[Fifth Horseman]

keep factory gears and run the juice instead alot cheaper and it sounds like you can manage it more on your terms which is what you want

 

[Quan Cheese]

keep factory gears and run the juice instead alot cheaper and it sounds like you can manage it more on your terms which is what you want

+1 that's what I'm doing. Problem is a lot of people fear the spray and prefer boost and boost appears to be the direction OP is leaning, even with that I'd run the factory gears for boost 3.55s are perfect for boost

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[Aristeros]

Ok. Now it makes sense. 6500rpm does not apply to the OP.

Well, if he goes supercharged his tuner will almost undoubtedly tune the car to at least 6200. No one shifts these things at 5800 with a blower.


But for specifics on RPM and MPH here you go OP. Just got on my computer where I had this bookmarked. This is a great tool for that.

PaladinMicro


^^^Just plug your tranny, tire size, and final gear in and you've got all the info right there.

 

[Fifth Horseman]

wet juice + methanol injecting has got to be the safest thing for these car, almost no risk of detonation, + its nice to not have your vehicle under boost all the time. just my 2 cents

 

[2v_Motorsports]

Well, if he goes supercharged his tuner will almost undoubtedly tune the car to at least 6200. No one shifts these things at 5800 with a blower.


But for specifics on RPM and MPH here you go OP. Just got on my computer where I had this bookmarked. This is a great tool for that.

PaladinMicro


^^^Just plug your tranny, tire size, and final gear in and you've got all the info right there.

Thats a nice program thanks, and ye I shift it at 6k no problem now, my rev lim is set at 6100 but 6k seems to be the perfect shift point.People seem to misunderstand centris, stock gears for boost on turbos and eatons but not centris, I dont want nitrous since it will need refills and for a safe setup it will cost half of the supercharger.

 

[Snorky]

well honestly theirs to much goods with the 3.73s , Im gonna order the kit from americanmuscle, with my plans on a vortech and stage 2 cams later on gears seem a must, hopefully it will take the drone away too

---------- Post added at 07:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:22 PM ----------

but is there anyone else that has/had 3.27s with a vortech >?

I am rocking full bolt ons, full exhaust, and cams. I have run 3.27 stockers, 3.73's. and 4.10's. So far my favorite have been 3.73's. Sure I love my current 4.10's but I feel like I shift gears every 2 seconds, and I almost think they hurt me in the 1/4 mile. They definitely do in the 60 ft for sure. I kind of wish I put another set of 3.73's in when i toasted the old ones.

I have an 01 with a T-3650 trans. btw

at 60 mph in 5th with 4.10's I am churning around 2,000 rpm. 80 mph I am screaming at 3,000 rpm. with normal driving I am almost shifting into 3rd by the time I leave the intersection from a red light. at 40-45 mph in 5th you'll be at like 1500 rpm. It is a bit ridiculous to be honest. I usually net about 17-18 mpg whether it be highway or town driving.

I'm sure 4.10's would be wonderful at the track with a 26-28" slick with a blower but I think 3.73's are a better way to go. You will stay in boost longer than 4.10's and get into it quicker than stock without killing your mileage.

 

[aarongt2000]

I am rocking full bolt ons, full exhaust, and cams. I have run 3.27 stockers, 3.73's. and 4.10's. So far my favorite have been 3.73's. Sure I love my current 4.10's but I feel like I shift gears every 2 seconds, and I almost think they hurt me in the 1/4 mile. They definitely do in the 60 ft for sure. I kind of wish I put another set of 3.73's in when i toasted the old ones.

I have an 01 with a T-3650 trans. btw

at 60 mph in 5th with 4.10's I am churning around 2,000 rpm. 80 mph I am screaming at 3,000 rpm. with normal driving I am almost shifting into 3rd by the time I leave the intersection from a red light. at 40-45 mph in 5th you'll be at like 1500 rpm. It is a bit ridiculous to be honest. I usually net about 17-18 mpg whether it be highway or town driving.

I'm sure 4.10's would be wonderful at the track with a 26-28" slick with a blower but I think 3.73's are a better way to go. You will stay in boost longer than 4.10's and get into it quicker than stock without killing your mileage.

+1 couldn't agree more

 

[blownstang]

Well, if he goes supercharged his tuner will almost undoubtedly tune the car to at least 6200. No one shifts these things at 5800 with a blower.


But for specifics on RPM and MPH here you go OP. Just got on my computer where I had this bookmarked. This is a great tool for that.

PaladinMicro


^^^Just plug your tranny, tire size, and final gear in and you've got all the info right there.

This is the calculator I used. Just have to remember that this isn't exact. There might be a few mph difference due to variables. Yes, the tuner should pull to 6200. I was just stating that he most likely won't be reving it to 6500rpm. Without cams peak power is usually before 6k. If he does cams then he could pull it to 6500rpm. With 4.10's I pull it to 6300-6400 only in 4th to get through the traps. All other gears I shift at 6k. According to the calculator I only need about 6150rpm to get through the trap, but there is always that slight delay from when you cross the line and when you actually take your foot off the gas.

---------- Post added at 09:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:32 PM ----------

I am rocking full bolt ons, full exhaust, and cams. I have run 3.27 stockers, 3.73's. and 4.10's. So far my favorite have been 3.73's. Sure I love my current 4.10's but I feel like I shift gears every 2 seconds, and I almost think they hurt me in the 1/4 mile. They definitely do in the 60 ft for sure. I kind of wish I put another set of 3.73's in when i toasted the old ones.

