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stangpride04

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Well it's been a fun two weeks. Got a new heater put in the barn, tarped off the work area, got the old turtle wax junk stripped off. Man all the hard work down the drain. Starting the clay and correction in a few hours.

This will be a correction thread using strictly chemical guys 36 and 38 followed by some sort of fine polish. Car isn't in bad enough shape for 34. Haven't decided if I will use blacklight, wet mirror finish, or their fine polish. Maybe a combo? However once I have 105, 205, and menz 4500 I will do a side by side to show some comparison.

Don't know whether to be :woot or :banghead after this order.....

Either way:
New microfibers and foam applicator pads.
LC hyrdo pads. I'm fond of them despite how easily the cyans get used up. Spent $50 and got 6 pads, 2 of each (cyan tang and crim) That's a normal$12 a pad
Picked up 1 pinnacle wheel cleaner, got one free.. just can't get enough of it. I highly recommend it.
UWW+ (concentrated)
XXX.
CG carnuba QD, WET MIRROR FINISH, the V.R.P dressing, landed a free sample of deep gloss sealant, and lastly...
I'll be giving Dodo juice IRON GLOSS a run. Thanks to modded and his seductive detailing-obsessed ways there will be a nice little review of that compared to deep gloss sealant in the near future.

Side note my investment to date is a tad over $600. *Should have bought long tubes and an o/r x pipe :lol Now I have a nice assortment of products across the board. As well as a nice range of nuba's. Will def help selling with different clients' needs. Now the focus will be maintaining a supply of the products that yield the best results as well as keeping up with the necessary tools. Thanks to the ACC and the experienced for all their help in this obsession
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
Car is clayed, grabbing lunch and taking a break to stop at the gym. Then I will be taping it up for fun stuff

Glasur showed up today. +1 to AA for shipping quick and free!

Pics to follow!
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Well guys finished up on the hood a few hours ago. Had a few things come up so didn't get the whole hood done. So instead I focused on doing reviews, combos, and break downs. Few deep scratches didn't come out but for a first time correction I am very pleased and happy with how well the v cuts, polishes, and finishes. SON1C I have a nice 36/BL combo for you and Modded there's a glasur application in here as well. All I can say is I'm thrilled. Pics might be up late late tonight, if not tomorrow morning.
 
Discussion starter · #9 · (Edited)
Again ran outta time to finish the hood tonight because the jeep wouldn't start. Crank position sensor is whacked. :facepalm:

Here are the pics.
Products used:
Mother's clay bar. (Clayed and dried twice). Could have went 3 and most likely will on the rest of the car. Used the plastic bag test to check for contaminants.
Griot's DA 6''
Hydro foam pads
-Cyan (cuting) v36. speed 6. (6 passes)
-Tangerine (polishing) v38. speed 6 ( 6 passes)
-Crimson (finishing) Black light speed 3. (3 passes) 1 coat. 3 pea sized drops did the whole driver's half of the hood. Waited 15 mins before buffing out.
Pete's 53 applied with foam applicator (2 layers) buffed out with MF by hand
Zymol Glasur applied by bare hand. Amazing technique by the way. Like having sex for the first time again lol (2 layers) buffed out with an MF.

Beginning pic, just taped up and clayed.
Left to right. (36, 38, BL glasur). (36, 38, BL Pete's). (36, BL, Pete's).
Image


Close up
Image


Image


Image


Sooooo many swirls
Image


The large scratch here sort of came out by the end of correction. Seems to be quite deep? any thoughts?
Image


After with 36
Image

Image

Image



After 38
Image


Image


Image


Here's an after 36 and BL for sonic's viewing pleasure. If I spent more time on it I think it would have taken these scratches out but again I'm still learning. I thought I had a pic of a second pass, guess not.
Image


Close up after 38 (Black light does clean these panels up some)
Image

Image


Admiring the job so far
Image


After BL
Image


Image


Image


Image


Pic here shows a good 50/50 of a corrected vs uncorrected panel. HUGE difference and pleased with the products so far.
(Close up)
Image


Same pic from a tad farther

Image


And a few more steps back

Image


All waxed up
Image


Close up of halogen
Image


Image


Like glass :)

Image


Top shot. All are pretty close
I feel like with a finer polish and a sealer or better glaze might help separate the pete's from glasur. I like how clear the reflection of the tarp is on the glasur panel.

Image



Kind of blurry but you get the point
So long Turtle wax! And auto zone... :wave

Image


Corrected

Image


Not corrected

Image



In closing, I really enjoyed how tough 36 was and how it worked with the hydro pads. Not terrible on dust either. Is this good or bad? Also product came off with little to no elbow grease. Leads me to believe I used the correct amount and effectively worked the surface with each. Couldn't be happier with the results for a first timer.

