I saw this thread over in the sixxer section, figured we could make one over here. If your like me I get on here to see what other people do to there mustangs to get ideas of what to do to mine (and like to look at pictures!). Anything from performance mods to custom painting in the interior could be thrown around here. I will start it off... I added SLP Loudmouth exhaust to my 2008 GT over the weekend, I will add pics tomorrow!
What Did You Do To Your GT Today?
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ufc94champ
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No part out?! 
---------- Post added at 06:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:37 PM ----------
Ended up having 2 lug nuts weren't right enough. So the wheel wasn't fully on. No idea how that happened. Hit them all with the impact. Tightened em up and car's fine. Just gotta adjust the phb and get camber bolts because I forgot to buy them haha.
---------- Post added at 06:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:37 PM ----------
Ended up having 2 lug nuts weren't right enough. So the wheel wasn't fully on. No idea how that happened. Hit them all with the impact. Tightened em up and car's fine. Just gotta adjust the phb and get camber bolts because I forgot to buy them haha.
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5,914 Posts
Details?
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1,827 Posts
^ What will you be replacing it with?
I have camber bolts and they kind of suck. If I were to do it again I would go for steeda HD mounts. Or a CC plate of some sort.No part out?!
---------- Post added at 06:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:37 PM ----------
Ended up having 2 lug nuts weren't right enough. So the wheel wasn't fully on. No idea how that happened. Hit them all with the impact. Tightened em up and car's fine. Just gotta adjust the phb and get camber bolts because I forgot to buy them haha.
Like he said, we need details. Diff work on jack stands on a lowered car is rough, which is why I paid the $250 for labor for my gears.
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Well it took me 4 hours to get the rear axle out of the car and a bunch of rather pointless removing of wheels, putting them back on, removing them again, lifting up stuff, lowering stuff. It shouldn't have taken that long but it did. A lift would have been great for this. There was also no way in hell I was doing this work with the car on jackstands and the rear end hanging from the car. Not enough room for my large persons and all that sliding around on my back to get things installed sucks.
By the time I got started on the rear axle I had pissed away the morning. Start working on getting everything out of the rear axle and that went fine. Started setting up the new ring and pinion. Pinion gear bearing would NOT go on without a lot of forceful persuasion with an aluminum drift. For those looking to do this yourself, have a bearing press/hydraulic press on hand and just do it that way. The trick of freezing the pinion and boiling the bearing does NOT work. I got it about halfway on this way before it bound up and I had to switch to good ole fashioned brute force. That would be a recurring theme of this build.
Getting the old pinion out sucks... use a puller to expedite. Dead-Blow + socket is a slow way to do it!
Finally got the pinion bearing preload set with the crush sleeve eliminator and then had to go about setting up the rear diff. I had paid to have the diff bearings put on because those would NOT even start by freezing the diff and boiling the bearings. Get everything setup with the backlash I wanted (within range, measured it at .009") and went to put the axles in, got the c-clips in, all new seals and bearings and then I checked the pattern. Pattern looked ok from what I could tell from the paint (the Ford supplied paint sucks FWIW and no one in town carries any). Checked the backlash again to be on the safe side and it measured at .016". I then spent the next 2 hours trying to get the C-Clips out which don't just fall off of the axles with a Torsen T2R. Finally found my Needle Nose pliers and got the last one out. By this time it was around 11:30 PM and I had to be at work at 7:00 AM so I started to clean stuff up (I walk to work anyway). I got everything pushed into the garage and I noticed the car was blocking the garage door... FFS. There isn't an easy way to get these cars moving without a rear axle under it so I had to put the incomplete rear axle partially back under the car to get it rolling to move it out of the way. I found out that one of my Ground Control rear shocks has stripped threads and I also found out that the battery in my car died (I was listening to the radio...).
