all of it.

 

:grin2:


When I first installed my SB I ran the stock heads with about 12.5 psi it made 431 I just used the Ford PI head change kit for $90 at the time it came with new TTY heads bolt and the head gaskets. I knew I was going with a ported head later and would use ARP head studs then.

Then I used the AFM cam retention tool and installed my HP S292 blower cams about a year later still using the stock valve springs. All I did was remove the valve covers used the tool to hold the correct cam timing and dropped them in. Never had to touch the timing covers or accessories. I removed the lash adjusters until the cams were in and torqued. After that I rotated the cam to their base circles and reinstalled the adjusters/lifters. I bleed them down first to make them easier to go in. I also filled the lifter bores with oil to help then pump up quicker and let them soak. When I removed them I just but the cam on the base circle and pushed the rocker from side with a screw driver and they popped right off. Some will advise against this but I have done it several times and have seen others with no issues Plus AFM (Anderson Ford Mothers sports said the did the same, especially when where testing cams on the dyno, that's why the produced the tool.

I went from 431 to 515 with a retune and a little more Rpm. I kept the Rpms to 6250. The lift was only 531.

 

The heads and valves will support a ton of boost. Think 20+ psi.

You are going to have to upgrade your valve springs, though, or else it's going to float. You can get away with 7-8psi on stock springs generally.

 

I ran 12.5psi at 6400rpm on the stock motor in my GT with no sign of valve float.

 

He's turbo. Whole different ballgame. Backpressure holds exhaust springs open.

 

+1 fet good valve springs and pump that thing with boost

 

Im in the same boat. I just built a motor, i had my heads redone to stock spec just with upgraded springs. Turbos feed these stock heads just fine, booooost!