i had the same problem, hope this helpes

Pioneer Avic-D3 Installation Write-Up - Mustang Forums at StangNet

 

No we used that. All wires hooked up the same. We can't get the factory amp to turn on. Even the door subs. We actually used that install guide. The adapter has no blue and white wire. I want to find the factory amp remote wire and run the remote right to it

 

Where did you get the harness? Sounds like you may have the wrong one or someone forgot to put in a couple of wires and Q.A. missed it. Did it come with one big rectangle connector and one smaller square connector? Can you take a picture of the small square connector?

 

small square has blue n white wires.....larger square has no blue white....it also has brown wires that dopnt connect to nething.

Picture isnt possible at the moment.

 

It's possible I checked my plug for my pioneer. Arkies
is missing some and has like 7 wires I don't have. And mine works perfect however mine is hookedto all aftermarket amps. Either way it should be the same adapter right?

 

Ok... So are you trying to fire up a factory amp or aftermakret amp? If you are firing up a aftermarket amp with that signal wire you need to take the voltage regulator off it if you followed the directions posted. Your aftermarket amp likley has a 12 volt remote. Whereas Fords is 5v, which is the reasoning behind the voltage regulator.

 

Are you with him? I R confused. LoL... But yeah. Then the kit came with the right connectors/wires, if this is the case. Shaker 1000 or Shaker 500?

 

Factory Amp. Shaker 500.

 

No the. D3 in my car worked fine connected to my jl amps. It's having a prob with arkies fctory amps and yes me and arkie aare sitting next to each other drinking beer and bieng confused

 

We started drinking after the problem...

 

That usually is the case . So it doesn't have the blue remote turn on wire at all? Weird.

 

For signal to the Shaker 1000 trunk amps, you need the following hookups to the head-unit wiring harness. All the colors match. It should be 4 wires total, and 3 of them tap into the head unit "J4" connector (Also known as "Audio Unit C290B") outputs (See previous post). We are using pins 5,6,and 8 on the only 8 pin connector coming off the head-unit.

Pin 5 is Rear Sub (+) it is PK/OG
Pin 6 is Rear Sub (-) it is OG/RD
Pin 8 is Rear Sub turn on and clipping feedback circuit - it is GY/BK


The head unit ground is in connector "C290d" also known as "J1" and is in the only 24 pin connector harness. The wire is:

Pin 13 Audio Unit Ground BK/OG

So that is it - only 4 wires off the head-unit harness need to be run to the trunk.

Rear Sub connections to match the above wires you have run:

Pin 1 Subwoofer Turn-ON / Clip from head unit: GY/BK

Pin 2 Subwoofer Ground: BK/OG
Pin 5 on connectors C4158A and C4160A: (+) Power VT/LB
Pin 5 on connectors C4157A and C4159A: (+) Power PK/YE

Pin 7 on connectors C4157a, C4158a, C4159a, and C4160a: (+) Audio input from matching head-unit wire: PK/LG

Pin 8 on connectors C4157a, C4158a, C4159a, and C4160a: (-) Audio input from matching head-unit wire: OG/RD

__________________________________________

TRANSLATION: GREY / BLACK WIRE is your turn-on (Pin 8 on the J4 connector)

 

Also, you may get a pop when you add the pioneer - the factory amps use a 5 volt turn-on...you are going to give it 12...so you will need a voltage regulator from Radio Shack:


A 5 Volt Fixed Voltage Regulator (Radio Shack #276-1770) did the trick. You carefully solder and heat shrink three wires onto the little beastie - there is a diagram on the back of the package. You have +12volt power and ground, and the third pin is 5 volt output. Solder and heat-shrink all connections, but the lowdown is the regulator's ground hooks up to the head unit's black ground wire and then you solder the Blue/White (or blue on some stereos) amp/accessory turn on wire that comes out of the headunit onto the regulator's 12V input, then solder the 5V output wire to your aftermarket adapter amp turn on wires (blue/white).

I also discovered that the Metra adapter harness with RCA plugs combines the shaker 1000 sub amp turn on wire and the front door woofer turn on wire. I thought I was going to need two regulators (one for front amps and one for sub trunk amps) but one did the trick.

 

Yes we have the 5v in already all wires match but nowhere to run the blue and white to. So grey black wil turn on the 5x7 s in the door. This is a shaker 500. Also when we plug the shaker head unit without the door sub plug, only the big one, the door speakers work. The door subs sent the prob. It's the 5x7's

 

I don;t fully understand that post...but see if you can run the blue/white turn on to the gray/black on the door subwoofer amps - via a Radio Shack 5 volt regulator if needed to avoid the pop.

Have you looked to see if the door shaker sub amps have a gray / black wire on them? If they do, that is your turn-on.

 

When you disconnect the door sub plug from the back of the shaker 500 the 5x7's still work so the amp turn on wire has to be on the larger of the plugs right? Cause the amp for the 5x7's is still on. We already have the 5 v radio shack piece installed. I think arkie is just gonna go to a stereo shop. I havnt had that head unit hooked to a factory amp in over a year so it's posible that the head unit may only be pusing sound through the RCA's now and in order to use the head unit he may have to have an aftermarket 4 channel cause it works in my car

 

I see what you are saying.

The 5x7's are on because they are powered by the head unit. The door subs are power by the shaker amps.

Let me see if I can figure out which pin / wire on the bigger plugs might be a turn-on for the door shaker subs...I'll get back to you in a few. Searching...

 

OK, try pin #4 on the 8 pin small connector (C290B / J4 connector in above diagram).

That wire should be DG/VT which I take to mean dark green / violet.

It is described as "Audio unit front subwoofers enable / clip" in the Ford troubleshooting manual, which in layman's terms is the turn-on wire. It is "AUX AUD ENABLE" on the above diagram I posted.

Let me know if that is it.

 

 

I wrote in all the wire colors for anyone doing a future search. :yes

 

****, now I almost don't want to bring it to a stereo shop to have done....lol

 

So we do have a missing wire in the harness

 

No DG/VT wire on the "J4" plug? (Pin #4?)

 

Did you get this resolved? Don't leave me hanging.