I didn't get in bed until 12:30 AM and I have abour 4 new cuts and scrapes on my hands. THANKFULLY my hands don't smell like gear oil/friction modifier which is by and large the most awful smell in the world. Being around the differential case during this entire ordeal, for well over 12 hours gave me one hell of a headache for work today.
I'm hoping to high hell I can get this thing assembled and Ground Control can get me a set of replacement shocks before the autocross event this weekend. I'm not holding my breath though. That means I need to find a way to get my D-Specs from Omaha to where I'm at without actually driving my car... not sure how that is going to work... I might have to cancel my autocross plans this weekend if I can't get them here somehow.
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Replaced car with a Focus ST. Easier to pop kids and gear in, easier on the wallet (costs more to insure though...WTF?) Obviously not the grunt of my old car, but I am not worried when driving it in the rain, not going to go through 1600 worth of tires a year.. and shouldn't have it in the shop 2 months out of the year. All Plus's. The neighbors even like it better as it doesnt shake their walls when I fire it up in the morning. 2013, Tuxedo Black, Bilstien Shocks and Struts, Cobb springs, Swaybars, Motor mounts etc Should be a fun new adventure, something I intend to keep street-able and not turn it into another wannabe race car. Taking her down to Thunderhill in November for the long Track Track day. Appreciate everyone's support and help on the forum, time for another journey. Will be posting ads on S197 under the same username for some leftover parts, NIB watts link, wot box, wheels, TPS, Gears etc. Thanks again everyone.
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Pics of the new ride?
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8,515 Posts
copy cat
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Popped a P0135 code the other day so I decided I'd be proactive and swap out both upstream O2 sensors. Boy was that a PITA, the Kenne Bell vacuum and intercooler routing did not help in replacing the bank 2 sensor. And holy **** what do people do to connect/disconnect the bank 1 sensor? I had to get a 2' screwdriver and press on the tab in order to get it out and basically give myself 2nd degree burns on my arm from the bell housing in order to get it back in. Car is still throwing a P0135 but I'm not sure if it has to do a cold start cycle a number of times to reset it. Any other possibilities I may be looking at for culprits? Fuse, pinch spots, etc? Before anyone asks yes I did replace them with NTKs.
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161 Posts
Stock manifolds, and I haven't messed with the tune since I bought it. I have a Diablo that came with the car, but I don't know my ass from a hole in the ground yet when it comes to this platform so all I've done is used to to check the code when the CEL came on.
Doing airlift air ride system on the car, taking time on this project because of the audio stuff. Did a test fit of amp cover over tank to see if the tank is hitting anywhere , also just sit compressor on top. now instead of hiding air compressors ,I'm thinking about mounting them as shown in the picture,one on each side of the trunk and cutting out back panel to show polished air tank through plexiglass.
before test fit
compared to hiding air compressor
before test fit
compared to hiding air compressor
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7,070 Posts
Thoughts on this gear pattern?
Drive:
Coast:
FRPP says no, needs a thinner pinion shim since the drive side is at the toe and the coast side is at the heel. Weber University says no too.
However this dude at Ring and Pinion says good to go:
https://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Book/Reading-and-Adjusting-Ring-and-Pinion-Tooth-Patterns.pdf
And apparently Yukon Gear uses the same chart as the above dude and says good to go.
As much as I'd LOVE to get this centered, I lack the hydraulic press necessary to really do this work and I don't enjoy the thought of buying one either as this is probably the only use for it I have.
Drive:
Coast:
FRPP says no, needs a thinner pinion shim since the drive side is at the toe and the coast side is at the heel. Weber University says no too.
However this dude at Ring and Pinion says good to go:
https://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Book/Reading-and-Adjusting-Ring-and-Pinion-Tooth-Patterns.pdf
And apparently Yukon Gear uses the same chart as the above dude and says good to go.
As much as I'd LOVE to get this centered, I lack the hydraulic press necessary to really do this work and I don't enjoy the thought of buying one either as this is probably the only use for it I have.
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