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Yeah I think that a set of gears, input shaft and Circle D 3k will be very fun combined with those those tires. Because I know for a fact that if I get gears, my tires will be hopelessly useless because even with my stocker 3.31 gears, 1st is pretty much useless and I catch rubber in half to 3/4 of 2nd. Pretty fun lighting them up from a 20 roll at will though. Haha!
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Yea its fun to do, but not fun as a v6 camaro pulls ya hahaha. 4.10s and 295s just sucked.
 
Sounds like driver mod needed there. Haha! I have yet to have a V6 anything give me any kind of run. With the exception of the new 3.7L Mustangs. They can half-ass hang with me in top end. Only advantage I have is more tq.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
I was joking lol. but im pretty decent on the launch, but slamming second just spins before. So adding the gears and then having to baby it just wasnt fun...now its fun!
 
Yeah I feel you on that one. How does it grab from a dig? Can you hit it hard and just go or is there still some serious spinnage?
 
Glad to hear you're liking them. I try to tell people that tires should be the very first performance mod they should do. I always get the reply that there is plenty of miles left on the old ones, etc. Then I ask them how many more miles could they have gotten out of their stock intake before they replaced it with a CAI? Then they start to understand that they can replace things before they are worn out.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
Ive only driven about 20 miles on them so they still have some factory goo on them. My wife was with me for most of those miles and she doesnt like it when I play around lol

As far as upgrading tires I totally agree. The 295s I had were great with the 3.55s lol. Once the 4.10s it was game over.
 
**** me, so you were still spinning bad with 295 wide tires?? What brand were they? I'm looking for a great grabbing street tire that is nearly a DR but not quite. Have my eye on the BFG Rival, but they don't have many sizes in them. Any other tires you guys would recommend? I mean, I plan on running a 15" combo for drag use at the track, but would like a decent hooking tire that I can DD safely without having to worry with rain.
 
The 295s I had were great with the 3.55s lol. Once the 4.10s it was game over.
This is one thing that worries me. I went with 295/45/18 NT555s as a better all-around tire option as I'm guessing NT05Rs or NT555Rs would be horrible if it's a cold or wet out. I still plan on getting 4.10s (i'm doing the panhard brace first) but I don't wanna be going sideways everytime I take off. I guess I'll have to see how the 4.10s and 295/45 NT555s feel. No track time, just romping around town and to car shows.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
I had bfg kdws (flame pattern). They were short 295/35/18 so it made the 4.10 more like 4.30s. Tires are also kinda old and were showing some cracks. Sooo, your results may vary lol.
 
Ahhh! Very true then. The 295/45/18s are a bit taller so the effective gear ratio would only be somewhere around 3.90. So maybe it won't be bad.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
With a 45 series the 4.10s will be fine.
 
You guys have to remember that all tires are going to have a limit. It is all about your right foot. Throttle control is the key. Even with my Hoosier cheater slicks and a long smokey burn out, I still can't just mash the pedal to the floor out of the hole. Even shifting into second the car wants to wiggle around back there. Yes they help immensely, but you can't just rely on the tires to control traction. There comes a point where the car is not the issue with traction. The issue lies with the driver. I'm not saying anyone is a shitty driver or anything. What I am saying is that you can't expect your car to do everything for you. Sometimes you have to lower the expectations of the car and raise the bar on the driver.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
There also comes a point when the tires are just too old, hard and dry :).
 
I agree on the driver part, but if you have proper traction, then with legit slicks on a good track, you should pretty much dead hook. That will do one of a few things........... Launch you out of the hole like a rocket, roast the clutch, break the input shaft, axles or even a stock DS or u-joints. Street tires and DR will have some spin at times, especially with high hp but slicks should hook like fly paper.
 
I agree on the driver part, but if you have proper traction, then with legit slicks on a good track, you should pretty much dead hook. That will do one of a few things........... Launch you out of the hole like a rocket, roast the clutch, break the input shaft, axles or even a stock DS or u-joints. Street tires and DR will have some spin at times, especially with high hp but slicks should hook like fly paper.
Not necessarily true. Slicks have a ton more grip but there comes a point when torque will overcome that. My drivetrain is rated at a much higher power level than I am producing, my slicks will spin way before anything breaks. Part of that is suspension set up, but throttle control is what keeps my tires planted. I can guarantee that if you hit lock up with my convertor at WOT you will spin the tires. I have to ease into the throttle to get off the line clean. When I say ease into it, I'm talking about a couple tenths of a second, maybe. But if you just mash it to the floor it will come out sideways. Even when she shifts into second there are times that I have had to pedal it to get the tires to grab again. My point being is that for any given tire, there comes a point where the driver has to maintain the traction.
 
I agree on the driver part, but if you have proper traction, then with legit slicks on a good track, you should pretty much dead hook. That will do one of a few things........... Launch you out of the hole like a rocket, roast the clutch, break the input shaft, axles or even a stock DS or u-joints. Street tires and DR will have some spin at times, especially with high hp but slicks should hook like fly paper.
its still all comes down to setup. tires are just one piece of a complicated system.
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
i am going to have to do a bit more practice to relearn how to launch. my first gear/get out of the whole was normally pretty decent, it was mostly the 1-2 shift were i had the problems. now i need to figure out just how much gas i can give this bugger now off the line! i am pretty impressed by them so far, barely any slip, i feel just the right amount at full throttle in first gear.


anyway, i have an ABS question. with my setup now, i have ~27.7" in the rear and ~27.3 in the front, so just slightly off. will this cause my ABS to kick on earlier thinking that the front is spinning slower than the rear? i ask because today just once it felt like the ABS was kicking on when i was just slowing down, not hard braking at all.
 
i have an ABS question. with my setup now, i have ~27.7" in the rear and ~27.3 in the front, so just slightly off. will this cause my ABS to kick on earlier thinking that the front is spinning slower than the rear? i ask because today just once it felt like the ABS was kicking on when i was just slowing down, not hard braking at all.
Interesting you bring this up. Plenty thought I'd have ABS issues too (and I'd expect them). That's why I'm looking to update my tuner to adjust for the tire size. With my setup now, the stock tires are 27.18" up front and 28.45" out back, but I haven't noticed any ABS issues. I've had her on the highway a few times too.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
with a tuner they only adjust the size for the rear/speedo....unless they can adjust for ABS? and like i said, it only happened once, not really sure why. i tried to make it happen again, doing similar but it didnt.
 
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