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Curbed my car really bad tonight :/

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ColdStang

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So tonight I had a little run in with a curb... :nopity:
And well... I curbed my left rim pretty bad, it's pulling really hard to the left, and when I turn the wheel fully to the right then the left, it makes a really bad popping sound. No extra wobble or noise when I'm driving, it just pulls. I'm gonna get under the car tomorrow before work and check it out, but for the guys who know a lot about suspension, is there anything to look out for?

The good news is, I'll finally be able to spend some cash on my car... just not where I wanted it to go. :facepalm:
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
izzy1111 said:
Also check the tie rods, tug them towards the wheel and back, see if theres play.
Click to expand...
Yeah man thanks, I checked everything and there is not really any play in anything, everything feels good except for the inner tie rod is bent to hell. I'll put up pics later.

But this morning I checked my car, the tire that I hit had a crap load of positive camber, like really bad, but the inner part of my tire was worn bad too. Could that be the bend inner tie rod causing that extreme camber?
 
#7 ·
Stop driving it with a damaged tie rod like that or you could be in for worse damage. But it does sound like the tie rod is your culprit. Like posted above new tie rod and a good alignment and you should be on your way.
 
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#8 ·
ColdStang said:
So tonight I had a little run in with a curb... :nopity:
And well... I curbed my left rim pretty bad, it's pulling really hard to the left, and when I turn the wheel fully to the right then the left, it makes a really bad popping sound. No extra wobble or noise when I'm driving, it just pulls. I'm gonna get under the car tomorrow before work and check it out, but for the guys who know a lot about suspension, is there anything to look out for?

The good news is, I'll finally be able to spend some cash on my car... just not where I wanted it to go. :facepalm:
Click to expand...
When I did the same thing on my 2007, It was the spring that popped out that was making the popping sound... I hope that's what it is so you don't need to spend much money on the car.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
98SnakeHorse said:
Stop driving it with a damaged tie rod like that or you could be in for worse damage. But it does sound like the tie rod is your culprit. Like posted above new tie rod and a good alignment and you should be on your way.
Click to expand...
Oh yeah man I know, I just had to get it home haha.

---------- Post added at 11:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:42 AM ----------

RushXTC said:
When I did the same thing on my 2007, It was the spring that popped out that was making the popping sound... I hope that's what it is so you don't need to spend much money on the car.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that man, didnt think of checking this!
 
#14 ·
Pull the wheel off and take another pic. Im guessing the strut is pointing to the rear a bit. Check the k-member to see if it shifted. Measure the distance between the radiator support and the k-member and compare the left to the right. Pop the hood and check the strut tower for and damage. Whatever you did you hit it pretty hard by the looks of it. The door to fender gap is still uniform so i doubt the frame is damaged much if at all. The k-member shifting is my first guess. Check the endlinks to. Ive seen them bend already, usually at the bushings.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
fb93 said:
Pull the wheel off and take another pic. Im guessing the strut is pointing to the rear a bit. Check the k-member to see if it shifted. Measure the distance between the radiator support and the k-member and compare the left to the right. Pop the hood and check the strut tower for and damage. Whatever you did you hit it pretty hard by the looks of it. The door to fender gap is still uniform so i doubt the frame is damaged much if at all. The k-member shifting is my first guess. Check the endlinks to. Ive seen them bend already, usually at the bushings.
Click to expand...
Yeah man, I checked it out and didn't find any big differences, strut wasn't bent or misplaced at all. I eventually had my insurance take care of it because I need a car to drive and have to have the car towed and the last time I towed a car to the closest trust-able shop, it cost like 100 dollars. So yeah, plus the price of a rim and tire, rental car, parts and labor and what not I just let them take care of it, figured it'd get done faster lol.
 
#17 ·
^ probably cheaper too since the shop will be charging the insurance rate rather than the average joe rate.
 
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Discussion starter · #18 ·
So... I got an update from the shop, apparently I need a new k-member, control arm, they're doing all the bushings, rim, tire, and throwing it on the frame machine...

Oh, and an increase in my insurance rate lol.
 
#19 ·
if you have any interest in drag racing or road racing, now may be a good time to get an aftermarket K member and aftermarket a-arms with coil overs.
 
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Discussion starter · #20 ·
Derfdog15 said:
if you have any interest in drag racing or road racing, now may be a good time to get an aftermarket K member and aftermarket a-arms with coil overs.
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I was going to ask the shop that was doing my work if they would do it because the insurance company is paying lol but I ended up not asking.

I have a 99 coupe that i have some plans for!
This is just gonna be a all show no go DD for a while lol.
 
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