Advice and constructive criticism encouraged.
 
#10 ·
SON1C said:
you should v36 followed by machine applied blacklight, I'd like to see more of blacklights capabilities personally
Click to expand...
Blacklight only has microabrasives in it mostly for cleaning and help reduces light marring marks but i dont think it really has the ability to refine buffing marks from a medium polish. If anything BL will just fill in the marks that will come back after the first few washes. A final polish is a MUST on black.

Stevey92 said:
When can we expect pics? Excited to see the v series polishes at work!
Click to expand...
If you get super anxious i did a review a couple weeks ago, its on here, youtube and the CG channel.

stangpride04 said:
Again ran outta time to finish the hood tonight because the jeep wouldn't start. Crank position sensor is whacked. :facepalm:

Here are the pics.
Products used:
Mother's clay bar. (Clayed and dried twice). Could have went 3 and most likely will on the rest of the car. Used the plastic bag test to check for contaminants.
Griot's DA 6''
Hydro foam pads
-Cyan (cuting) v36. speed 6. (6 passes)
-Tangerine (polishing) v38. speed 6 ( 6 passes)
-Crimson (finishing) Black light speed 3. (3 passes) 1 coat. 3 pea sized drops did the whole driver's half of the hood. Waited 15 mins before buffing out.
Pete's 53 applied with foam applicator (2 layers) buffed out with MF by hand
Zymol Glasur applied by bare hand. Amazing technique by the way. Like having sex for the first time again lol (2 layers) buffed out with an MF.

Beginning pic, just taped up and clayed.
Left to right. (36, 38, BL glasur). (36, 38, BL Pete's). (36, BL, Pete's).
Image


Close up
Image


Image


Image


Sooooo many swirls
Image


The large scratch here sort of came out by the end of correction. Seems to be quite deep? any thoughts?
Image


After with 36
Image

Image

Image



After 38
Image


Image


Image


Here's an after 36 and BL for sonic's viewing pleasure. If I spent more time on it I think it would have taken these scratches out but again I'm still learning. I thought I had a pic of a second pass, guess not.
Image


Close up after 38 (Black light does clean these panels up some)
Image

Image


Admiring the job so far
Image


After BL
Image


Image


Image


Image


Pic here shows a good 50/50 of a corrected vs uncorrected panel. HUGE difference and pleased with the products so far.
(Close up)
Image


Same pic from a tad farther

Image


And a few more steps back

Image


All waxed up
Image


Close up of halogen
Image


Image


Like glass :)

Image


Top shot. All are pretty close
I feel like with a finer polish and a sealer or better glaze might help separate the pete's from glasur. I like how clear the reflection of the tarp is on the glasur panel.

Image



Kind of blurry but you get the point
So long Turtle wax! And auto zone... :wave

Image


Corrected

Image


Not corrected

Image



In closing, I really enjoyed how tough 36 was and how it worked with the hydro pads. Not terrible on dust either. Is this good or bad? Also product came off with little to no elbow grease. Leads me to believe I used the correct amount and effectively worked the surface with each. Couldn't be happier with the results for a first timer.

Advice and constructive criticism encouraged.
Click to expand...
V36 is a great polish, low dust is good.

I do want to throw out a couple notes for ya as a fellow black mustang owner.

-Since this is your first correction and judging from your pics you WILL need a compound like 105 or v34 to get full correction and get those deeper scratches. Once you initially correct your car, followup polishing sessions will most likely only require a medium and fine polish as long as you maintain your paint.

-Follow v36 with v38 and THEN if you want, Blacklight. BL isnt made for fixing paint, its made to boost color/gloss/reflection. Its like a superglaze, if blacklight appears to improve the buffing marks left from v36, its most likely just covering them up. Blacklight with the proper pad can help with clay induced marring but its really not gonna have enough cut to refine medium polish buffing marks.

-I suggest getting v34 or m105, use that on a cyan pad. Follow that with v36 on a tangerine pad, then v38/sf4500 on a crimson pad.

- Also after your Hydrotech pads wear out, i suggest looking into buffnShine pads, Hydrotechs are great, thats agreed upon. But BnS are JUST as good and for 50 bucks you can get 10 and they last longer, they are also open cell foam which most polishes are designed for. Im making this suggestion, not because i like BnS pads, but because i feel like they are a better value, which i know you will appreciate. If they work just a well and are cheaper...then why not? I know you will heed this advice because i know you like getting value for your money.

Last thing. Black is the hardest color to get right because it shows every little buffing mark. So make sure you take as much time as you need and try not to get frustrated, it will take a freakin long time and if you do it right youre body will probably hurt lol. But the first time you see your black hood on a partly cloudy day and you see those clouds poppin off the mirror finish that black can have...youll be addicted to it. Nice GT man, hard to beat a black mustang. Merica!

