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Yeah I'm going to use a punch and then tap the pan for a bung for the feed. Friend of mine says that is how they do it at the speed shop he works at so that they don't have to take the pans off.

Still curious as to the sending unit and the oil feed line. I'm not near my car so I can't go look lol
 
does the oil pressure sending unit for an electric gauge and the oil feed line go on the same hole in the block? like the one above the filter ?
On the end of the oil pump (not the block) there is a plug that has an Allen head key on it. You take this out, and put an oring fitting in it to feed oil to an accessory, like a turbo. The stock sending unit location for the oil pressure is where I put my sender for my oil pressure gauge since the stock one is an on/off switch. I just grounded my stock oil pressure signal wire to the block so the needle just goes to the middle of the stock gauge so it doesn't look funny lol.
 
On the end of the oil pump (not the block) there is a plug that has an Allen head key on it. You take this out, and put an oring fitting in it to feed oil to an accessory, like a turbo. The stock sending unit location for the oil pressure is where I put my sender for my oil pressure gauge since the stock one is an on/off switch. I just grounded my stock oil pressure signal wire to the block so the needle just goes to the middle of the stock gauge so it doesn't look funny lol.
ah okay. I didn't realize that there was a plug on the oil pump. Well that makes things a bit easier.
 
Yeah I'm going to use a punch and then tap the pan for a bung for the feed. Friend of mine says that is how they do it at the speed shop he works at so that they don't have to take the pans off.

Still curious as to the sending unit and the oil feed line. I'm not near my car so I can't go look lol
You can only use the punch method on steel oil pans, ours are cast aluminum and must be drilled /tapped. I hope these pics help.

here you can see the autometer sending unit in place of the stock one.

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pan drilled with a hole saw, when you get to this point you stick a screwdriver in the pilot hole and break this part out to eliminate the chance of it falling in the pan by drilling all the way through

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bottom right hand corner you can see the new fitting on the timing cover for the oil feed

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this fitting comes out of the stock timing cover, and then your two fittings to mount the line thread right in.

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Just had it running for a few secs.. Have some other stuff to finish up but at least it runs.
No pics? No vids? You, sir, did not deliver when presenting this news. Congrats!

BTW Slow, I have mine set up like Goose's as well. Autometer gauge sender where the stock sender is, and the oil feed off of the pump. The autometer gauge sender is a bit tricky to get in there but it will fit. Just have to do some test fitting to find out the angles for the fittings to have it sit behind the ps bracket support.
 
Are the 4.6 oil pans aluminum as well?

---------- Post added at 02:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:47 PM ----------

ordered the fittings and lines for the oil stuff, think I have it all covered.

one 36" -10 AN stainless braided hose.
one 36" -4 AN stainless braided hose
one turbonetics oil drain flange and gasket. the flange is 1/2" NPT female
2x -10 an to 1/2" NPT straight adapters.
1x -10 AN straight hose end to 1/2" NPT female
1x -45* -10 AN hose end to 1/2" NPT female
2x -4 AN to 1/4" NPT straight adapters.
1x -4 AN to 1/8" NPT straight (don't think I need this but it was $2 so whatever)
2x -4 AN 90* bend to 1/4" NPT female.

came out to $124.... **** adds up quick.
 
Are the 4.6 oil pans aluminum as well?

---------- Post added at 02:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:47 PM ----------

ordered the fittings and lines for the oil stuff, think I have it all covered.

one 36" -10 AN stainless braided hose.
one 36" -4 AN stainless braided hose
one turbonetics oil drain flange and gasket. the flange is 1/2" NPT female
2x -10 an to 1/2" NPT straight adapters.
1x -10 AN straight hose end to 1/2" NPT female
1x -45* -10 AN hose end to 1/2" NPT female
2x -4 AN to 1/4" NPT straight adapters.
1x -4 AN to 1/8" NPT straight (don't think I need this but it was $2 so whatever)
2x -4 AN 90* bend to 1/4" NPT female.

came out to $124.... **** adds up quick.
Looks like a good list. yah, AN fittings are rediculous. I want to go return style fuel but I would need close to $300 worth of lines/fittings to do it. Lame.
 
Lol I took it apart halloween 2012.. But I covered about every base within reason so it couldve been worse lol


That's about the last time mine ran. :whackylol:

---------- Post added at 02:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:30 PM ----------

Are the 4.6 oil pans aluminum as well?

---------- Post added at 02:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:47 PM ----------

ordered the fittings and lines for the oil stuff, think I have it all covered.

one 36" -10 AN stainless braided hose.
one 36" -4 AN stainless braided hose
one turbonetics oil drain flange and gasket. the flange is 1/2" NPT female
2x -10 an to 1/2" NPT straight adapters.
1x -10 AN straight hose end to 1/2" NPT female
1x -45* -10 AN hose end to 1/2" NPT female
2x -4 AN to 1/4" NPT straight adapters.
1x -4 AN to 1/8" NPT straight (don't think I need this but it was $2 so whatever)
2x -4 AN 90* bend to 1/4" NPT female.

came out to $124.... **** adds up quick.


Do you have or does your turbo need the restrictive orifice for the oil feed?
 
That's about the last time mine ran. :whackylol:

---------- Post added at 02:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:30 PM ----------





Do you have or does your turbo need the restrictive orifice for the oil feed?
That I do not know. I think the fitting on the feed currently is a restrictor though.
 
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