Modded Mustang Forums banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Hoosier QTP's, With or Without Tubes?

Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
0

07 Boss

· Registered
Joined
·
13,686 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Like it says, getting ready to order my tires. 28x11.5x15, 28x13.5x15 or 29' in either one of those cross sections.

First question: Will I need tubes, and if running tubes, would I have to screw the bead in?

Second question: Which size should I get? I'm getting the RA Cobra Jet Springs and not sure if the 29" or the fatter 28" will fit. Can anyone chime in with an opinion and explain why you would pick a certain size over the other?
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#2 ·
No tubes here, been fine and knows tons of people who don't run tubes.
I lose no air at all even in storage. I am running the 26x11.5x15's on a 15x8.

If you run tubes you have to drill/screw the wheels because if the tube moves you're snapping the valve stem.
 
#4 ·
No tubes here but I did give them a good coating of dish washing soap on the inside. This supposedly helps them hold air better.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#5 ·
69fastback said:
You don't have to screw them if you run tubes. That actually sounds like an incredibly good way to poke a hole (or 40) in a tube.
Click to expand...
If your tire moves on the rim you're snapping/ripping the valve stem that the tube is attached to which is sticking out of the rim, it's physics.
You can't defy physics.
 
#6 ·
fdjizm said:
If your tire moves on the rim you're snapping/ripping the valve stem that the tube is attached to which is sticking out of the rim, it's physics.
You can't defy physics.
Click to expand...
Really? Because I cut 1.29-1.30 60's on slicks, with tubes, and no screws about 70-80 times per year. I guess I can defy physics.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
fdjizm said:
If your tire moves on the rim you're snapping/ripping the valve stem that the tube is attached to which is sticking out of the rim, it's physics.
You can't defy physics.
Click to expand...
Wait, aren't you the same guy running extended lug nuts with a spacer instead of getting the right size studs? But you would drill a bunch of holes in your rims if you were running tubes?

69 would you run tubes or not? And how much of an advantage would it be for me to run the extra sidewall of the wider cross section tire? Remember I'm driving an automatic with a 3400 stall (gonna get it restalled to like 2500-2800). Probably never going to run faster than mid 11's at this point in my build.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#8 ·
Screws are kind of up to you, and you actually can run them with tubes, because the screws don't go all the way through the bead. I don't run them, and I hit my tires hard, and it's never been a problem. They just seem like an in needed pita at this level, to me.

Tire size is kind of tough, as it depends on your setup. I would think the 28X11.5 would be best, because that should hook your car up fine, and a bigger tire can slow you down. More drag, and more rotating mass do make a difference. A taller tire reduces your gear ratio, so unless you're go through the traps on the limiter, I'd stay with a 28" tire. Plenty of sidewall there to do work.

What size is your wheel? A 28X10.5 may even be better. That's what I run, and I only have an 8" wheel, but it really depends on how well your car hooks. My car will hook on an ice rink.


EDIT: I didn't answer the actual question you asked. Are you going to be leaving these tires on the car all the time? If you're not, I wouldn't run tubes, because they're just more rotating mass. If you don't run tubes, sometimes they still hold air, and I think the Hoosiers are better about keeping air than MTs. If you're leaving them on the car all the time and you're worried about them going down, you should run tubes.

You can always try it without tubes, and if they leak, you can add the tubes later.
 
#9 ·
69fastback said:
Really? Because I cut 1.29-1.30 60's on slicks, with tubes, and no screws about 70-80 times per year. I guess I can defy physics.
Click to expand...
IF YOUR TIRE MOVES ON YOUR RIM. IF.

lol.


07 Boss said:
Wait, aren't you the same guy running extended lug nuts with a spacer instead of getting the right size studs? But you would drill a bunch of holes in your rims if you were running tubes?

