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rear suspension talk again.....

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#21 ·
Jazzer The Cat said:
Then run a PHB with a set of spherical UCA's and should have no issues whatever
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I would NOT do that. The arcs of axle motion prescribed by the panhard bar are not the same as the arcs prescribed by the UCAs, and with no give in either, it's gonna bind. You'll need give either in the UCAs or the panhard bar, which defeats the point of having both.

You might get away doing spherical uppers with a watt's link, but I'd strongly recommend against it with a PhB.

I can pre-emptively feel the flames, hahaha, but Sweet, have you considered an IRS swap? Do one with proper mount bushings and diff bracing and get some adjustable shocks and coil-overs, and you might be able to get away with just swapping springs for going to the track. It'll certainly be the best street/corner setup for anything outside of a racetrack. Only real penalty is the weight, but at least it's low and out back, so it's gonna help balance the car out.

If I ever get back to where I can get another SN95 Cobra, it's what I'm gonna try and do.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
this is the sacrifice part of what i have to deal with. i dont want to do the irs because of all the weight. the car is no doubt going to be be best at going strait, but i want it to hold its own in the corners. if i get do do any comp stuff, i dont plan on winning against better cars but want to be competitive.
 
#23 ·
I see no reason you can't run a PHB with the double-adjustable uppers. You certainly can, if they are not re-located. I don't know anything about any of the 1/4 mile relocation stuff up there.

Jazzer :)
 
#24 ·
ReverendDexter said:
I would NOT do that. The arcs of axle motion prescribed by the panhard bar are not the same as the arcs prescribed by the UCAs, and with no give in either, it's gonna bind. You'll need give either in the UCAs or the panhard bar, which defeats the point of having both.

You might get away doing spherical uppers with a watt's link, but I'd strongly recommend against it with a PhB.

I can pre-emptively feel the flames, hahaha, but Sweet, have you considered an IRS swap? Do one with proper mount bushings and diff bracing and get some adjustable shocks and coil-overs, and you might be able to get away with just swapping springs for going to the track. It'll certainly be the best street/corner setup for anything outside of a racetrack. Only real penalty is the weight, but at least it's low and out back, so it's gonna help balance the car out.

If I ever get back to where I can get another SN95 Cobra, it's what I'm gonna try and do.
Click to expand...
The arc of a PHB is not very much. I don't see binding issues with spherical ones if they are commonly used with OEM ones. Besides, the spherical WILL allow some lateral movement, as the "eyeball" sockets will move in any direction.
 
#25 ·
Eric, that's not the issue - think back to geometry, and how you can define a triangle. If you know the length of the three sides, you have a defined triangle. With solid UCAs, the length of the UCA cannot change like it can with a rubber-bushed UCA, ergo you have a defined triangle.

I stand by it not being a good idea. I can't say for certain that it won't work within the tolerances of real world parts, but I still wouldn't do it.
 
#26 ·
But in this case, I don't see the LCA's and UCA's being so ridged as to not allow the small amount of lateral momement dictated by the PHB and especially if they have spherical ends on each arm in the equasion.

I am with you on whether or not it is a good idea, as I think that in combo with a TA is a proven solution for the issues presented by the UCA's. Doesn't appear that it is superior to them from a geometry point of view for 1/4 mile use, but will work fine.

Jazzer :)
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
damn, this can of worms got a little more attention than i thought it would. maybe i should break down what i have at the current moment and see where it goes from there.

front:
GMS k
GMS coil overs in front 1 set 300lb on illumina's and a set of 200lbs on strange
MM plates (still fightning spacers)
steeda x2's
urethane offset rack bushings (will go to solids eventually)
termi sway bar (remove for the 1320)

rear:
GMS lower arms (these are getting changed)
GMS double adjustable uppers
wild rides s-box
lower battle boxes
strange/eibach drags
illumina's/frpp c-springs
stock houshing bushings

i dont mind to spend several hours changing set ups, thats fine and i plan this from begining, but would like to keep realistic (3-6hrs is fine). what i am looking to get is security in the ass to quit wobbling under hard trail braking, but still be able to be a happy medium in a sense for strait line. of course if i can stabilize the corners, i will ultimately stabilize strait line (for the most part). the goal is dual purpose, and its not easy by any means. the car will shine going strait, this is obvious, but i want it steady in the twisties.

i still have to make mind up on rear sway bar, front drag springs, griggs or MM, and whatever else may come along on this.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
DickH said:
id just throw in the extra money now and get a tq arm along with the phb, skip fussing over the uppers if you arent going to keep them in the end anyway.
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i would really like to, but thats for later date if possible. if i keep the car, then that is what will eventually end up in the car.
 
#30 · (Edited)
If you DON'T want a happy tail... forgo the little benefit of the Wild S box and go TA :yes

Swapping out the uppers for a TA is just not realistic and cannot be done, with everything else, in only a few hours. If you go that route, I can just about guarantee, you will swap it out one time and never want to do it again :(

Jazzer says... go TA and remove HUGE hassel from your day :)
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
if i keep the car it will eventually get a TA, just not right now. when/if it does, it will stay in. where i am stuck at right now is how getting the axle set. this is why i thought of PHB, but maybe a WL instead?
 
#32 ·
watts link shines over the phb when you have a lot of axle movement. You have a mustang you want to handle well not an SUV, so you are probably going to have stiffer rear springs. If you get the phb and set everything up right, you probably wont notice a huge difference going to the watts link and you might want to kick yourself for spending that money twice.
 
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