[pear0119]

Well I decided to tackle the install for my JBA shorty headers today. Well everything went well but none of the H-pipe bolts came off without heat. But I only able to get as far as taking everything off. Tomorrow is put everything back on day.

I was able to remove both manifolds without raising the engine but was quick to realize that the JBA headers will not go in without taking the motor mounts off. Where is the best place to raise the engine so that I can get them motor mounts off? Also, what are the torque specs on the motor mounts?

 

[07 Boss]

A block of wood underneath the oil pan works fine for jacking the motor up.
As far as torque specs, i don't know. I didn't even try and get my torque wrench in there. I just cranked 'em down like a German, Goodentight.

 

[usafimj]

I used a phone book under the oil pan right in front of the oil drain valley. When I installed my LT's I just removed the top center motor mount nut, motor mount bracket, and 4 bolts that connect it to the block. That made plenty of room

 

[pear0119]

Yeah there seems to be plenty of room once I get them mounts off. Hopefully everything goes back together smoothly tomorrow. I think I'm gonna use a 2x6 under the oil pan and prey that the floor jack won't get in my way.

 

[usafimj]

Your gonna have to jack the car up and put the front up on jack stands. Don't forget to loosen up the top motor mount nut on the opposite side that your working on. I put the jack going front to back with the pump handle facing the front of the car.

 

[bamagt]

I used a little bottle jack and wood under the front of the oil pan where it bolts to the block just behind the crank pulley. Most of all the work you need to do is from the rear, and I found trying to jack the back of the engine, the jack was in the way. I used the German torque on the mounts as well.

 

[UrbanRedneck]

I would just use a floor jack and a block of wood like others said. I had the jack with the handle facing foward and it wasn't in my way.

IIRC, the torque spec for the motor mounts was somewhere in the 40s, but with my longtubes the only way to tighten the driers side mount nut was with a crows foot and a 36 inch extension, which would throw the spec way off. I would just tighten them nice and tight, just keeping in mind that they are going into aluminum.

 

[beefmobile]

im not sure if this is what everyone is talking about, but lets say i was installing the drivers side header, i completely removed that side's motor mount; then i loosened the nut on the other side to like the very last thread. that way, the motor would go straight up about 4 inches then when it caught the nut on the other side, it would start tilting toward the passengers side that had the mostly-loosened mount, making a huge hole to put in the header. this is the easiest way i found to install my LT's.

 

[usafimj]

+1 beef. Thats how I did mine

 

[bamagt]

hey pear, next time try some "corrosion-x" on the stuck hardware. That stuff is superb! WD-40 times 100!

 

[beefmobile]

actually, on my MAC LT's, i had to grind down part of the starter bracket because it was rubbing and heating up the starter and banging against the headers. no big deal but it sucked.

 

[pear0119]

hey pear, next time try some "corrosion-x" on the stuck hardware. That stuff is superb! WD-40 times 100!

I put some Gunk Liquid wrench on there but they were partly my fault as we used the impact gun and non impact socket (stupid I know) but thats all I had.

Anyway I got everything back together and well all I can say is I won't be doing that again. LOL. Now I sound like a farting box as I have exhaust leaks coming from, well, everywhere. And yesterday after the install I didn't really care.

I know that there it is leaking from the collector on the drivers side and from the H-pipe at the over axle pipe. Now I gotta find the state of mind to get under there again and tighten it all up, or I might just say screw it and bring it to Ford (or some local shop) and tell them to tighten the entire exhaust.

Well for the drive home the car didn't really seem to have the power I thought, but then again it was pouring rain outside and humidity was at like 110%. Would I have to retune the car since the battery was disconnected for 2 days?

 

[DRock]

yea im pretty sure you have to retune it because after being unplugged for so long it resets itself.

 

[pear0119]

Yeah thats what I figured. I am not looking forward to finding and ridding the exhaust leaks now.

 

[silverstang]

the tune that was in your car is still in the car, it will not go away lol

 

[07 STROKER]

mine was unpluged all winter...it was still there.

 

[pear0119]

I can't wait to get her out on the open road, but damn weather network predicting rain for the next 7 days.

I think I'm gonna take it into Speedy muffler or something just to fix the exhaust leaks. I was kinda mad that there were so many leaks after 2 days of hell putting them on.

 

[08 Vegas GT]

Curious??

Did you go with a mid pipe with cats or without?

Thinking of doing long tubes with cats in the future.

 

[pear0119]

I just kept the stock mid pipe for now and am thinking about getting a splice in pro-chamber down the road, as I need the cats to pass emissions.

 

[07 STROKER]

i did the splice in prochamber...it was easy, and that was doing it on my back off of stands.