69 would you run tubes or not? And how much of an advantage would it be for me to run the extra sidewall of the wider cross section tire? Remember I'm driving an automatic with a 3400 stall (gonna get it restalled to like 2500-2800). Probably never going to run faster than mid 11's at this point in my build.
Click to expand...
Yes I am "that guy"... I don't see the issue with the lugnuts.
I'd love for you to link me to an "extended lugnut" horror story. :)
 
#11 ·
No it's not the case, it's a safe and common practice though.
To each their own of course, everyone does different things.
Kind of me and my "crazy dangerous lugnuts"...
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
69fastback said:
Screws are kind of up to you, and you actually can run them with tubes, because the screws don't go all the way through the bead. I don't run them, and I hit my tires hard, and it's never been a problem. They just seem like an in needed pita at this level, to me.

Tire size is kind of tough, as it depends on your setup. I would think the 28X11.5 would be best, because that should hook your car up fine, and a bigger tire can slow you down. More drag, and more rotating mass do make a difference. A taller tire reduces your gear ratio, so unless you're go through the traps on the limiter, I'd stay with a 28" tire. Plenty of sidewall there to do work.

What size is your wheel? A 28X10.5 may even be better. That's what I run, and I only have an 8" wheel, but it really depends on how well your car hooks. My car will hook on an ice rink.


EDIT: I didn't answer the actual question you asked. Are you going to be leaving these tires on the car all the time? If you're not, I wouldn't run tubes, because they're just more rotating mass. If you don't run tubes, sometimes they still hold air, and I think the Hoosiers are better about keeping air than MTs. If you're leaving them on the car all the time and you're worried about them going down, you should run tubes.

You can always try it without tubes, and if they leak, you can add the tubes later.
Click to expand...
No I'm not on the limiter at the line but I'm leaving more on the table at the starting line. I was running a 29" DR on an 18" rim and it turned my 4.10's into 3,83's. Which is OK because my convertor stalls too high now that I'm making gobs of torque down low with the Whipple, and with the kind of track prep we get, it all leads to traction issues off the line and my shift into second. I actually have to lift sometimes to keep it straight after she shifts outa first.

I'm doing a bunch of stuff to the rear to try and get lome better 60's this year and tires on 15x10 RaceStars is just one of the pieces to the puzzle. I think I'm going to go with the 28x11.5's , I was just concerned with lowering my gear ratio, defeating what I am trying to accomplish. Also going in besides the Cobra Jet springs and tires is a new Auburn Pro LSD and some Viking Racing dbl adj shocks. If I can cut some low 1.6 60' times, maybe even a 1.5, I think I should run mid 11's. And like you said the smaller tires will help me a little bit on the top end too.

I think you're right though, at this level I don't think screws are necessary. And the tires are only for the track and maybe the drive to the track. I usually put a white stripe on my tire so I can more easily watch the wheel spin on video. I will just put it at the valve stem to see if I get any movement. I haven't figured out all the logistics of swapping them at the track because I don't want the street wheels sitting in the back seat going down the 1320. That just doesn't make sense to me. I've even thought about chaining them to a light pole while I raced but that just seemed kinda ghetto.



fdjizm said:
Yes I am "that guy"... I don't see the issue with the lugnuts.
I'd love for you to link me to an "extended lugnut" horror story. :)
Click to expand...
I've seen a broken one in person. And to get that extended part off is near impossible. I wouldn't use them just for that reason. But with that said, I've seen regular lug nuts broken too. I've seen failures caused by wheel spacers, though yours are pretty small. And I've seen studs sheared off. But what I was getting at is that it seems pretty easy to get the right size studs. I haven't done ours but they probably can be hammered or pressed right out and new ones installed pretty easily. And it takes away one weak link in a chain that when it breaks, can lead to some pretty catostrophic consequences.

