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Mikes N/A Build, HCI Swap Info

133K views 1.5K replies 64 participants last post by  mustangmike!  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
"To MM members and viewers,

I just want to say sorry about scattering the pics in this thread. I know this helped a lot of people and answered many questions. If at anytime someone goes through this thread and needs to see the picutres, please feel free to post, or PM me concerning the issue. I still have all of the pictures, though I have adjusted a few things on my photobucket.
If you would like to see a picture, please when you post or PM give me a page number and post number. Ill get back to you asap!
I hope everyone finds this very educational, and can help influence your decision on modding a V6. Id just like to inform anyone who reads this that, when this started, I only have had basic home mechanic experience. Helped my dad occasionaly on vehicles, but never had I been into an engine before. Though my dad had been through plenty over the years. I started this project a year ago, my dad was working away for awhile so I rarely had help from him. The only resource I really had was this thread, researching what I could on google, and a Chilton's manual. A little common sense goes a long way as well!!!! Now I have access to many tools and had to rent a few as well. But for the most part, I used a craftsman tool set, about a 230 pc kit I believe. I will say this is a somewhat difficult procedure, and not something to cheap out on. You need to take your time and deal with the detailed work. I had to many issues from cheap ways out.

For those of you interested in a Cam or N/A build, I will give you my dead honest opinion being that I have just done this. Dont... Simple as that.
Now its hard for me to explain this and add up costs, simply because I had to buy entirely to many parts twice. But if I bought it all up front and had no issues, its still scary. Had I spent the same amount to get it dyno'd turn key, I could have done a basic turbo kit on a stock engine and put 300-350rwhp and probably would have been easier to do. I know FI sounds scary, but if done right and a good dyno tune used, it can be very safe so please dont let that be a factor. So if your looking for power and track times, N/A is not the way to go at all !!!!

I will say I really really like my car, I get many compliments on it, and many people have said its the best sounding cammed 6er they've heard. 14.37 and 9.23 track times on a stock auto aren't bad but aren't good either !!! If your interested on a FULL mod list, please view my garage. Im only 20 years old, Ive been good about saving most of my life and spent a **** load on this project. I was not working full time during this but was going to school full time and work prn (20 or so hours a week I guess). Paramedic shool is no joke either! Also know that the day I started this project, their was Ice/Snow on the ground, ice sickles dripping off the roof. I did this in an open car port, and thankfully it was on the south side of my house, so it helped block the north wind. Most of my work was done In th evening as well, some nights I was up till 2am working. 20* weather. It was cold. It sucked. Life story huh?

If you have any tech questions, or pic requests, I would perfer you post on this thread so others may learn as well.


For a teaser:

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Hope people have enjoyed this thread, I know its long and lots of bs included. Im sorry all the pics are gone. But Ill be more then happy to give whatever I can to anyone. I still have all my pictures !!!!

And just for an update, This friday or maybe next monday, I have a 3200 9.5'' stall from revmax on the way. Engine is out and getting peiced back together after my head gasket leaking ordeal ...

Cant wait to see new 60' and ETs !!!
 
#2 · (Edited)
It should be pretty obvious what needs to come off from what I remember. You just have to get the engine front cover off, so that means The PS/AC bracket needs to come off. Then just the engine front cover and all that stuff inside.
As for gaskets, get an engine front cover gasket kit and lower intake manifold gasket kit. That's all if IIRC.

Then oil, you can filter and reuse the coolant, I useda white assembly greasy type lube.
 
#6 ·
Radiator does stay on. All you have to take off it the fan.
I think my Ford workshop manual says all this and the order to do it in. But it doesn't really matter, as long as it all comes off. The only thing you need to remember is to take out the 'hidden' alen screw in the engine front cover.
 
