Modded Mustang Forums banner
101 - 111 of 111 Posts
Discussion starter · #101 ·
It says it does. It can be done with jack stands and some pretty basic tools. Generally takes about 4-5 hours. Again, I can't say because I have no idea how capable you and your dad are. Unless you know what you're doing, I wouldn't try it

Here's some links on the swap:
YouTube - StangTV - New Take Off V6 - Installing a 8.8 Rear in 2007 GT
8.8 Rear End Swap - The Mustang Collective Forums
You have any estimate on how much it would cost to have it professionally installed?
 
Discussion starter · #102 ·
So since the 7.5" can handle about 350hp, and I only have 210 and don't plan on getting up around 350, I'm just going to keep my 7.5" and buy a LSD, but what would 4.10 change?
 
So since the 7.5" can handle about 350hp, and I only have 210 and don't plan on getting up around 350, I'm just going to keep my 7.5" and buy a LSD, but what would 4.10 change?
4.10s would make the car accelerate faster, gets you into your power range quicker. Slightly affects mpgs since the rpms will be higher but apparently it's not a significant drop. Pretty sure you have 3.31's currently in your '06 4.0.

And I've heard of people messing up the 7.5 with a CAI, tune and a set of slicks. It's the sudden application of torque, not necessarily hp, that can break it. As a dd with street tires it will be fine, but I'm just saying some people find it to be smarter to get an 8.8 instead of building the 7.5, since it's not a whole lot more expensive. Gears (~$180), t-lok (~$220) and install ($400-500) in the 7.5 adds up. That's about $800 give or take when you can get a stronger 8.8 in about the same price range with gears and t-lok factory installed. Just something to think about
 
Discussion starter · #104 ·
4.10s would make the car accelerate faster, gets you into your power range quicker. Slightly affects mpgs since the rpms will be higher but apparently it's not a significant drop. Pretty sure you have 3.31's currently in your '06 4.0.

And I've heard of people messing up the 7.5 with a CAI, tune and a set of slicks. It's the sudden application of torque, not necessarily hp, that can break it. As a dd with street tires it will be fine, but I'm just saying some people find it to be smarter to get an 8.8 instead of building the 7.5, since it's not a whole lot more expensive. Gears (~$180), t-lok (~$220) and install ($400-500) in the 7.5 adds up. That's about $800 give or take when you can get a stronger 8.8 in about the same price range with gears and t-lok factory installed. Just something to think about
For a pretty even highway/city mix would a 3.73 or 4.10 be better? It's for daily driving and I don't plan on getting over 110.
 
For a pretty even highway/city mix would a 3.73 or 4.10 be better? It's for daily driving and I don't plan on getting over 110.
I'd say 4.10s. No one really seems to regret getting them. Are you auto or 5speed?
 
4.10s would make the car accelerate faster, gets you into your power range quicker. Slightly affects mpgs since the rpms will be higher but apparently it's not a significant drop. Pretty sure you have 3.31's currently in your '06 4.0.

And I've heard of people messing up the 7.5 with a CAI, tune and a set of slicks. It's the sudden application of torque, not necessarily hp, that can break it. As a dd with street tires it will be fine, but I'm just saying some people find it to be smarter to get an 8.8 instead of building the 7.5, since it's not a whole lot more expensive. Gears (~$180), t-lok (~$220) and install ($400-500) in the 7.5 adds up. That's about $800 give or take when you can get a stronger 8.8 in about the same price range with gears and t-lok factory installed. Just something to think about

Getting a T-Lok isn't building a 7.5" I'm building my 7.5" I have a detriot trutrac diff, it's a locking differential that changes how the rear-end applies torque at launch and essentially allows the 7.5" rear to take more torque without actually reinforcing the rear end. I'm also getting an axle brace to reinforcing the rear itself, I figure between this and not abusing it I should be good.
 
well, since you're going for a gear change i definately suggest getting the CAI/Tuner combo first. The tuner will correct your spedometer when you swap out the rear end.

I went with an 8.8" rear instead of building my 7.5" because i got a deal for the 8.8" for $300 :D. It depends on what your intentions for your car are. If you're thinking of an engine swap or some F/I go for the 8.8" it might cost a hundred or two more but it'll be worth it. But if you're just doing bolt-ons stay with the 7.5" and put the extra money towards something else.

If you're doing lot's of highway driving go for 3.73's. I did and saw a few drops in mpg about 2-3. The thing with 3.73's is that you'll always be wondering what 4.10's would be like :(. I still love my 3.73's makes my car pull MUCH harder than stock. Don't worry about your top speed being lowered because it's negligable for daily driving. If I could do it again I would go for 4.10's though you have to ask yourself "did I buy a mustang for mpg?"
 
Discussion starter · #109 ·
well, since you're going for a gear change i definately suggest getting the CAI/Tuner combo first. The tuner will correct your spedometer when you swap out the rear end.

I went with an 8.8" rear instead of building my 7.5" because i got a deal for the 8.8" for $300 :D. It depends on what your intentions for your car are. If you're thinking of an engine swap or some F/I go for the 8.8" it might cost a hundred or two more but it'll be worth it. But if you're just doing bolt-ons stay with the 7.5" and put the extra money towards something else.

If you're doing lot's of highway driving go for 3.73's. I did and saw a few drops in mpg about 2-3. The thing with 3.73's is that you'll always be wondering what 4.10's would be like :(. I still love my 3.73's makes my car pull MUCH harder than stock. Don't worry about your top speed being lowered because it's negligable for daily driving. If I could do it again I would go for 4.10's though you have to ask yourself "did I buy a mustang for mpg?"
Well all I've thought about putting on other than the LSD and CAI are visual mods that look good. So should I just stay with the 7.5 and pay for the LSD and gears to be installed, or should I buy the complete 8.8 which me and my dad could swap out ourselves? And no I didn't buy it for mpg, who did?
 
Well all I've thought about putting on other than the LSD and CAI are visual mods that look good. So should I just stay with the 7.5 and pay for the LSD and gears to be installed, or should I buy the complete 8.8 which me and my dad could swap out ourselves? And no I didn't buy it for mpg, who did?
I defiantly wouldn't install a t-lok on the 7.5" either build the 7.5" with a locking diff, girdle, and axle brace or get an 8.8".
 
101 - 111 of 111 Posts