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what did u do to ur 8er today

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#42 ·
FastStang91Lx said:
Still finishing up rewiring my car... That's why I've been so absent lately. Way to time consuming.
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I bet it is, hurry up and finish, we need you on here more.....lol
 
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#43 ·
I'll have some good pics soon. I had my buddy move a different project at his shop in front of my cage and tubbing project, so I'm hoping that still takes him a bit since I still have to swap rear ends with the project vert that I have here.
 
#44 ·
FastStang91Lx said:
I'll have some good pics soon. I had my buddy move a different project at his shop in front of my cage and tubbing project, so I'm hoping that still takes him a bit since I still have to swap rear ends with the project vert that I have here.
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Your swaping your 91 rear end for the vert rear end in your back yard , why are you doing that ?
 
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#45 ·
Well, I installed a pressure gauge, and fine tuned my fuel pressure! Couldn't get the gauge onto the regulator itself, so I had to fashion an extension.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
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#48 ·
I got the caliper brackets today, also got the ranger axles and drums.

I talked to the company i got the rotors from. Its going to cost me another 15 dollars to get the correct rotors, basically the $15 pays the shipping to send the rotors back to them. That seems fair to me since it was my mistake
 
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#49 ·
ryanw said:
I got the caliper brackets today, also got the ranger axles and drums.

I talked to the company i got the rotors from. Its going to cost me another 15 dollars to get the correct rotors, basically the $15 pays the shipping to send the rotors back to them. That seems fair to me since it was my mistake
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Sounds like a deal to me dude, congrats. When you gonna tackle the swap?
 
#50 ·
Well im trying to clean up the spindles so i can paint them, but ****, its a lot of work, im trying not to give up. I also removed the dust shields cuz they were crap. Im not really sure when im going to start it. I need to do some research to figure out how the axles come out. While im in there i should replace the wheel bearings, races, and seals. Im not really sure how to remove the races on the rear end since i cant get infront of them to pound them out. Maybe some one can give me some insight on the matter.

I still need to order the wheels and brake lines. And have the rear drums turned, and get new pads all the way around

After i inspect my ball joint and if there still good ill get some spacers, if there no good then ill need to buy some 1995 ball joints. ( not sure how to tell if there good or not.)

So im going to guess that ill start taking thing apart in a month
 
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#51 ·
Ball joints. That one I can answer. If the rubber seal is good (just take a look at it to see if it's ripped or not) then jack up the car and grab the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. Rock back and forth and feel for movement. Having a buddy look at the joints and maybe putting a finger on the joint to feel for anything couldn't hurt either.

No rattles, wiggles or noises means you are good to go!

As for the rest I wish I had more info. On the upside you will know all the tricks for when I do mine! lol Wait, that is only good for me, sorry!
 
#52 ·
To get the axles out take the center diff cover off, turn the carrier untill you see the small bolt that goes through the pin for the side gears, it is 8 mm socket (make sure your socket is 6 pt and is not to worn, if it is 12 pt or worn it will strip these little guys are tight.) pull the center pin out, take your wheels off, knock the drums off and you should be able at this point to push the axles in and remove the c-clips, after the c clips are out then the axles should just pull out.

as for the seals and bearings, the seals come out just as any other seal, the bearings take a special tool that goes on the end of a slide hammer Axle Bearing Puller - Harbor Freight Tools and auto zone has slide hammers on there rent-a-tool list get the old bearings out and use a seal & race installer to go back in with a little grease around the out side of the bearing.
 
#53 ·
Do i need the slide hammer to remove the races or do i need it to pull the bearing to. Do i need to remove the S clip first before i remove that pin ?

Also do the new bearing need to be packed with greese or dose it get lubed by the rear end diff fluid ?
 
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#54 ·
the pin should slide out through the s clip, and then the s clip comes out before the c clips, (sorry missed that step)

i just put a little grease around the outside of the race to lubercate while putting it back into the axle housing, (do not pack the new bearing with grease)

i believe the bearing and the race are together on the axles not a cone and race style bearing so the race and bearing should come out together.
 
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#55 ·
Aw good to know..... i was thinking they were the cone style with there seperate races. Okay will do.

Now the bolts your talking about, that i need to remove, in order to remove the pin, how many are there one or two, and im guessing it will be obvious which ones i need to remove ?

Thanks for your help
 
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Discussion starter · #58 ·
only replace the seals if their leaking then hit them with a screw driver like you would a freeze plug
 
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#59 ·
Drivability went to straight **** a while back and CEL came on but just now had the time to pull it in the shop and look at it. Plugs were fouled pretty damn bad. Cleaned those up and it drives tons better but CEL is still on. Gonna pull codes tomorrow and set the TPS to see if that helps with the loading up at all. I do a lot of banging around town in it but I didn't think it'd foul the plugs that quick. I drive it hard enough to keep it cleaned out but there's a lot of idle time at stop lights too. Guess we'll see.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
lsx freak hows the drivability with the stage 2 cam i have one i just bought but not sure how it is? how does it pull
 
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