#11 · (Edited)
the magical search button:

V6
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/v6-mustangs/157706-my-cam-install.html


This is for a V8, but it'll give you an idea of the work envolved - and remember a v8's cams are on top of the block in the heads and not buried in the block:
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/70365-cam-install-today-probly-tommorow-too.html


And here on SSM's install guide are some good pics of how it's done:
http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/pdf/PowerPakInstall.pdf



From what I'm seeing you can keep the radiator in,but you will def. have to drain the thing out. I should be doing this myself before the end of April in conjunction with my t-5 swap.

_
 
#16 ·
didn't we just say them all? honestly i don't know how we can go more in depth without making a video/a write-up with pics of removing every bolt. But, here it goes...

Drain Radiator
Disconnect necessary electrical connectors (including crank/cam position sensor)
Remove upper intake
Remove Lower Intake
Remove Valve Covers
Remove Rocker Arms
Remove pushrods/lifter holder thing/lifters
Remove fan
Remove alternator/PS pump bracket (I'd recommend removing the alternator because you just leave the PS pump/bracket hanging there IIRC)
Remove the Camshaft Pos. Sensor
Remove Cam Synchronizer Assembly (while cyl 1 is at TDC of compression stroke, there is a mark on the balancer to line up. Then mark the whole assembly with a marker for proper re-install alighment. tooth should be in middle of window at this point)
At some point, you've got to remove the crank pulley with a puller tool (can carefully reinstall with a piece of wood and sledge hammer)
Remove Engine Front Cover
Remove...i don't remember right now...it should be very obvious after this point. when removing the timing chain, you have to prop the tensioner back. should be easy to follow the rest in a manual.
Just be careful when removing and installing the cam (timing marks should all be lines up), not to clunk it around and damage the journals at all.
it's really not that hard. then reverse and refill fluids. and change oil too in case you got water in it, which is pretty likely.

Everyone feel free to correct me in case I missed anything.
hope this helps! just ask if you need more help.
 
#17 ·
Sweet Guys ! 9986paulk thats exactly what I was looking for, ill print that out as another tool when we go to do this !!

I cant wait to get that cam in and hear her start up !!!! Gonna make alot of people **** their pants for hating on a V6 :p

Thanks everyone for your time and input, I hope everything goes well when I start, my dad will be leaving for work so I hope our schedules work out, cant really help his even though we've planned on doing this awhile now. He has done cam work before, but doing it in car on a latemodel V6 is new to him. Shouldnt be to hard by the sound of it ! I cant wait to take **** apart !!!
 
#18 ·
Yeah it shoudln't be bad. It's fun and you'll learn a lot about an engine. It'll take a week if you work on it just a little bit every night like I did the first time. After that it'll take 4 hours or so.
 
#20 ·
Don't forget to get all new gaskets for the timing cover, lower intake, upper intake, valve cover. Also you may want to replace your lifters if you have a lot of miles 100k + same goes for the timing chain and gear while you are in there.

You are going to need some special tools too such as a valve spring compressor for on the car and a threaded in hose that will allow you to put regulated air into each cylinder to prevent the valves from falling into the heads when you remove the retainers and springs. I would only put around 50PSI at most in the cylinders when removing the retainers, any more you may spin the motor over with the air pressure.

Another good thing to replace would be your valve seals while you are in there.

EDIT: You may want to get a haynes manual, it is 10 bucks but will help you and save you if you get stuck, and works well for future things.
 
#21 ·
Camshaft

Removal


Remove the valve tappets.
Remove the timing chain.
Position the wire harness aside.
Remove the radiator fan and shroud assembly.
Remove the engine balance shaft drive gear from the camshaft.
Remove the camshaft key.
Remove the engine balance shaft drive gear.
Remove the camshaft.
Remove the bolts.
Remove the camshaft thrust plate.
Remove the spacer.
Remove the camshaft.
Installation

NOTE: Lubricate the camshaft with clean engine oil prior to installation. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

STRAIGHT From our online reference database, sorry pics didn't work, I fixed

EDIT: Time is 11.6 Hours as well by the book!! Dang that is good!
 