BUT, you would drill holes in your two rims on the chance that the tire would slip on the rim far enough to rip the valve stem off? That is the part that confused me. Getting the right size studs put in seems like an easy and logical decision to make, while drilling a bunch of holes in my pretty new black chrome finished RaceStars makes me shudder and second guess myself.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#13 ·
I think going to a 28" tire on a 15" wheel will help you out over the 29" tire on an 18" wheel. That's concerning that you had that much problem hooking up before though. Lol

Do you know where it made peak torque? I just hope tightening up the converter doesn't make it hit the tires harder. It's a little different deal, but in the race car we will actually loosen the converter up on a slick track to get it above the peak torque, to soften the hit. We are operating on the high side of the power curve, instead of the bottom side, like yours. I've never really messed with a blower car, and I know it's a bit different than nitrous, as far as getting the converter right.


That sucks about swapping the tires. That's why I love my trailer. Lol. Any chance you get someone to go with you, to haul your stuff, and watch it while you run?
 
Discussion starter · #14 · (Edited)
Well I'm making over 400 ftlbs at 3K RPM's and it is a very flat torque curve topping out at 436 ft lbs at just under 3500. The 3000 RPM stall was good when I was N/A with 300 and something ftlbs, but once I upped the power the stall speed went up to 3400-3500 RPM's. My thought process is that I should be flash stalling at 2800-3000. So if I get it restalled to 2500-2700, that should be pretty good. I was always taught that you should be stalling anywhere from 500-750 RPM's before your peak torque to apply the most power to the ground. I was thinking that it is stalling right around my peak power so that if it would hit a little earlier in the power curve, it would hit softer and still get all the area under the curve applied to the wheels. I'm not sure that with my really flat torque curve that setting it to stall after peak torque is going to soften the hit as much as going before it. I'm going to wait and see until when I get my suspension and drivetrain put back together how it is going to be before making a final decision on the convertor stall.

Some days I have friends and family available to "trailer" my stuff, but with everybody's hectic schedules, and our limited track days, I can't be picky about which days I race and more often than not, am on my own. I've even thought about a small 48" trailer and one of those hidden tow hitches for the Stang. That has been my best option so far that I can think of.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Well it looks like a 28" tire is going to be ordered. Looking further at my two choices the 11.5" cross section is actually 11.2" with a 10" tread, 22 lbs., and suggested rim width of 8" - 10". The 13.5" cross section is actuall 12.7" with an 11" tread, 23 lbs and suggested rim width of 10" - 12". With the 10" rim width bolded with the 13.5" cross section makes we believe it would fit my 10" rims better than the smaller cross section tire, is that proper thinking? And the 1 lb. difference in weight, is that going to be that big of a deal?
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #18 ·
69fastback said:
Who is doing your converter work?
Click to expand...
Precision Industries. I have their triple disc convertor. And when I bought it it came with one free restall. I just have to pull it and send it to them. It's kinda a hassle doing it in my garage on my back so I'm hoping I can avoid it. I'm also going to switch over from SCT to the HP Tuners pretty soon. From what I understand is that their software allows me to work with convertor lock up but I'm not sure how much control it actually has. This is my first electronically controlled transmission and I'm still wrapping my fingers around exactly how these things work.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#19 ·
07 Boss said:
Precision Industries. I have their triple disc convertor. And when I bought it it came with one free restall. I just have to pull it and send it to them. It's kinda a hassle doing it in my garage on my back so I'm hoping I can avoid it. I'm also going to switch over from SCT to the HP Tuners pretty soon. From what I understand is that their software allows me to work with convertor lock up but I'm not sure how much control it actually has. This is my first electronically controlled transmission and I'm still wrapping my fingers around exactly how these things work.
Click to expand...
Computers are great...lol


Have you shown them your dyno sheet? Definitely go with whatever they recommend. A GoPro video of your tach during a pass is also beneficial for them doing a restall.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Just thought I would share.



I like the rims too, wasn't sure about my choice but I think they look nice on my silver car. Gonna have to get the matching skinnies up front though
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
About this Discussion
27 Replies
7 Participants
Last post:
07 Boss
Modded Mustang Forums
posts
6.3M
members
83K
Since
2005
A forum community dedicated to all Ford Mustang owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, builds, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
96 - 04 Modular Mustangs 5.0 Mustangs New Members Introductions Classic Mustangs