PS. Waxing by hand is a totally zen experience isnt it? Ive found just using your fingertips helps use the product more efficiently and lays down a thinner coat. Im gonna mess with Celeste by hand.
 
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Discussion starter · #11 ·
Man I really appreciate the info! I have 34 but was afraid of using it I didn't want to do too much damage being my learning curve.. It is my understanding that the newer clears are some what harder than the new edge paints? I will def look into BNS pads. Detailers club have them? I will use 34, 36, 38 steps on the other half of the hood and compare. Would like to see 4500 in action in person but I think I will learn to love 34, 36, 38 just as much as the 105,205,4500 combo. Those products are on the list. I can always experiment with them on a spot like the spoiler or decklid. And thanks man. HAve a TON of work to do. 30 outside and 60 in the shop today. So I was a happy camper. Yes hand waxing is very zen like.... just glad no one else was in there with me :shiftyeyes lol.. Sunday after church will be the next full day of correction on the other half of the hood. Excited to see what the 34 can do. Going to try turning off the over head lights and just use the halogen lamps. Try to practice getting the eye for removing these bastard marks all over my car. I could slap the guy I bought it from. but yes... 'merica :usa
 
#12 ·
stangpride04 said:
Man I really appreciate the info! I have 34 but was afraid of using it I didn't want to do too much damage being my learning curve.. It is my understanding that the newer clears are some what harder than the new edge paints? I will def look into BNS pads. Detailers club have them? I will use 34, 36, 38 steps on the other half of the hood and compare. Would like to see 4500 in action in person but I think I will learn to love 34, 36, 38 just as much as the 105,205,4500 combo. Those products are on the list. I can always experiment with them on a spot like the spoiler or decklid. And thanks man. HAve a TON of work to do. 30 outside and 60 in the shop today. So I was a happy camper. Yes hand waxing is very zen like.... just glad no one else was in there with me :shiftyeyes lol.. Sunday after church will be the next full day of correction on the other half of the hood. Excited to see what the 34 can do. Going to try turning off the over head lights and just use the halogen lamps. Try to practice getting the eye for removing these bastard marks all over my car. I could slap the guy I bought it from. but yes... 'merica :usa
Click to expand...
Yes the newer cars clears are a little harder. But v36 isnt fully correcting so you need to step up your polish or pad. My personal recommendation is v34/m105 on an Orang BnS pad. You wont "damage" your paint. When you use v34 w/your cyan pad, use moderately firm pressure on high speed for the first 2-4 passes, then back the speed off a couple notches and easy up on the presure for the remaining working time. Then follow with 36 and 38. I like to always start on high speed (5-6) even with my medium and final polishes because it helps correct the buffing marks from the previous polish, then easy up on the speed and help the polish finish out and refine its own marks.

And yes DC has BnS pads for a great price, hell even the Autoality price is good- around 26 bucks for 5pk with your 10% off. And they ship free.

i havent messed around too much with v38 on my mach 1 yet, but i want to to see how it compares against sf4500-which is amazing.

When/how and at what dilution are you using IPA? You should be IPAing after each polish to eliminate the oils left behind to reveal what marks are left uncorrected and help determine how well your polish is doing its job. You should also use it before applying an LSP as it will aid HUGELY in the LSP bonding to the surface.
 
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#13 ·
Looking good man. Hope the BL works out. I'm still skeptical about BL from what I have heard.
 
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Discussion starter · #14 ·
@ modded.. Other half is clayed. Ready for the 34, 36, 38 and BL combo tomorrow. I will take the BnS pads into consideration but I really like how well the hydro foam pads clean up. I wash them by hand using a tough brush, hot water, and a tad bit of dawn. Rinse very thoroughly. Also I will pick up the IPA tomorrow after church and will wipe down before each step. What should I use to wipe it off with? Rinse? re-wash? and what is a safe dilution?

@ Blink, As far the hand vs machine application of BL. I like how the DA spreads it and works it in. I'd probably stick to that. Would like to see how well it does next to WET MIRROR or EZ CREME. My CG and AG orders should be here tues. My schedule changed up at work too so I'm off evenings and weekends. BOOM bankers hours.!
 
#15 ·
Blink43va said:
Looking good man. Hope the BL works out. I'm still skeptical about BL from what I have heard.
Click to expand...
Blacklight is like a super glaze that is slightly durable, i wouldnt use it as a stand alone LSP but it works really well if you use it on your paint then top it with a wax. I also think it would do ok on top of a good sealant. Its really for boosting reflection/gloss and enhancing color.

stangpride04 said:
@ modded.. Other half is clayed. Ready for the 34, 36, 38 and BL combo tomorrow. I will take the BnS pads into consideration but I really like how well the hydro foam pads clean up. I wash them by hand using a tough brush, hot water, and a tad bit of dawn. Rinse very thoroughly. Also I will pick up the IPA tomorrow after church and will wipe down before each step. What should I use to wipe it off with? Rinse? re-wash? and what is a safe dilution?

