i know that 99 on manual transmission 4v's all had forged (kellog i think) cranks. I'm not sure sure about other 4v's though.

 

Thanks I will look into that. I geuss the biggest thing I'm looking for is a general rule of thumb on hp rating on a stock forged crank I can't seem to find it. Cast cranks generally give up past 600 hp from what I've read. So if I get a Kellogg crank it will be good to???? Or do I just need to get a billet crank and be done with it? Billet cranks seem to be stupid expensive

 

How much power do you wanna make?

 

the stock ford forged cranks will handle way more then what you will probably ever throw at it. There are guys over on SVTP pushing high numbers with their stock forged crank. The benefit about the ford forged cranks is that they are by far cheaper then the aftermarket ones. You can find them easily over on SVTP for cheap. There is no reason to go billet unless you plan on putting a rediculous amount of power down and then if you are going that route you may want to go ahead and upgrade to billet rods as well.

---------- Post added at 08:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:32 AM ----------

and the stock cranks are kellogs

 

he's looking for 1200. which seems to be the limit of the kellog cranks.

OP do you realize the cost involved in breaking into the 1000's and you an probably double that price to get past 1200.

 

Damn!!! 1200hp on a rwd street car or drag car? What kinda cars you running into on the streets in Wolf Springs?

 

Exactly what I was thinking. We have some fast cars here in Huntsville, but can't think of many on the street making 1k hp.

 

Thank y'all for all the replies I will look into all these thing. The pistons I have looked at so far are the MMR M2500R piston and another set of manley piston that are capable of 1500hp. The reason for the question about the crank was most billet cranks start at 3k if a stock Kellogg crank can be had for little money I could have it shot peen lighten and every other trick in the book and prolly still come in under a grand. I can build headers I can set up 4 links although I will prolly ask a tone of questions when I get there. This won't happen over night. I'm trying to make a build list so I can search compare and buy parts at the best deal this car has prolly drove 6 miles in 2014. I don't have to have it done so I can wait till I get the right parts. I don't want skimp on quality but I don't want to just blow money just to get shiny stuff when a regular one will work just as good.

---------- Post added at 03:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:08 PM ----------

aueagle1 they still race a fruit stand or on 565 on sat nights? I get my hair cut in Madison one day we meet up.

 

seriously, what are you going to do with 1200 hp on the street or is this a race build ?

 

Enjoy it haha, it will be raced just not seriously. I would love to go on power tour and it will not be set on kill all the time and it will prolly be what 900 something to the wheels due to parasitic loss. I really like the challenge of trying to build something like that.

 

Look into custom pistons. There are a lot of mixed reviews regarding MMR.

I would contact Wiseco Manley Diamond directly

 

Diamond was another I looked at and there is talk of wiesco make a mod motor piston for boost also

 

There is prolly 5 or 6 in Huntsville an ls nova turbos, a green or blue chevelle on 24s bbc sprayed, a Vette pro charged , a turbo ls s10 and a couple of foxes rumored to between 1k and 1500 no idea on thier setups though. 1000hp is more a habitable than it was 10 years ago. I'm just looking for advice on how to make a semi reliable 1200 hp through a mod motor. I got 4.8ls that I know to get to my number goal on but I like keep it in the family of motors that came in it

 

What power adder are you planning on using.

The stock Cobra crank is fine if you will be using turbos.

But if you will be driving a blower off of it that is where the stock crank can be a failure point. The stock 03 Cobra crank has an undercut on the snout where it should be solid and even have a radius. The snout has been known to break off, destroying the engine. Generally when you are running a bigger crank pulley and a huge blower. If running the stock pulley support with bearing none have failed.
So keep that in mind when making your decision.

There is a "bandaid" fix to help save the snout. Have the hole in the end of the crank drilled so it goes almost all the way back to the first bearing journal and run an ARP stud instead of a bolt. That will put the clamping force into compression instead of tension. And possibly save a snout that is borderline.

Here is a discussion about the crank fixes from Modfords. It includes the engineering drawings and a discussion about billet cranks too.

Oops. Since this is my first post I can't include a link. I will make another post directly below this on with the link.

---------- Post added at 11:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:25 AM ----------

Here is the link to the crank shaft stud and snout problems and fixes.

Stock lower pulley cage with crank anchor stud mod....

 

What power adder are you planning on using.



The stock Cobra crank is fine if you will be using turbos.



But if you will be driving a blower off of it that is where the stock crank can be a failure point. The stock 03 Cobra crank has an undercut on the snout where it should be solid and even have a radius. The snout has been known to break off, destroying the engine. Generally when you are running a bigger crank pulley and a huge blower. If running the stock pulley support with bearing none have failed.

So keep that in mind when making your decision.



There is a "bandaid" fix to help save the snout. Have the hole in the end of the crank drilled so it goes almost all the way back to the first bearing journal and run an ARP stud instead of a bolt. That will put the clamping force into compression instead of tension. And possibly save a snout that is borderline.



Here is a discussion about the crank fixes from Modfords. It includes the engineering drawings and a discussion about billet cranks too.



Oops. Since this is my first post I can't include a link. I will make another post directly below this on with the link.

---------- Post added at 11:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:25 AM ----------

Here is the link to the crank shaft stud and snout problems and fixes.



Stock lower pulley cage with crank anchor stud mod....

Good info. Never knew that or even came across it doing the research on my build.



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