and TOB on AM.
Are you doing the install yourself?
And yeah I got the FRPP pilot and TOB on AM.
Are you doing the install yourself?
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7,889 Posts
Yes, my dad and I will be doing it. What kind of special tools will I need? And I think my stock cable is a little stretched, i have to let my clutch out about halfway before it even begins to engage. So I might as well replace it.
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21,060 Posts
Check Late Model Restoration for a stock cable.
The install is fun to be honest. I wish I could help someone do another one. I can drop the tranny in an hour now. Ill just give you a quick run a round of **** you will need.
Torque Wrench in FT-LBs, Flywheel is 59-64lb, Pressure plate is 25ftlbs
2 foot extension
First thing, get the front of the car up nice and high. Youll need 4 jack stands. Put 1 on each side of the A Arms. Then get the rear up just alittle, so the rear tires are off the ground, if you can get it up more then keep going. I jacked the rear up by the dog bone. Put jack stands on the axles.
Release the e-brake and put car in neutral. Take off shifter, go underneathe, and youll probably need an impact gun on the driveshaft bolts. Their 12mm bolts, just mark the driveshaft so you put it on the right way, it can go on 2 ways, apparently if you put it on the other way itll vibrate but I never had that issue. Unless I guessed both times I put it on the right way.
Then take off the little tray on the transmission, think its a 9 or 10mm screw. Youll see your clutch fork and cable. Pry the clutch fork towards the front of the car, and slip the cable out.
ALSO, I drained my tranny. Its a 3/8 plug, just use a 3/8 ratchet with extension and drain it. Other wise itll keep leaking out the tailshaft, plus its good to change the fluid.
Drop the midpipe
Starter
YAY! Have fun. Its 12mm bolts I think? Or 13mm I cant remember. Theres 3. The first 2 are difficult, I used a tiny 1/4 drive ratchet, and I couldnt get any leverage on it, but still managed to brake it loose. I used a 1/4 drive because I couldnt get a 3/8 in there. On the last bolt, have fun. Its a pain in the ass. Its a bitch of a spot and you need to put a lot of muscle into it. Theres no room.
Then bellhousing bolts, easy all 12mm bolts. Theres 2 directly underneathe, thats what the dust cover bolts too. Then theres 8 more I think. The 2 at the very top arent hard to get too.
I used a 3/8 ratchet. Use a 2 foot extension, a swivel and shallow socket. And its nothing. Then get ready to slide the tranny out. Have to slide it back, then it can be dropped. Make sure you disconnect all the plugs/harnesses.
The tranny weighs like 145lbs, its just an awkward angle to grab it. I put my knee up on the tail shaft, and slid it back, and had the jack waiting for it so I could rest it on there, and lowered the jack as I balanced the tranny on it.
Hope that helps man.
The install is fun to be honest. I wish I could help someone do another one. I can drop the tranny in an hour now. Ill just give you a quick run a round of **** you will need.
Torque Wrench in FT-LBs, Flywheel is 59-64lb, Pressure plate is 25ftlbs
2 foot extension
First thing, get the front of the car up nice and high. Youll need 4 jack stands. Put 1 on each side of the A Arms. Then get the rear up just alittle, so the rear tires are off the ground, if you can get it up more then keep going. I jacked the rear up by the dog bone. Put jack stands on the axles.
Release the e-brake and put car in neutral. Take off shifter, go underneathe, and youll probably need an impact gun on the driveshaft bolts. Their 12mm bolts, just mark the driveshaft so you put it on the right way, it can go on 2 ways, apparently if you put it on the other way itll vibrate but I never had that issue. Unless I guessed both times I put it on the right way.
Then take off the little tray on the transmission, think its a 9 or 10mm screw. Youll see your clutch fork and cable. Pry the clutch fork towards the front of the car, and slip the cable out.
ALSO, I drained my tranny. Its a 3/8 plug, just use a 3/8 ratchet with extension and drain it. Other wise itll keep leaking out the tailshaft, plus its good to change the fluid.
Drop the midpipe
Starter
YAY! Have fun. Its 12mm bolts I think? Or 13mm I cant remember. Theres 3. The first 2 are difficult, I used a tiny 1/4 drive ratchet, and I couldnt get any leverage on it, but still managed to brake it loose. I used a 1/4 drive because I couldnt get a 3/8 in there. On the last bolt, have fun. Its a pain in the ass. Its a bitch of a spot and you need to put a lot of muscle into it. Theres no room.Then bellhousing bolts, easy all 12mm bolts. Theres 2 directly underneathe, thats what the dust cover bolts too. Then theres 8 more I think. The 2 at the very top arent hard to get too.
I used a 3/8 ratchet. Use a 2 foot extension, a swivel and shallow socket. And its nothing. Then get ready to slide the tranny out. Have to slide it back, then it can be dropped. Make sure you disconnect all the plugs/harnesses.
The tranny weighs like 145lbs, its just an awkward angle to grab it. I put my knee up on the tail shaft, and slid it back, and had the jack waiting for it so I could rest it on there, and lowered the jack as I balanced the tranny on it.
Hope that helps man.
