None of those relate to your coolant being low but your evap system has a leak somewhere. I had my evap purge canister go bad on me in my 00 gt which triggered the same code but it could be a few different things including a leaking gas cap so Id check into that first. Now the low coolant light being triggered probably isnt because the sensor is bad but it could be because youre losing coolant somewhere. Check around your intake manifold and your heater core for pinhole leaks or telltale signs of coolant. Also check your coolant level on level ground to see if it is actually low and report back.

 

Edit: Also do you have a v6 or gt? Im on mobile so I cant read sigs. If it is a gt then the pi intake is known to leak coolant so Id check the spark plug wells. But if its a v6 like in your username then Id check all around your intake gaskets just to be thorough.

By the way mobile sucks I cant edit posts...

 

I have a Gt. I need to change my name lol But thanks, I'll look into it! I can't find coolant anywhere that it would be leaking but I'm gonna check again and check my levels Edit: Ok what is the eval purge canister? I know I have a black canister on the passenger side which gets a lot of condensation on it when I run the A/C or heat. Is that it? I always forget the name of that thing.

My previous PI intake with the plastic crossover cracked in 2 places and leaked coolant into my #5 runner and into the block valley. My coolant kept running low after a few weeks of driving and I couldn't figure out why until the gauge was pegged hot one morning and I peeked around the block with a flashlight. Like s197 said, this is a common problem on the 2v... but AFAIK, not on the v6.

It's weird because I can't find a leak anywhere though? Could it be a very small one? edit: Ok I did a quick inspection of my intake and couldn't find any cracks or signs of coolant in the block valley.

 

My previous PI intake with the plastic crossover cracked in 2 places and leaked coolant into my #5 runner and into the block valley. My coolant kept running low after a few weeks of driving and I couldn't figure out why until the gauge was pegged hot one morning and I peeked around the block with a flashlight. Like s197 said, this is a common problem on the 2v... but AFAIK, not on the v6.

 

Also depends on the year. 99-00 had plastic crossovers. I think mine cracked initially between the crossover and the #5 runner because I was losing coolant for months and couldn't figure out why. Only later did it start leaking in the valley. Is the coolant actually low? Or does the sensor just say that it is?

 

Well it's a 99'. Learned the hard way these first two years were plagued with more problems it seems. And the sensor just came on. I drove to auto zone just in case it threw a code relating to it. After I turned my car off and turned it back on it went away. I've been driving all day with it not coming back on. When it did this before it did it and came on every few weeks. When i replaced the sensor it has been gone until now......

 

Do you smell coolant with your heater on? Do you have water getting in on the drivers side floor I think it is?

 

Heater core is on the passenger side. Lines protrude from the fire wall just behind the cylinder head. Replacing one is involved enough that I wouldn't want to do it again.

 

I for sure don't have the skills to replace a heater core. And no I don't smell any coolant with the heat on, and no water either

 

I'm a bit confused. Are you talking about coolant temperature or the low coolant light. If you are talking about the low coolant light have you actually checked the coolant level? Is it low?

My car's low coolant light cycles on and off. There is absolutely nothing wrong. The sensor is bad. I just haven't gotten around to changing it.

P.S. The low coolant sensor and the water temperature sensor are two different sensors.

 

Op just replaced his but that doesnt mean he didnt get a lemon but yea check your coolant level to rule that out.

Also nice to see you again eagle! Long time no see. I honestly didnt think you were coming back.

 

Low coolant light. It's the farthest light to the right on the dash. And I could have gotten a bad sensor I'm not sure. It has not come back on since last week so idk. If it keeps coming back on, I might replace the coolant temp. sensor one more time to make sure it wasn't a dud. And I am not low on coolant

 

My 99 cobra always does that it will come on some days and some days its off. I had a leak fixed it and it went away for a little bit. My float in the tank is broken through so I think sometimes it gets stuck

 

It came on today for a bit then went away after being shut off for a bit before I went to wash my car. I'm gonna buy a sensor and call it a day. Seems to be a common issue from what I've read. I'm not losing coolant, have zero leaks anywhere, and my temp is fine so until I get a leak or my temp changes I guess I'll deal with it.

But question, if I unplug the sensor this will make my car not tell me when my car overheats if it did correct? I don't wanna unplug it to get rid of the light but then not know if my car overheated if something broke ya know?

 

my coolant light is on and stays on most off the time. occasionally it will be off. Its been this way for about a year now and my coolant level has remained the same. I Thought the coolant level sensor cant be replaced without replacing the entire reservoir? I think the little floater to see the level is just bad it gets stuck and sinks. I've considered just removing the bulb in my car since i check the coolant levels regularly. i have a 2000 GT

 

No it can be taken out very easily. Just unplug the connector and use a wrench. Can't remember the size. Just make sure your car is dead cold before taking it off. I waited a few hours the first time and thought it would be cooled down enough but it wasn't. After incorrectly installing it because I torqued it down too tight, O'reiley's replaced it luckily for me, and I waited about double the hours to try again and it still was shooting out hot coolant about half way through the uninstall so I suggest just doing it after cooling off overnight and remember it only goes about 3/4 into the reservoir if that.

edit: I hope we are talking about the same sensor. I noticed you said level. I'm talking about the temperature sensor

 

I thought the temperature sensor has nothing to do with the coolant level light.

