Hey boys, I'm about to start my 302 rebuild with a nice h/c/i to go on it. I know I had bigger plans, but my budget has unfortunately changed. Here some pics of my car that I had on my phone. I'll put some more up later.
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My 302 h/c/i build
Cloud Nine
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wtf I just got my old MAF and the connector is a 4 pin, while the new PMAS filter had a new connection that we crimped on which was a 6 pin I believe. Cant remember where I put the old MAF connector. **** I hope we didnt trash it by accident
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877 Posts
The PMAS meter came with a wire that had 4 wires to crimp to the old wiring. Then the connection at the end of the new wire is 6 pin like the PMAS MAF connector.
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877 Posts
Well I couldnt find my old MAF wire yet, so I decided to take the car for a quick drive since it has been sitting for 2 days.
While I was driving I missed 3rd and as the revs dropped the car died out and coasted at about 30-35 mph. I coasted off to the side and waited a minute before I started it again and it started. Not too sure what caused that.
Before I rebuilt the engine the car would often stall while cruising once I hit below 1.5k rpms in 2nd. Like if you rev matched a downshift to 2nd and let the car cruise to a stoplight. It would stall once it dropped below 1.5k, maybe 1k rpms. I just learned to throw it in neutral once I got to 2k rpms so I wouldnt risk stalling at the lower rpm range.
What I was thinking was that the problem I had before the rebuild might be more pronounced now. Like if I downshift to second at too low of an rpm (1.5k-2k rpms) the car would stall. Just like before the rebuild, but now it happens more often and at a slightly higher rpm.
Well, im gonna try searching again for the old MAF connector wire and Ill let you guys know if I have any luck.
While I was driving I missed 3rd and as the revs dropped the car died out and coasted at about 30-35 mph. I coasted off to the side and waited a minute before I started it again and it started. Not too sure what caused that.
Before I rebuilt the engine the car would often stall while cruising once I hit below 1.5k rpms in 2nd. Like if you rev matched a downshift to 2nd and let the car cruise to a stoplight. It would stall once it dropped below 1.5k, maybe 1k rpms. I just learned to throw it in neutral once I got to 2k rpms so I wouldnt risk stalling at the lower rpm range.
What I was thinking was that the problem I had before the rebuild might be more pronounced now. Like if I downshift to second at too low of an rpm (1.5k-2k rpms) the car would stall. Just like before the rebuild, but now it happens more often and at a slightly higher rpm.
Well, im gonna try searching again for the old MAF connector wire and Ill let you guys know if I have any luck.
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877 Posts
**** yea found my old maf wiring in a box of old gaskets and empty quarts of oil, dont know how the hell it got there.
So yesterday I finished switching out the old injectors and MAF, gonna drive it later on today and let you guys know if there is any difference in starting it up when I stall or turn it off and on several times.
Reps for the person who guesses how long it took me to swap out injectors and MAF
So yesterday I finished switching out the old injectors and MAF, gonna drive it later on today and let you guys know if there is any difference in starting it up when I stall or turn it off and on several times.
Reps for the person who guesses how long it took me to swap out injectors and MAF
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Can I use throttle body cleaner too? And do I also spray the two holes on the tb as well or just in the two holes on the IAC?
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Your TB is new there's no need to clean that.....Your IAC has carbon build up, spay the cleaner in it let it sit for a min, dump it out and repeat until its clean, then reinstall it.
Your IAC is not a guaranty that its the problem but its a cheap fix if it is
Your IAC is not a guaranty that its the problem but its a cheap fix if it is
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**** your right wasnt thinking about the tb being new lolol
so can I use tb cleaner instead? I dont have carb cleaner with me now
so can I use tb cleaner instead? I dont have carb cleaner with me now
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3,146 Posts
also the stall issue could be the speed sensor. located at the trans on the gear that you insert into the side.
so if it still acts up replace that shizz too.
I use to have stall issues, but come to find out its the pos cam, love vacuum, etc. had to raise the idle a bit. around 800rpm
so if it still acts up replace that shizz too.
I use to have stall issues, but come to find out its the pos cam, love vacuum, etc. had to raise the idle a bit. around 800rpm
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877 Posts
Alright so I drove the car with the old MAF and injectors the other day. It still stalled sometimes, but it seemed like it was less often. It also felt like the drivability was better (not needing to give it so much throttle to get moving or to avoid stalling).
So today I cleaned the IAC and drove the car again. This time the car did stall on me and I couldnt start it right away. I tried a minute later cranking it while pressing the throttle and it started.
