Help, T-45 Transmission

Eagle2000GT · Nov 7, 2012

I have a recent problem that I do not understand. I origninally thought it was the clutch or pressure plate giving out. But it was replaced only 15,000 miles ago with a performance clutch and pressure plate. Now I have an unusual problem. I've been driving it and I've been experimenting with it. It damn near stranded me 100 miles from home until I figured it out.

I'd like a few suggestions.

This is brand new problem. It arised only about a month ago. Sometimes my manual transmission is impossible to shift. It does not grind. It is not sychronizers. When it shifts it works perfectly. But I sometimes have to shut off the motor to get it into gear. It sometimes feels tike the torque is still being applied but now I'm not so sure. I once saw the shifter move, as if relieving pressue, when I shut off the motor. But, later I've release the brake on flat ground and the car with the clutch in and it didn't move. Nothing. Not like the clutch was still engaged. I've read a lot of threads. The first thing is to replace transmission fluid. Makes sense. I did that. Didn't fix anything. Then, according to the threads, it might be the clutch cable. They stretch. I replaced it. That didn't work. Actually, it got better but didn't fix it.

Here is what it is currently doing. If I cold start the car, the transmission works smoothly. It gets harder to shift (but not impossible) when it gets hot. I originally thought that it was the clutch pressure plate but I have pressed the brake and released the clutch and it does not lower rpm until the clutch pedal is half way up. Doesn't sound like a clutch. And if I come to a stop and push the clutch pedal to the floor then the shifter works normally. I can put it into neutral , pause, and it goes into other gears perfectly. But, if I put it into neutral and release the clutch and push it back in, it is impossible to get it into gear without shutting off the motor.

Any suggestion?

I have replaced the clutch cable with an OEM part. Do you think I might need to replace the clutch? Some say is is bad but it doesn't engage untile the clutch pedal is half way up. Or is it my T-45 that has never grinded a single gear?

I am actually lost for an explanation.

Shaun13GT/CS · Nov 7, 2012

Does the clutch pedal get stiffer at all? When you cant get it into gear? I was thinking maybe worn pivot ball stud.

Other things I can think of off hand, bent clutch fork. Or bent input shaft.

bigjohnstud4200 · Nov 7, 2012

Shaun03GT said:
Does the clutch pedal get stiffer at all? When you cant get it into gear? I was thinking maybe worn pivot ball stud.

Other things I can think of off hand, bent clutch fork. Or bent input shaft.

I'm thinking pivot stud or fork also, i advise anyone doing a clutch to replace those to, they are only $50 extra and will save you a BIG headache. Also, are you running OEM cable or aftermarket?

Eagle2000GT · Nov 7, 2012

Shaun03GT said:
Does the clutch pedal get stiffer at all? When you cant get it into gear? I was thinking maybe worn pivot ball stud.

Other things I can think of off hand, bent clutch fork. Or bent input shaft.

No. It doesn't get any stiffer. The damn transmission just locks up.

I have learned to drive it this way. I have to make sure that the tires are moving when I downshift. I make sure I down shift to first befoe the car comes to a stop. When I do that then it seems to work fine. If I get too slow before I down shift to first then I can feel teeth bump against each other. Not exaxtly a grind, maybe a slow motion grind.

My mechanic wants to tear the transmission out and replace the clutch. I'm not sure its the clutch. I don't know what it is. I'm thinking its the clutch fork but they are doubtful.

Edit: By the way, I was told to change the clutch fork you have to remove the transmission. I really wish I was wiser then.

bulloch27 · Nov 7, 2012

What you are describing is the clutch not completely disengaging in my opinion. Do you still have the stock two piece plastic quadrant? It's a sefl-adjusting ratcheting type adjustment and they DO GO BAD. The teeth wear and the self-adjusting feature will fail with prolonged use. Typically an aluminum non-adjustable quadrant and firewall adjuster will fix the issue. If your cable isn't properly routed, heat will affect performance of the cable by allowing the sheath to stretch/collapse while you are putting tension on the cable. For around $100 you can buy a new cable, quadrant and firewall adjuster that will almost certainly resolve your problem.

You will have to remove the trans to do a clutch fork as it slides over the input shaft.

brharris777 · Nov 7, 2012

i would do an aftermarket cable, quadrant, and firewall adjuster, if that doesnt take care of it i would look at replacing the fork and ball stud. Then while the trans is out to replace those items, you can check out that clutch too

Serlin · Nov 7, 2012

The obvious,
have you checked the oil?
Have you changed it?

I would change the fluid and take a good look at it. see if there are any metal shavings in it.

To bad we're not closer. My T-45 is coming out soon, works 100% perfect, swaping for a tko. You could have it for less than the cost of a clutch.

bigjohnstud4200 · Nov 7, 2012

brharris777 said:
i would do an aftermarket cable, quadrant, and firewall adjuster, if that doesnt take care of it i would look at replacing the fork and ball stud. Then while the trans is out to replace those items, you can check out that clutch too

I would do this, but not with an aftermarket cable. They stretch a lot more than OEM. Plus, if you don't install it correctly, like many horror stories, they snap at the self adjusting point. You don't need a self adjusting cable if you have a firewall adjuster.

