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several questions please

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#21 ·
07 Boss said:
That's because those cams designed for sound/idle are not the best for forced induction. Basically those cams are going to have a tighter lsa which is going to allow too much of you air fuel mix to escape out of the exhaust before it has a chance to be burned and make power. Now if you have a cam with serious duration it's going to naturally have a smaller lsa because there are only 360* to play with. That is why cams with a really aggressive profile are going to have more valve overlap and a lopey idle. If you build in that overlap when it isn't necessary for the length of the duration you are going to be bleeding power compared to a cam with the same duration and a greater lsa.

Now as far as the difference between an N/A cam and a blower cam is going to be the exhaust duration in relationship to the intake duration. Plus it's usually going to have that larger lsa. If you compare the difference in cam specs you will see that blower cams will have anywhere from 8-15 degrees more exhaust duration when compared to N/A cams with similar intake duration. That is because the same volume of compressed air is going to produce more exhaust than the same volume of uncompressed air.

With that said, ideally you should run a blower cam with a blower. Now you can run an N/A cam with a blower without too many issues. I do. But it is not very good to run a blower cam while you are normally aspirated. That is why you see so many guys running regular cam grinds with their blowers and nobody running blower cams on their N/A set ups. That's because most guys are doing cams before they install blowers. So waiting to do cams so you can do both at the same time is the best way to go. But if you are doing cams first, going with a good N/A grind is going to be a good compromise. Now their are folks running cams designed for sound with their blowers but they could get more power if the had the same duration specs and a larger lsa.

Hope that helps clear that up for you.
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thanks!!! that clears up a LOT!!
now that being said...i see that the detroit rockers come in either NA or blown. any idea if i would be safe doing the NA detroit rockers if i plan to slap a Kenne Bell on this car later on? I know i would be better off to do them together, but im willing to waste a few HP to go ahead and get that sound now...
 
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#22 ·
I'm not familiar with the specs on the DR cams but I would look at the lsa. I believe those are one of those designed for the lopey idle and would not recommend those if you plan on installing a KB down the road. Are those an NSR cam?
 
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
hey boss,i posted a video of that clunking noise in my other thread called "please help" its very faint but if you can check it out and see if you can explain what it is id be grateful.its weird cause if i really drive slow it doesnt do it,if i hammer it,it doesnt do it either,its only when im driving normally to a bit aggressive i hear it.

also what is a good tourque converter? buddy of mine said tci isnt a very good choice and i havnt really seen any others
 
#24 ·
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#26 ·
butters said:
hey boss,i posted a video of that clunking noise in my other thread called "please help" its very faint but if you can check it out and see if you can explain what it is id be grateful.its weird cause if i really drive slow it doesnt do it,if i hammer it,it doesnt do it either,its only when im driving normally to a bit aggressive i hear it.

also what is a good tourque converter? buddy of mine said tci isnt a very good choice and i havnt really seen any others
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Didn't see a video.

I like Precision Industries myself. I've had success with Yank also. Just be sure and listen to your friend and stay away from TCI.
 
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