I have an 01 with a T-3650 trans. btw

at 60 mph in 5th with 4.10's I am churning around 2,000 rpm. 80 mph I am screaming at 3,000 rpm. with normal driving I am almost shifting into 3rd by the time I leave the intersection from a red light. at 40-45 mph in 5th you'll be at like 1500 rpm. It is a bit ridiculous to be honest. I usually net about 17-18 mpg whether it be highway or town driving.

I'm sure 4.10's would be wonderful at the track with a 26-28" slick with a blower but I think 3.73's are a better way to go. You will stay in boost longer than 4.10's and get into it quicker than stock without killing your mileage.

I've had this thought before too that maybe the 4.10's are hurting my 1/4 a little. Car cuts a 1.67 60' and pulls really hard on the top end (gains 27.4mph from 1/8 to 1/4), but my 1/8 is slower than others with similar setups and I think that is because I'm shifting into 4th right at the 1/8 mile marker so I'm dong 3 shifts during the 1/8 and no shift from the 1/8 to the 1/4.

I do all city low mph driving and the shifting doesn't really bother me. If I did mostly highway the higher rpms would probably bother me more. I usually shift at 2k and by 30mph I'm in 4th gear.

 

[DeathBringer]

4:10 with a 5speed 1st gear is so short your shifting right away. I had 4:10 with my 5speed for a bit before going with the t56. My t56 has a 2.66 1st gear and it was alot better with the 4.10 (wish i had gone 4.30 now) I would go with a 3.55 3.73 gear on the 3650 especially if you DD it alot. Oh, and you will need some DRs like the MT street drag radials to get any traction.

 

[Eagle2000GT]

I reference CliffyK's calculator a lot. It matches my car exactly. With T-45/3.73s at 4000 rpm on the highway I'm running 40 mph in second and 80 mph in fourth. It's handy to know the rpm that you will have for your speed when downshifting. I think 3.73s are the perfect gear for a centrifugal supercharger especially on the street. First isn't too short and the highway rpm isn't too high with the T-45 and early T-3650 transmissions.

The idea that a centri doesn't make good boost until higher rpm is really a mute point. You don't race at lower rpm. At the track with a heated set of DRs you should be able to launch at 3000-3500 without spinning too much. After that the motor never gets below 3500. I started stretching first out a little farther to 6200 but if all shifts are at 6000 rpm then from 1st-2nd rpm drop to 3550, from 2nd-3rd it drops back to 3960, and from 3rd-4th rpm drops back to 4545 rpm. At 111.4 mph my car crosses the finish line around 5600 rpm.

My torque curve is relative flat (greater than 350 ft.lbs) from 4000-5500 rpm with peak around 4500. Peak horsepower is around 5900 rpm (stock cams). If I were building a track car I suppose 3.90s might be a better gear but I only occasionally take my daily driver to the track. In my opinion 4.10s are too much gear. At 6300 rpm torque and horsepower are starting to drop off pretty fast.

I have looked at the torque curves between centri and twin-screw blowers. The low end torque advantage of the twin-screw is pretty much gone around 4000 rpm and the only time a motor drops below that is the first second shift. At the higher rpm the centri has an advantage. The one thing that I've noticed about the data that the twin-screw drivers post is that they almost all run slicks or ET Streets to get enough traction. A centri with those tires could launch above 4000 rpm. That is why centris and twin-screws with similar boost run similar times.

 

[Snorky]

"lazy" shifting or just cruisin is fine, but do you really wanna set up your car for that specifically? i wouldn't think so. set it up for your drag or whatever you do, and then find the most convenient way to drive in traffic off that.

i've heard many people talking about never exceeding 2500, rpm. how do people do that?? seriously, that's ridiculous. it doesn't matter what gear you have in that case, you'll be shift every 2 seconds anyway, or accelerating so damn slow that gears and acceleration obviously aren't that important. may as well get an auto. u got a 5 speed, use it. i mean do you not like the noise?

---------- Post added at 02:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:50 AM ----------



1st is so low that you start in 2nd, and now you want it lower? for what, towing something?

I shift at 2500 with my 4.10's, it feels like I'm driving a tractor, shift... shift... shift... shift... shift...

 

[tnole23]

4:10 with a 5speed 1st gear is so short your shifting right away. I had 4:10 with my 5speed for a bit before going with the t56. My t56 has a 2.66 1st gear and it was alot better with the 4.10 (wish i had gone 4.30 now) I would go with a 3.55 3.73 gear on the 3650 especially if you DD it alot. Oh, and you will need some DRs like the MT street drag radials to get any traction.

man, that's low. just get new gears. right now you have what would be 3.22's in 5 speed. 4.56's would put you at a 3.6 equivalent, that's a pretty nice spot.

---------- Post added at 08:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:02 PM ----------

keep factory gears and run the juice instead alot cheaper and it sounds like you can manage it more on your terms which is what you want

for drag that's fine. but that's no fun on the street. boost is always available. no arm, open, purge, fill, crap. fun factor with boost is no comparison with spray, for street driving.

---------- Post added at 08:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:04 PM ----------

wet juice + methanol injecting has got to be the safest thing for these car, almost no risk of detonation, + its nice to not have your vehicle under boost all the time. just my 2 cents

it's only boosting when you make it, not all the time.

---------- Post added at 08:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:06 PM ----------

+1 that's what I'm doing. Problem is a lot of people fear the spray and prefer boost and boost appears to be the direction OP is leaning, even with that I'd run the factory gears for boost 3.55s are perfect for boost

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3.55s are very nice, but OP has an 01, which comes with a 3.27 stock. unless bullitts are different, i'm not familiar with the differences.

 

[Bullitt 736]

^^^ Bullitts are indeed 3.27.

I drive my green one daily with 4.10's. When I drive the stock blue one it's such a dog.


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