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7,889 Posts
Thank you so much! That's deffinately gonna come in handy! Since I have to drop the midpipe, I'm hoping it will last until i can get my longtubes/midpipe as well, so i can do it all at once. NEED MOAR MUNIEZ!!!Check Late Model Restoration for a stock cable.
The install is fun to be honest. I wish I could help someone do another one. I can drop the tranny in an hour now. Ill just give you a quick run a round of **** you will need.
Torque Wrench in FT-LBs, Flywheel is 59-64lb, Pressure plate is 25ftlbs
2 foot extension
First thing, get the front of the car up nice and high. Youll need 4 jack stands. Put 1 on each side of the A Arms. Then get the rear up just alittle, so the rear tires are off the ground, if you can get it up more then keep going. I jacked the rear up by the dog bone. Put jack stands on the axles.
Release the e-brake and put car in neutral. Take off shifter, go underneathe, and youll probably need an impact gun on the driveshaft bolts. Their 12mm bolts, just mark the driveshaft so you put it on the right way, it can go on 2 ways, apparently if you put it on the other way itll vibrate but I never had that issue. Unless I guessed both times I put it on the right way.
Then take off the little tray on the transmission, think its a 9 or 10mm screw. Youll see your clutch fork and cable. Pry the clutch fork towards the front of the car, and slip the cable out.
ALSO, I drained my tranny. Its a 3/8 plug, just use a 3/8 ratchet with extension and drain it. Other wise itll keep leaking out the tailshaft, plus its good to change the fluid.
Drop the midpipe
Starter
Then bellhousing bolts, easy all 12mm bolts. Theres 2 directly underneathe, thats what the dust cover bolts too. Then theres 8 more I think. The 2 at the very top arent hard to get too.
I used a 3/8 ratchet. Use a 2 foot extension, a swivel and shallow socket. And its nothing. Then get ready to slide the tranny out. Have to slide it back, then it can be dropped. Make sure you disconnect all the plugs/harnesses.
The tranny weighs like 145lbs, its just an awkward angle to grab it. I put my knee up on the tail shaft, and slid it back, and had the jack waiting for it so I could rest it on there, and lowered the jack as I balanced the tranny on it.
Hope that helps man.
Joined
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21,060 Posts
Also, get an alignment tool too. So you can line the clutch disc up right. Itll make life 10x easier.
For the Pilot bearing, that sucks to get it out. I forget what I did, I think I cut it out. But you can pack the crankcase with heavy grease, and take a socket that will barley fit in there, and hammer it in. The pressure will make the Pilot bearing pop out. Just remember which way the pilot bearing is supposed to go in. Take a pic to remember it.
For the Pilot bearing, that sucks to get it out. I forget what I did, I think I cut it out. But you can pack the crankcase with heavy grease, and take a socket that will barley fit in there, and hammer it in. The pressure will make the Pilot bearing pop out. Just remember which way the pilot bearing is supposed to go in. Take a pic to remember it.
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7,889 Posts
I was reading up on a guide for installig a spec stage 2 clutch (im assuming its the same process) and i saw that the guy had a pilot bearing removal tool. I might look into that as well
Joined
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21,060 Posts
Yeah try that too. Pilot bearing sucks. Just make sure you have an alignment tool. Itll make it a lot easier man. Any questions feel free to PM me.
Ford Racing clutch fork: 1994-04 Mustang Clutch Fork for 5 & 6 Speed by Ford Racing at LRS - Same Day Shipping!
Pivot stud: 1979-04 Mustang Clutch Fork Pivot Stud, T5, T45, Tr3650 by Ford at LRS - Same Day Shipping!
I still say it's a good idea to do these. I recently did the clutch in my Cobra at 80,000 miles and found the pivot stud had deep grooves worn on the head. And on the metal fingers that attach the fork to the stud, one of the fingers was actually broken. Why spend $400 to $500 on all the other parts and then skimp on these at only $40? To my mind, any wear item that's accessible during any given project should usually be replaced.
Pivot stud: 1979-04 Mustang Clutch Fork Pivot Stud, T5, T45, Tr3650 by Ford at LRS - Same Day Shipping!
I still say it's a good idea to do these. I recently did the clutch in my Cobra at 80,000 miles and found the pivot stud had deep grooves worn on the head. And on the metal fingers that attach the fork to the stud, one of the fingers was actually broken. Why spend $400 to $500 on all the other parts and then skimp on these at only $40? To my mind, any wear item that's accessible during any given project should usually be replaced.
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5,506 Posts
My post may not have boobs, but I like my new Zoom clutch. It's the same stage as the Spec I had before but the pedal is lighter and it engages gears like a hot knife cuts into butter. Of course, the TOB started squeaking before I even left the mechanic's parking lot...
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1,827 Posts
Do you have a link to your clutch?
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11,127 Posts
Can the pressure plate and flywheel bolts be reused?
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5,506 Posts
10.5 inch:
26 spline:
D&D Performance - C173 10.5 Stage 2.5 Clutch Kit (26T)
10 spline:
D&D Performance - C172 10.5 inch Stage 2.5 Clutch Kit (10T)
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