Welcome to MM

 

Lets see some pics for the modified front bumper? I think someone else recently was talking about insulation around his shifter. I think it came with his shifter though. I still have the stock cooling fan but I know there is a slim 2-fan set up out there. And yes, let your motor warm up before driving off, especially with any kind of forced induction. I never drive until I see my temp gauge move. Sometimes that's 30 seconds, sometimes that can be 3-4 minutes.

 

Thanks for that bit of info. I will get some pics up hopefully later today or maybe tomorrow - it's currently at the Dr. getting the AC fixed.

I don't know a whole lot about the shifter on this - I know it is aftermarket, but utilizing the same knob. Once I get it back I will dig into that a bit more. I was thinking about just getting a heat shield panel to stick up there around the shifter and e-brake to see if I can block most of it out.

Are you running a turbo setup on yours? I was thinking about it more last night and wondering if maybe the fan that was installed on it is a pusher not a puller and was just installed on the back side - that would explain a lot/wouldn't totally surprise me.

Thanks for the tip on warming up...kind of embarrassing when you hit the gas to go and all you do is chug :facepalm: .

 

Pull up the shifter boot and make sure the rubber shifter gasket is stalled correctly, is not it'll let heat into the center console

 

UPDATE: AC is now fixed with no other issues (the compressor line was rubbing against the frame when the lines were moved for the turbo install). Apparently my thought that I had last night was correct - the fan was pushing instead of pulling...hopefully no more cooling issues. One issue that does remain, my turbocharger is leaking oil. The mechanic that I had working on the other issues said that I would need to replace the turbo unit itself.

Question - anyone know of another turbo that will match up with the boost bros system?

---------- Post added at 02:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:17 PM ----------



Thanks - I will check that out.

 

There will be heat from the shifter area, but it shouldnt be super hot just noticably hotter than other areas.

 

If the turbo is leaking, it is more than likely a seal. you could always have it rebuilt.

 

Thanks - I will look into this as an option. Hopefully a less expensive option.

---------- Post added at 09:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:53 AM ----------

If you have to have it rebuilt consider getting the wheel upgraded to a billet wheel (the increase in spooling speed has to be felt to be believed) as for replacements, any reputable company will do as long as your outlet, inlet are sized correctly.

Make sure you don't go to small or it will run out of juice quickly and avoid anything oversized- otherwise it will take too long to spool. Avoid Comp Turbo, great product but their customer service sucks diseased moose wang.

If you have a tuner, talk to him or her and get their feedback. Some tuners are more familiar with certain brands. Have fun, boost is addictive

Thanks for the tips. If I end up replacing, I think I read on a forum or someplace that a Turbonetics matches up well with this system. Down side, is they run around $800. Not that I mind putting $ into this thing if it is going to make it run better, just wasn't planning to do it all at once. So, hoping a rebuild is possible.

 

If you have to have it rebuilt consider getting the wheel upgraded to a billet wheel (the increase in spooling speed has to be felt to be believed) as for replacements, any reputable company will do as long as your outlet, inlet are sized correctly.

Make sure you don't go to small or it will run out of juice quickly and avoid anything oversized- otherwise it will take too long to spool. Avoid Comp Turbo, great product but their customer service sucks diseased moose wang.

If you have a tuner, talk to him or her and get their feedback. Some tuners are more familiar with certain brands. Have fun, boost is addictive

 

I am looking into rebuilding my turbo (for now until I have the $$ to completely replace the system). Looks like a fairly straight forward DIY and it also looks like rebuild kits on eBay go for $50-$75. Question for anyone that might know - which rebuild kit should I be looki g at? Someone else in a different thread mentioned that the internals looked to be knockoff of Garrett - I can get a Garrett rebuild kit for $60. It says it works with T3/T4/T67 and a host of others. From what I could find online, the Boost Brothers system appears to be T67, but I don't know for sure. Anybody know?

 

I have a Turbonetics turbo if it ever needs to be removed I will get a Liquid cooled turbo for sure. I worry about the added stress to the oil

Yeah...I think my comment about that was a bit premature. After doing some more research I agree with you and will do the same. Currently though, I am looking for a temporary band-aid to at least get this to quit burning oil for a couple months until its time to put it up for the winter and then look into really fixing things right.

 

I don't know why you still have cats... on a turbo.

 

This is one of the elements I will be looking at changing during 'Mod Season' (aka winter). I bought this one about a month ago, so it is still pretty new in my hands. It has a magna flow system on it right now and I am not a big fan of it - it's too damn quiet. While I am not looking forward to the winter, I am looking forward to making some significant updates.

 

I had excessive heat coming from the ebrake boot area also. I removed the center console and discovered the ebrake mount tore a small rip into the panel; i could see through it. I hamered it back down, installed large washers on the top and bottom of the mounting plate and sealed it some some good ol jb weld.

