I was just wondering if some of you can measure from the center of the hub to the fender well for stock and different lowering springs? I ask because my car is lowered on steeda springs, seems lower than stock mustangs and is definitely lower than it was before. But I have an adjustable panhard bar to be installed, but my axle is centered perfectly? I lowered the car when I first got it back in 08 and about 63,000 miles ago. I've never questioned how much lower the car is until I got on this site and everyone says if its lowered you need the APHB....I don't recall the name of which version of the steeda springs I bought, but they were 1.25/1.5".
Center of hub to fender well measurements?
fzr confused
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I was just wondering if some of you can measure from the center of the hub to the fender well for stock and different lowering springs? I ask because my car is lowered on steeda springs, seems lower than stock mustangs and is definitely lower than it was before. But I have an adjustable panhard bar to be installed, but my axle is centered perfectly? I lowered the car when I first got it back in 08 and about 63,000 miles ago. I've never questioned how much lower the car is until I got on this site and everyone says if its lowered you need the APHB....I don't recall the name of which version of the steeda springs I bought, but they were 1.25/1.5".
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My front is 14.5" and rear is 15.75". Anyone else?
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I'm not looking for that, I can see that my axle IS centered. I am looking to see how much my car is or is not lower than a stock mustang or other lowered mustangs. Maybe I was sent the wrong springs and its not lowered as much as it should be, since the axle is centered and I never touched the PHB.
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You know that it varies from car to another, depends if the car is base, premium, CS, vert etc.. The weight will definitely effect all that. Once you lower your car your axle won't be centered, you might not be able to see that but I can guarantee you its not centered, stock PHB will make the axle shift to the driver side.. Also the wheel diameter will determine how big the gab between the fender and the tire. The measurement you are after won't help since many factors will determine your ride height..
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I understand that weight plays a role, I have a 5sp hard top gt deluxe. The wheel size has nothing to do with the measurement I am asking for. I am not asking ground to fender or how much gap there is. Center of the hub to the fender will be the same no matter the size of the rim or the OD of the tire.
It was probably off a little from the factory and when you lowered it the axel ended up in the center. They are not all exactly centered from Ford. They are probably within a 1/4 inch from the line at the factory.
There is another thread on here with a guy on stock springs with his rear axel kicked out toward the driver's side.
There is another thread on here with a guy on stock springs with his rear axel kicked out toward the driver's side.
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Ride height and axle center are two different measurements. I know what you are asking for, but I don't get why.
Steeda Sport springs lower your car 1.5" in the rear.
Call Steeda and ask them what you ordered. If they are not Sports they are likely Ultralights.
Steeda Sport springs lower your car 1.5" in the rear.
Call Steeda and ask them what you ordered. If they are not Sports they are likely Ultralights.
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I emailed them with the part numbers a few weeks ago and no reply. I was wondering if they possibly had a spring which dropped the car less than 1.5". I really want the car about a half inch lower than it is now, but I've been told for "track use" stay at 1.5" lower. If the springs I have are only say 1", then I could lower it just a hair more and be happy.
What kind of "track use" are you talking about? If you're talking about the drag strip, you don't want to lower it at all. If you are talking road course or autoX I would go as low as your allowed. Don't know which one would be OK at 1 1/2". If you're looking for gains at the track I would go either real low or stock height depending on what kind of racing you're going to be doing.
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I'm more of a drag race fan but I want to get into road courses once this isn't my daily again. People told me that much lower would screw with the geometry? I'm not worried about being lower slowing down my 1/4 mile time.
Well any time you lower it you are going to change up the geometry. When you lower it, many things happen. You move the center of gravity away from the instant center and usually the spring rate will help compensate for the added body roll, but you may want to look at stiffer or adjustable sway bars. Steering geometry will need some help to with either different A-arm/K-member or ball joints to get the tie rods parallel to the A-arms again and get rid of any bump steer. Lot's of things to think about with changing up your suspension. You should become familiar with the rules for the different classes to make sure you stay within the class you wanna race. Whiskey will be able to help you with that.
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Well I do have a CHE brace with TL's, so that is gunna help some. I wanted to go lower because I like the look and less wheel gap. I want to go with a slightly taller tire especially after running my 295/35/18's and seeing the HUGE gap. I was going to run that tire size before I saw how much gap there was.
---------- Post added at 06:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:08 PM ----------
My springs say steeda superlites...which I can not find info on just sports and ultralites. I can find the superlites for older mustangs but not s197's.
My rear is 1/16" to the drivers side.
---------- Post added at 06:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:08 PM ----------
My springs say steeda superlites...which I can not find info on just sports and ultralites. I can find the superlites for older mustangs but not s197's.
My rear is 1/16" to the drivers side.
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