#24 ·
Now stupidly ima gonna ask I. WANT to have a cam installed in the summer but I don't wanna mess with my engine now will my dad although he used to build/repair chevy small blocks when he used to race......anyway should I jus fork ovr money to a shop for them to do it I'm aware I will be screwed with the labor hr charges but at this moment its the only option I see to have a cam installed
 
#23 ·
The other guys covered most of it.

The main thing is to take your time. You can get a bunch of baggies to keep up with your bolts and what not.

I took my radiator out. Once you drain the fluid it's like 2 bolts and transmission cooler lines if you have an auto. Easy to take out and gives you more room if for some reason you have to get down inside the engine bay.
 
#25 ·
Well, that's your call...If you're not going to do it and you want one, that's the only way it can happen. So it basically comes down to: do you want it or not? It's really not that hard. Or find someone that lives by you to do it for cheaper than a shop. I would if I lived close to you, but idk where you even live.
 
#26 ·
I live in new york jus out side of albany if u live in ny I'm willing to drive out I realy don't mind but keep in mind the shop tht would install it would aslo dyno tune it but if u can hand held tune it then hell I would love to have u install it or if I'm mis understanding this jus let me know the goods...again if u live in ny ill drive out
 
#29 ·
If your dad used to build small block chevy's you should have no problem. It is very similar except it is a ford and fuel injected.
 
#30 ·
Basically 6ixer, it can run off a hand held, the stock computer does have the ability to adjust mixture and timing, but if you want to have everything 100% it needs to be dynotuned. Really no point in doing a cam and never dyno tunning it.
Doing the swap can take a day or a week depending on how things go. Want to make sure you have EVERYTHING you need before you start, and hope that nothing breaks in the process. **** does happen. Thats why i made this thread, I want to make sure I know EVERYTHING before I open the hood.
It sounds like you and your dad could do this anyways. A chevy and Ford are different, but a push rod engine has its basic concepts. Im sure if he can do all that to a Chevy he can do it to a Ford.



Also JW, does anyone know if our 3.8 block was based of another block ? Like an old 289, 302, 351, 390 ?? And is the 289,302,351 block all the same ?
JW Some say V6 blocks are based off other V8s w/ 2 less cylinders. Obviously intakes and such are different and firing order ... common sense. ( just so i dont sound like a complete idiot for that )
 
#32 ·
our block is based off the 351 W I believe. I am not sure, I know it is slightly different.

And on the small block ford thing, I am not sure, but I believe that some of them shame a common block but not all of them.

EDIT: Oh NP man on ^

Post up some vids of when you get done with your cam :D

I was smart I asked for a wideband A/F for xmas and a pod for my steering column. Then for BDAY in march I am asking for the cam, and in between there I am going to buy some LS springs and GT retainers!
 
#33 ·
Its not tht he doesn't know lol hell ik he can its just if I say one day......dad can u help me with installing a cam in my car....he will say NO......no need for a cam in ur car

But yet when I almost bought a cammed gt a few months ago he was like eh...its cammed so don't expect much mpg lol and he said a cam in. A non pi heads would not suply ample air to the cly lol but again ik he can do it but he thinks its quote....un nessicarylol
 
#34 ·
haha I understang man, kinda delt with the same thing till i shows the video's of RFC and 6stang... Jaw dropping reaction to the sound :p

But sound like he is saying it to more of a mechanical and power area... Talk it over with him ... maybe he will who knows.
I maybe running into issues with my dad being able to help me... But ive been about ready to nut in my pants to get this done over winter break, so IT IS happening even If I have to get out there and do every bit of it by myself ... I know I can, just gonna be alot more complicated and stressfull not having a helping hand around. But im doing it at a friend of his' shop. And they have cammed so trucks there before so maybe I can convience him to help me to :p

... I was just driving through town and there was a fairly new corvette beside me looping and making alot of noise ... made me depressed :p cant wait to get some sound behind my 6 !!!!