 

Quick update: I was looking around some more and found one issue...maybe someone can tell me if this could be the cause for the oil problem I am having - Anytime I get on the gas I am embarrassed by the plume of blue smoke I leave behind me...I discovered there is a bolt missing on one of the brackets that holds the cover on the compressor housing just before the mid section. Could this be my problem?

 

That won't put oil into your exhaust.

Is Boost Brothers still in business? See if you can buy a CHRA (center housing & rotation assembly) for it. If you can get one it'll be more than a rebuild kit but there's no rebuilding. It comes all assembled/balanced and you just change your compressor/exhaust housings over to it.

I just ordered a CHRA for my On3 that I blew the seals in because of my high volume oil pump. :facepalm:

 

Boost Brothers is no longer around - should have done more research before getting invested in this.

 

If that bolt is allowing oil into your intake tract then sure, it can cause excessive smoke from your exhaust but I doubt that that is the case if it is just a cover bolt. The blue smoke is bothering me a bit. Do you run the stock PCV system, or are you venting to the atmosphere?

 

Might consider running an oil restrictor in the turbo feed line...

 

My thoughts on the turbo: If you're seeing blue smoke, it is likely from the turbo. Turbonetics turbos use a 270 degree thrust bearing on their standard turbos. You used to have to pay for a 360 degree thrust bearing as an upgrade. Maybe they've changed, maybe they're still using the 270 degree ones. Either way, the thrust bearing can go out, and they do go out frequently ( I went through three Turnonetics turbos before I switched and swore never again). When they do, they have excessive radial shaft play, causing the shaft to eventually ride on the shaft seal. This wears them out in no time and you're left with oil seeping into the turbine housing and burning off. This causes a blue smoke, and it's thick. It is most common on startup, when oil pressure is high. Also, just after initial boost sets in, it's still happening the while rpm range but the movement of the car hides it.

Also, boss is correct. A PVC system takes a beating of a forced induction system, and if your pcv valve has failed you're building pressure in the crankcase. Look at your PCV system for proper functionality. To rule out or confirm your turbo problem, Pull your downpipe off, look inside the turbine housing where the turbine wheel is and check for oil residue. That's where I would start. If you want, pull the turbo, check the shaft play and also check the inlet of the turbine housing for oil residue. Also, check the inlet for oil too.
Now that I've typed that out... I would pull the whole turbo off and inspect it thoroughly. If the shaft wiggles excessively, it's got a bad thrust bearing. Some shaft play is ok, because the oil pressure will tighten up the tolerances and keep it from moving as much but excessive play will be easy to see.
Best of luck.

-Josh

 

Turbonetics sells the chra assemblies separate, but they are expensive. Brothers was just a vendor that used Turbonetics turbos in their kits.

Turbonetics also offers a rebuild service last I checked.

Seriously though, buy a Garret turbo or IHI or anything equivalent with the same flange that will bolt up. I used to run precision turbos too, great products and good prices.

Do you know what style the manifold to turbo flange is? I just checked out turbocharged.com and it is the SAME website I used years ago when I had their crap turbos. The catalog shows the same T3-flanged turbos. So im going out on a limb and guessing that's your turbo config. Some sort of T3-flanged variant (T3/T04E/etc).
THIS IS GOOD NEWS> so don't worry. Do like I was saying and pull the turbo off and check it out. It'll give you an idea. Post pics and video for us to see and that can help.

Lastly, as mention a few posts above, a restricter orifice inline between your oil pressure source and the oil inlet on your turbo can slow down the flow of oil, reducing the oil pressure. If your seals aren't bad, they may just be getting oil pushed past them from over-pressurization.


Don't get discouraged. You can fix this relatively easy. There are a lot of resources available to you, and were here to help.

Edit - that link I put up automatically changed itself to turbocharged.com. I actually posted turbonetics.com, and it forwarded to the link for the new name, same site still though

 

I very much appreciate all the feedback! I have been busy the past few days with a promotion at work and doing some planning for my wedding in October :crazy so haven't been able to keep up here.

I haven't pulled the turbo 'yet' - I have been a little hesitant to do that because it is drivable as it is, and I would love to be able to diagnose this prior to yanking it so I am ready to make the fix, but maybe that is hoping for too much. I did post a couple of pics - one of the missing bolt. One showing a whole lot of build-up around the oil outlet. And, just an overview of the setup. I am a bit embarrassed with the condition currently - I haven't had a chance to clean things up under there since I purchased it and got it home, so please disregard the rigged wiring job for the fan (that was a field wire job) and things like the 'custom mount' for the PS res (really? Someone thought a zip tie would be a good idea? :bash: ).

I will try to get some more shots tomorrow to get up there.

As for the PCV, honestly, i'm not really sure how it is being run right now - not that familiar with what the stock looks like in comparison to what I have going on.