Silver35th · Nov 7, 2012

I agree with the others about getting an aluminum quadrant and firewall adjuster. I had a similar issue a while back and it ended up being that the OE quadrant wouldn't hold it's adjustment.

hooliganryder · Nov 7, 2012

Get In the car and pull if clutch pedal up towards you and see if that helps.
It adjust the clutch..also I would pull the shifter out and see of that little plastic bushing is binding up

brharris777 · Nov 7, 2012

bigjohnstud4200 said:
I would do this, but not with an aftermarket cable. They stretch a lot more than OEM. Plus, if you don't install it correctly, like many horror stories, they snap at the self adjusting point. You don't need a self adjusting cable if you have a firewall adjuster.

I honestly have never heard of any problems with aftermarket cables, guess ill have to keep an eye on mine and see if it does.

Shredding Rubber · Nov 7, 2012

My centerforce df doesn't engage until the top 1/2-1/3 of the pedal since new,so I don't think that's your problem.
Bent shift fork is possible but it would do it all the time,not just when hot. Pivot ball is also possible but again it wouldn't be fine when cold,unless something is expanding as it heats up causing the bind.
Your gonna have to drop the tranny I think. Not what you want to hear I'm sure.
If it's a new clutch,and wasn't happening before then I will assume its an install issue,which would be the installers responsibility

Eagle2000GT · Nov 7, 2012

I had the transmission fluid changed. Then I had the clutch cable replaced with an OEM cable. I didn't do it myselft but my mechanic said the quadrant was loose and that he tightened it. I have pulled the pedal up several times to get the self adjuster to work. The clutch does not seem to be engaged. I though it was the pressure plate before I had the cable changed. Sitting on flat ground the car will not move with the brake released and the clutch in. Holding the brake I feel it engage and can see the rpms drop off with the clutch pedal half way up, not before.

Here is the odd thing: It sometimes works perfectly and sometimes locks up. I suppose it could be the pressure plate sometimes releasing and sometimes not. If I pull the transmission to change the pressure plate I'm definitely going to change the clutch fork.

Eagle2000GT · Nov 8, 2012

I tested it again today.

This afternoon I drove it to town. Cold start: everything worked perfectly. Stopped to throw some stuff into the trunk. Left the car running and the transmission in neutral. Got back into the car and everything worked perfectly. Getting into gear was smooth as silk.

Got to town and stopped at the first light (about 7 miles). To test it I put the transmission in neutral and released the clutch. Then pushed the clutch back in and tried to get it into gear. It was very hard to get into gear. Smooth as silk when cold and hard to get into gear 7 miles later.

I don't really think its the transmission. If I shut off the motor then it becomes smooth as silk again even hot. It's got to be the clutch but in 62 years I've never seen this before.

SSG Pate · Nov 8, 2012

Eagle for some reason your clutch is not disengaging , I do think you need to replace the factory cable with an adjustable cable and try that before removing the transmission. I had a similar problem a few months ago on my 5.0 the stock cable would no longer compensate enough to fully disengage the clutch why I dont know. After changing the cable and playing with the adjustment the problem was solved. I couldnt force my car into gear unless I cut it competely off an put it into gear.

bulloch27 · Nov 8, 2012

Again, I'll say this sounds as if the stock two piece self-adjusting quadrant is failing. Spend the $25 and replace it with an aluminum piece before you take the trans out.

Shaun13GT/CS · Nov 8, 2012

Yeah Im thinking something is binding. Definitely the stock plastic quadrant can just be worn.

Eagle2000GT · Nov 8, 2012

OK. I'll try that first. They are good mods to have anyway.

bulloch27 · Nov 8, 2012

Exactly. Don't forget to tack on a firewall adjuster as well or you'll never get it to work with a stock style cable.

Eagle2000GT · Nov 8, 2012

I have a new OEM cable. It helped but didn't eliminate the problem. I'm assuming you are talking about these two parts to work with the OEM cable.
Steeda Quick Release Clutch Quadrant (82-04 Mustang) 555-7006 - Free Shipping!
SR Performance Firewall Cable Adjuster (79-04) at AmericanMuscle.com 16019 - Free Shipping!
Anything else?

Help, T-45 Transmission

Eagle2000GT

Shaun13GT/CS

bigjohnstud4200

Eagle2000GT

bulloch27

brharris777

Serlin

bigjohnstud4200

Silver35th

hooliganryder

brharris777

Shredding Rubber

Eagle2000GT

Eagle2000GT

SSG Pate

bulloch27

Shaun13GT/CS

Eagle2000GT

bulloch27

Eagle2000GT

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