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evo2s197

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
A few years back I put roush 1" drop rear springs on my GT, recently I came across a deal on the matching front pair on eBay for $80 shipped so I pulled the trigger. Trying to improve the worn out 80k suspension.

These are my questions:

I plan on getting a DSS Driveshaft, on their site they say no pinion angle adjustment needed, does that mean I can upgrade to a BMR non adjustable UCA and mount or do I need a adjustable UCA?

Do I need a bumpsteer kit and raised ball joints with the 1" drop or can I just upgrade to BMR non adjustable A arms stock ball joint height and no bumpsteer kit.

And would Koni STR.T dampers be a good match with the Roush springs and BMR front and rear sway bars?

My parts Iplan on plan on purchasing or purchased already:

DSS Driveshaft
Roush 1" drop springs
Koni STR.T dampers
J&M camber plates
BMR front and rear sway bars
BMR UCA non adjustable and mount
BMR panhard bar
BMR LCA and bracket
BMR front A Arm
BMR A Arm support brace

Missing anything?
 
#2 ·
evo2s197 said:
I plan on getting a DSS Driveshaft, on their site they say so pinion angle adjustment needed, does that mean I can upgrade to a BMR non adjustable UCA and mount or do I need a adjustable UCA?
Click to expand...
How do you plan on adjusting pinion angle without an adjustable arm?
 
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#4 ·
No pinion angle adjustment needed for a car at stock height, I'm assuming. And you said you were going to lower it. If the angle is correct at stock height, it will be off with it lowered 1", no? And besides, you're going to be removing some of the slop of the stock bushings with poly ones, that should require a change in angle also.
 
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#5 ·
evo2s197 said:
A few years back I put roush 1" drop rear springs on my GT, recently I came across a deal on the matching front pair on eBay for $80 shipped so I pulled the trigger. Trying to improve the worn out 80k suspension.

These are my questions:

I plan on getting a DSS Driveshaft, on their site they say no pinion angle adjustment needed, does that mean I can upgrade to a BMR non adjustable UCA and mount or do I need a adjustable UCA?

Do I need a bumpsteer kit and raised ball joints with the 1" drop or can I just upgrade to BMR non adjustable A arms stock ball joint height and no bumpsteer kit.

And would Koni STR.T dampers be a good match with the Roush springs and BMR front and rear sway bars?

My parts Iplan on plan on purchasing or purchased already:

DSS Driveshaft
Roush 1" drop springs
Koni STR.T dampers
J&M camber plates
BMR front and rear sway bars
BMR UCA non adjustable and mount
BMR panhard bar
BMR LCA and bracket
BMR front A Arm
BMR A Arm support brace

Missing anything?
Click to expand...
I would get an adjustable UCA because nothing is ever "certain" with regards to driveline vibrations.

No you don't need either the bumpsteer kit or the taller ball joints, although you certainly can if you want. They have to go together though. Taller ball joints = bumpsteer kit.

Yes Koni STR.T's would work fine with the Roush Springs and BMR swaybars.

I would buy a different set of camber plates, but that is just me. MM, Ground Control or Vorshlag. Pricey, but worth it.

I know Jay at Hypermotive can get you taken care of on the BMR parts so don't hesitate to give them a call! :)
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
I'm just confused about the DSS driveshaft, it has a CV joint right at the axle end, I'm not too sure how an adjustable UCA would benefit me. If I don't need a bumpsteer kit I can put the money saved towards MM plates.
 
#7 ·
evo2s197 said:
I'm just confused about the DSS driveshaft, it has a CV joint right at the axle end, I'm not too sure how an adjustable UCA would benefit me. If I don't need a bumpsteer kit I can put the money saved towards MM plates.
Click to expand...
CV joints work great at transmitting forces equally while rotating and they deal with bad driveline angles but you can still get vibration through them. The other thing is you still have a conventional U-joint out back which is where drivetrain loss is going to be present. Having the right angle there helps reduce vibration and drivetrain loss.
 
#12 ·
modernbeat said:
I've had better success with a fixed upper arm and adjustable lower arms.
Click to expand...
Yeah, but then you have to start worrying about thrust angle. Just seems easier to have to deal with the one arm.
 
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Discussion starter · #13 ·
I'll stick with the adjustable UCA the adjustable LCA's don't instill any confidence of them not being a weak point when I look at them, I'll much rather have beefed up looking boxed non adjustable LCA's with just the UCA to deal with, I'll do the differential bushing while I'm at it, looks easy enough.
 
#14 ·
Boxed? You want strong? Solid billet is the way to go.

 
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Discussion starter · #15 ·
I don't need solid billet BMR's, boxed BMR LCA's are plenty strong, if I break those ilI already have more issues to worry about before then. Turnbuckle looking LCA's just don't seem right I prefer non adjustable.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Instead of camber plates, what about gt500 mounts and just point the arrow inward, I have read with FRPP "p" spring and the roush springs that I have which are both 1" drop springs, the camber will stay within spec.
 
#17 ·
evo2s197 said:
Instead of camber plates, what about gt500 mounts and just point the arrow inward, I have read with FRPP "p" spring and the roush springs that I have which are both 1" drop springs, the camber will stay within spec.
Click to expand...
You honestly wouldn't have to flip them even. I'm on Eibach Prokit springs, within spec, and have the GT500 mounts. That being said, I have a pair of the Steeda mounts sitting in the storage/garage unit. It's not uncommon for the GT500 mounts to fail and/or make a **** ton of noise. By the time you've bought 2 sets, you could have just bought a solid set of CC plates.
 
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#18 ·
I've seen and even used the clocking method with the strut mounts. Yes it does move the top of the strut a little bit outboard, lessening the amount of negative camber. Exactly how many degrees that it equates to, I have know idea.

Here are my thoughts on this. First off, the little bit of added negative camber that both my ProKit and Cobra Jet springs produced was pretty minimal, and according to my measurements, was only out of spec by about 1 degree. I actually like the the way she handles now. The little bit of added grip and crisper initial turn in response, I found to be quite desirable. I felt it helped with the understeer that these cars come with from the factory.

Second, the strut mounts are a weak point in our suspensions. Even getting the GT500 ones can be hit or miss as far as durability. Clocking the mounts just adds stress to an already stressed part. The force it is supposed to hold is now being applied at an angle instead of straight on as originally designed. IMO this can cause premature failure of a part that is supposed to be prone to failure and just adds to the probability of having issues.

I would first mount up everything and see how she handles first. If you feel like camber adjustment is necessary, then go with some aftermarket adjustable strut mounts instead of clocking the OEM ones.
 
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Discussion starter · #19 ·
I purchased a set of new steeda HD mounts on another forum for a great price along with all new OEM spring isolators, top and bottom front and rear, they all look cracked or worn out, but looking at the steeda instructions I'm not sure if I reuse the 40+ bearings from my old strut mounts or not.

Do I install all 40+ bearings and plastic retainer raceway into my new upper front spring isolator and then the steeda HD mount pivots and moves on those, or does the Steeda piece come with it's own bearings/bearing and I'm only needing the spring isolator by itself?

I'm not sure if I'm making sense or not.
 
#20 ·
Have you looked at the install instructions?
 
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