@ Blink, As far the hand vs machine application of BL. I like how the DA spreads it and works it in. I'd probably stick to that. Would like to see how well it does next to WET MIRROR or EZ CREME. My CG and AG orders should be here tues. My schedule changed up at work too so I'm off evenings and weekends. BOOM bankers hours.!
Click to expand...
BnS pads clean SUPER well, you can just use dawn and your hands, message it in and rinse, done.

Use IPA with a Short nap microfiber, you dont rinse it, it evaporates off the paint. A safe dilution for IPA is 10-25% so if you buy 91%IPA and dilute your IPA with distilled water @ 1 part IPA to 4 parts water, youll end up with 18.2% IPA which will be effective and safe. (Just take how many ounces of fluid your designated bottle holds and divide that number by 5, thats how many ounces of IPA to put into the bottle, then fill it the rest of the way with distilled)

Example: 16oz bottle- 16/5 = 3.2oz of IPA in your 16oz bottle, which is 1:4.

The IPA will help dissolve the oils left behind by the polish, the oils can cover up defects/buffing marks and you want to uncover them so that you know youve corrected Everything.

Get 2 bottles of 91% and a Gallon of distilled water and use a clean empty bottle ( i use an empty CG bottle, love their bottles)

PS. I would use Blacklight on a machine for 2 reasons, number 1: youll allow the micro abrasives to work alot better on a DA and help work the product into the paint. #2 Using a machine means using ALOT less product because the pad soaks up the product to the point where you dont have to keep applying more BL to the pad as much and the DA lays it down alot thinner.
 
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#16 ·
Really nice work for your first time. I wish my investment was only $600. I have well over $3k over the past year or so iirc. I would have to tally up my receipts :lol
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
ModdedMach said:
Blacklight is like a super glaze that is slightly durable, i wouldnt use it as a stand alone LSP but it works really well if you use it on your paint then top it with a wax. I also think it would do ok on top of a good sealant. Its really for boosting reflection/gloss and enhancing color.



BnS pads clean SUPER well, you can just use dawn and your hands, message it in and rinse, done.

Use IPA with a Short nap microfiber, you dont rinse it, it evaporates off the paint. A safe dilution for IPA is 10-25% so if you buy 91%IPA and dilute your IPA with distilled water @ 1 part IPA to 4 parts water, youll end up with 18.2% IPA which will be effective and safe. (Just take how many ounces of fluid your designated bottle holds and divide that number by 5, thats how many ounces of IPA to put into the bottle, then fill it the rest of the way with distilled)

Example: 16oz bottle- 16/5 = 3.2oz of IPA in your 16oz bottle, which is 1:4.

The IPA will help dissolve the oils left behind by the polish, the oils can cover up defects/buffing marks and you want to uncover them so that you know youve corrected Everything.

Get 2 bottles of 91% and a Gallon of distilled water and use a clean empty bottle ( i use an empty CG bottle, love their bottles)

PS. I would use Blacklight on a machine for 2 reasons, number 1: youll allow the micro abrasives to work alot better on a DA and help work the product into the paint. #2 Using a machine means using ALOT less product because the pad soaks up the product to the point where you dont have to keep applying more BL to the pad as much and the DA lays it down alot thinner.
Click to expand...
Alright awesome. The lab I used to work at has it all over the place. A gallon will be no problem. I'll have my old man snag one. I tried a 34, 36, 38 combo on a test panel. Loved how well the 34 worked. Did have some marring left over. That didn't come completely out till I applied the 38. Maybe I did not have enough product on when I spread it initially or maybe I was pressing too hard. I couldn't have been using more than 5 lbs of pressure

Gerbig said:
Really nice work for your first time. I wish my investment was only $600. I have well over $3k over the past year or so iirc. I would have to tally up my receipts :lol
Click to expand...
:baller: lol
 
#18 ·
stangpride04 said:
Alright awesome. The lab I used to work at has it all over the place. A gallon will be no problem. I'll have my old man snag one. I tried a 34, 36, 38 combo on a test panel. Loved how well the 34 worked. Did have some marring left over. That didn't come completely out till I applied the 38. Maybe I did not have enough product on when I spread it initially or maybe I was pressing too hard. I couldn't have been using more than 5 lbs of pressure



:baller: lol
Click to expand...
When you use v36 after v34, use a good amount of pressure for the first few passes, v36 is what is going to correct the marks from 34. Then make it all perfect with v38.

I wanna do some comparisons of v38 and SF4500.
 
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#20 ·
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stangpride04
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