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Check engine light help. codes 172 176 332

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6.4K views 3 replies 2 participants last post by  eli_harper13  
#1 ·
So my car has been slow to rev down and after driving for a mile or so the check engine light comes on. I thought the revving problem was from a vac leak but after further inspection, it appears my throttle isnt completely closing, and sticking slightly open before it closes. I assume that either my throttle body is dirty or my TPS is sticking. The codes my engine is throwing (172, 176) both O2 sensors indicate that the system is lean. Could that be because my engine is slow to rev down? Has anyone else experienced this problem? It is also throwing 332 - EGR valve opening not detected. Does this mean my EGR valve is bad? Any help would be appreciated, thank you!
 
#3 · (Edited)
Thats the canister purge valve. One end runs to the charcoal canister and the other runs to the upper intake. One end appears to be open. It should be connected to the canister or the intake. Its for emissions and mileage. In short, there is a vapor valve on top of the fuel tank. A line runs from that to the charcoal canister which collects fumes from the tank. There is another line from the canister to the purge valve and a line from that to the intake. Depending on conditions the computer opens the purge valve so those fumes i mentioned can be sent to the engine to be reburned, basically. The engine will be just fine without any of that stuff, but i dont know how fussy those SN95s are when it comes to that stuff. That shouldnt affect the idle tho as far as i know.

Code 332 - Check for any broken vac lines. Take your EGR off and clean it out real good as the nipple may be getting hung up on some carbon (work it as you clean), then clear the computer and take it for a drive to see if it helped any. Like a Fox, an EGR valve opening not detected could be from a bad vac line, a bad EGR position sensor, or the EGR itself is sticking or the diaghragm is bad. Dont get any chemicals on the diaphragm tho or you can ruin it. The EGR can screw with your idle if its sticking and they do get pretty dirty over time. Same with an IAC valve.

For your o2 sensor codes, have you checked the fuel pressure? When was the last tuneup?

When you work the TB manually, do you feel any sticking or is it nice and smooth? If it feels sticky im sure it needs some cleaning. Should be able to find TB cleaner in most auto parts stores. Spray some of that onto the shaft and work it a bit. Dont know if that will help but its worth a few shots.

Im not quite sure about the slow idle. My 93 does that and i havent figured it out yet. Still working on it.
 
#4 ·
Thanks alot for the info. I know alot of the idel and rev are from my timing. I went to a mechanic friend with a timing light and he set the car back to factor 10 but the car ran like crap. I ended up setting the timing by ear and driving it and turning the distributor a little at a time. He thinks it may have an after market cam but im really not sure what all has been done. I know for a fact that the engine has been into before but not sure what all was done. I know for certain that one of my plugs was bad so i replaced all of them with iridium plugs and 9mm wires. Not missing at all anymore! But timing seems high now and very slow to rev down. I cleared the codes then drove the car till the engine light came back on, it was only 332, no more O2 sensors. I wanted to drive it more just to be sure so im gonna run the codes again tomorrow to see if its still just 332 and also clean the EGR. My throttle body does seem to stick just a bit, im talking like millimeters right before it closes, i could barely see it. But i did notice that it doesnt take much to make it rev some. So i will try cleaning it, could it need a new TPS? It has a brand new IAC valve.And as far as vac lines go, from what i can see they all seem to be in good shape, but i know sometimes that is like finding a needle in a haystack.