Also i noticed when Im coasting in second and coming to a stop. I threw the car from 2nd to neutral when the rpms hit 1.5k when I was coming to a stop. When I did that (on two occasions) the rpms just drop completely and the car stalls.
So basically my main problems are;
1. more throttle when going from a stop either forward or reversing to avoid stalling
2. when coasting in 2nd and then shifting into neutral at 1.5k and below (like when approaching to a stop sign) the rpms drop and the car dies
3. if I stall the car more than 3-4 times, i need to wait a minute and then try cranking it to make it start (or sometimes pressing on the throttle while I crank it)
So today I cleaned the IAC and drove the car again. This time the car did stall on me and I couldnt start it right away. I tried a minute later cranking it while pressing the throttle and it started.
Also i noticed when Im coasting in second and coming to a stop. I threw the car from 2nd to neutral when the rpms hit 1.5k when I was coming to a stop. When I did that (on two occasions) the rpms just drop completely and the car stalls.
So basically my main problems are;
1. more throttle when going from a stop either forward or reversing to avoid stalling
2. when coasting in 2nd and then shifting into neutral at 1.5k and below (like when approaching to a stop sign) the rpms drop and the car dies
3. if I stall the car more than 3-4 times, i need to wait a minute and then try cranking it to make it start (or sometimes pressing on the throttle while I crank it)
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877 Posts
army, im gonna try and take a look at the speed sensor too like you mentioned.
and btw guys my idle is at around 900-1000 right now
and btw guys my idle is at around 900-1000 right now
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Was this car ALWAYS a manual car? If not, is the clutch switch plugged in? If so, maybe that clutch switch is shittin' out. I think it's goal is to prevent stalling when pressing the clutch in. Maybe someone else could enlighten us/me more on this.
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877 Posts
That is a good question. I am not too sure, I am pretty sure this was a 4 cylinder car before because the 4 cylinder belt sticker is in the front of the engine bay. Maybe it was also an auto?
And what do you mean by clutch switch?
I know the switch that requires you to press in the clutch when you start the car is either gone or not working, because I dont need to press the clutch in to start the car.
And idk if this has anything to do with it, but this car was taken to a mechanic and one of the codes he found was that the switch I mentioned above ^, was deleted or not working.
He also mentioned that he had to trick the car into thinking it was a 302 because he said when he kept entering the serial number or VIN number (what is it called that they put into the code scanner?) the scanner would show it as a 4 cylinder. He said he had to try 2-3 different scanners to pull codes I believe.
Not sure if they were having trouble using their machines or the car's computer has a problem? Or is it the 4 cylinder OBD1? It couldnt have some 4 cylinder electrical stuff still in there right? idk
And what do you mean by clutch switch?
I know the switch that requires you to press in the clutch when you start the car is either gone or not working, because I dont need to press the clutch in to start the car.
And idk if this has anything to do with it, but this car was taken to a mechanic and one of the codes he found was that the switch I mentioned above ^, was deleted or not working.
He also mentioned that he had to trick the car into thinking it was a 302 because he said when he kept entering the serial number or VIN number (what is it called that they put into the code scanner?) the scanner would show it as a 4 cylinder. He said he had to try 2-3 different scanners to pull codes I believe.
Not sure if they were having trouble using their machines or the car's computer has a problem? Or is it the 4 cylinder OBD1? It couldnt have some 4 cylinder electrical stuff still in there right? idk
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Most likely all the electrical pertaining to the motor is 5.0 stuff. You should/need to replace that switch on the clutch pedal. It may, but not necessarily, be your issue. My car would stall periodically when pushing in the clutch to turn a corner, and I just noticed mine still had the jumper from when it was an auto and I forgot to plug it in. Not sure if that was the issue or not, because the car's interior is apart at the moment and it's not drivable. I'll start a thread about that prolly tomorrow night or so since I'm going to bed soon, cuz I've made some permanant decisions about my car's purpose while I'm working on it, lol. Strangely enough though, I still had to press in the clutch to start it. May have to look to see if there's two switches on it or something.
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877 Posts
Didnt work on the car for 2 days cause I was too busy getting barreled and was about to do the base idle reset when I realized I don't have a multimeter. So today Im gonna go head out and grab a multimeter and get the speed sensor from NAPAs. Im also gonna take a look at the clutch switch.
Anybody know any good multimeter brands? Would a $20-$30 cheapo one from home depot be as good as a craftsmen?
Anybody know any good multimeter brands? Would a $20-$30 cheapo one from home depot be as good as a craftsmen?
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