 

I'm pretty sure if the sensor is bad it could throw the light on the dash to let you know? Maybe someone else could chime in and know. If not it would save me 25 bucks from buying a new one :lol and it helps me look in the right places for next time

 

The coolant light in the dash is a dummy-light for coolant level. On 99/00 the coolant level sensor is part of the reservoir. 01+ has a separate coolant level sensor. On both, you can leave the coolant level sensor unplugged to get rid of the dummy-light.

Sometimes the float gets stuck in the reservoir triggering the dummy-light.

Coolant temperature sensor has nothing to do with the dummy-light.

 

That's what I thought my car manual says it's the coolant level light. I don't think unplugging it solves that problem I've had it come
On before when unplugged

 

Seems I've been looking in the wrong spot for my problem then, thanks that helps a lot! Definitely not gonna replace the entire reservoir for a light, especially when I don't even have a leak.

 

Alright so last night my car had smoke coming from the engine. So I pull into my house and there was a little bit of coolant coming from my radiator cap. Not much, just a little. There was no pressure hardly sealing it. So I replaced the cap last night and no more coolant has come out. Anyways I notice below my coolant temp sensor on the aluminum piece (not sure what its called, the crossover??), below the intake that there is minor coolant seeping down into the V of my engine. Man this is depressing. Is my intake cracked??? I can't find a leak on the top of in the intake, it looks like it's under it close to the COPS

 

Pull the intake to verify where its coming from, its too hard to spot leaks under the intake when its still on. At this point you might as well buy a new intake but verify that its not a head gasket first.

 

Honestly I'm so busy with school and life I barely have time to do that. I've also never pulled anything like this. Anything specific? I wanna do the work myself instead of pay a shop but the biggest job Ive done is my inner and outer tie rod ends, is this close enough to where I can do it? I only have basic hand tools and wrenches man..... and that's pushing it considering half my tools are junk anyways. I drive this thing 7 days a week multiple times a day for school. Ugh constant repairs are making me want to sell this thing honestly. Sorry for the crappy iPhone pics, hopefully you can view those. I forgot how to make them show up in my post automatically

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http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd493/01stangV6/Mobile Uploads/image_zpstxc9kwf7.jpg

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http://s1222.photobucket.com/user/0...t.com/user/01stangV6/media/Mobile Uploads/image_zpsuxvnzjd9.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

 

Ive taken the intake manifold off of my 3v and its not that involved but you best have a torque wrench and follow the bolt tightening sequence. It shouldnt be that involved, just take off the fuel railts, intake plenum, cop's and any other vacuum and coolant lines on the intake. Also check all the coolant lines to make sure none are pinched causing excess pressure buildup. Also I cant follow those links but it might just be because Im on autoguide...

 

Oh ok it looks like the crossover is leaking, thats a common problem with 2vs just go on craigslist and find a used one if you cant afford a new one. Also nice thin blue line bracelet, you want to be LEO? Im waiting to go to the academy myself.

 

Yeah I think I confirmed it's the intake. Dang... I can afford a new one luckily. I'm torn between just replacing it with a stock FRRP one for a few hundred or spend a little more and get an upgraded one with the aluminum crossover. And yeah bro I am! I'm finishing up my final semester at my community college now and the academy in the spring will complete my degree. Already doing the testing to get in! LEO brothers haha

Something must have gotten into the connector and bridged it, causing the light to come on.

Note that most, if not all, aftermarket coolant reservoirs do not have a level sensor in them. As such, leaving them unplugged will keep that sensor level light off in the dash.

Here are a couple of sources:

See step 9.

See post #9 and #10

Google Search Results

To OP: Sorry to hear of your troubles. Nevertheless, replacing the intake manifold is not difficult at all. I watched a few videos on YouTube to get an idea of the process and followed these step-by-step instructions here: LINK

I had my laptop propped up close to my work area, and just took my time. Keep your chin up and good luck!

Thanks man I'm just trying to be positive is all... One thing after the next

 

I think they only make the upgraded manifolds so you should be set. I was about to go to the academy in january but then I had a tonic clonic seizure on july 11th so Ive been set back a little while now. Good luck with the academy bro!

 

You're right I just checked that! Should be able to spend 250 bucks after the gaskets and all and install it. And man that sucks, do you have epilepsy? I've only done my psych test and am awaiting the results so hopefully I passed. It's the only hurdle to get it, the rest is just like physicals and shot records, etc.. since I'm a student going through their program I get guaranteed acceptance after all my testing

 

Technically yes because epilepsy has such a vague definition. Thats awesome man, what program are you in at your college?