On my coupe I have south side lowers and competition engineering three way adjustable shocks, body stiffening will help it leave straight and move battery to the rear for better weight transfer

 

Slicks

 

Just do lowers and adj shocks for the rears. Stock springs are fine. Aftermarket uppers tend to bind. And slicks. If you do slicks make sure your torque boxes are reinforced.

 

I have read that the best uppers are stock, unless you want to adjust pinion angle.
So this is good advice, but i would do aftermarket springs.

 

It's a fox. All you need is some SFCs and slicks. It'll hook.

 

Apparently you and I are all the people that understand... :facepalm:

I'm testing my car ASAP and all it has are lowering springs, tokico uppers/lowers and 26x10 slicks. Guaranteed it will hook if I dump it at 5K. I also guarantee it will hook on spray.

People don't get that these cars with STOCK SUSPENSION (literally stock uppers/lowers and springs) go 10s all the time. Next mod on my list are subframes.

 

Why the facepalm?

 

its not as easy as you think to lock up the convertor at 5000 rpms and hook up with 20 year old stock upper and lower control arms and unmodified springs with used up bushings, not boxed up uca mounts, no arb, not scaled, etc... not to mention the front...

has it been done? yes. if you can do as easy as you type then congrats

 

Probably cuz stock suspension class doesn't actually mean they are doing it on the STOCK suspension the car came with. You know that it's just placement, right?

And everyone shouldn't bitch about aftermarket uppers for being to cheap and not buying good one's with heims. Don't forget the housing bushings for the rear too.

 

*cough* and caltracs

 

the title of this thread is so misleading :lmao

 

Exactly. More power, less weight. 400 lbs is huge. No way in hell a car weighing what mine weighs, making the power it makes, will 60' in the 1.3s. Not going to happen, no way, no how. Especially on leaf springs, and throw in the fact it has 3.70 gears. A 1.50 is solid for that setup. A fox doesn't need all that BS to go mid 10s. It needs slicks and SFCs. People do it all day long.

 

Exactly. More lower, less weight. 400 lbs is huge. No way in hell a car weighing what mine weighs, making the power it makes, will 60' in the 1.3s. Not going to happen, no way, no how. Especially on leaf springs, and throw in the fact it has 3.70 gears. A 1.50 is solid for that setup. A fox doesn't need all that BS to go mid 10s. It needs slicks and SFCs. People do it all day long.

Im not commenting on your setup as it sounds fine to me. people do go mid 10s on foxbody stock junk. thats fine. but stock is sloppy suspension components. thats a fact- junk imo. use it if you have to, but if you can afford to upgrade I recommend upgrading all day long.

 

make sure you remove the rear quad shocks and get your upper torque boxes welded so you dont tear the stock welds. get single adj uca's if on a budget or get doubles if you can. I have double adj. uca and NON adjustable lowers on mine. their a billet solid 1 piece lca on mine. I dont have stock springs anymore (i have coilovers now) but if you do a typical setup is to cut one coil off the spring if they are a v8 spring. you want the v8 spring not 4cyl.

In addition, I would get single adjustble rear shocks from Strange if you can or maybe a used adj. set or a known performing set if not adjustable. for the fronts you want to be able to lift the bumper/frame/etc. pretty easliy so it transfers weight well. scaling will also help as you can put the weight where you want...

then i would budget for an arb quickly.

IMO

 

Stock is junk. You have to to get lucky or have lots of power to be mid 10's. It takes a little more than subframes and slicks, Fastback!

And for the coilovers for your car are just like mine. I got the kit from Autofab Racecars. They beat everyone's price by at least 40 bucks after shipping. It's a QA1 setup, backhalf style kit, and I went spendy double adjustables which put the kit at 609.00 before shipping.

 

thats a nice setup. i bet it handles like a cadillac with that

 

Lol. You guys wouldn't like making a pass in my car. Especially a bottle pass when it actually does something. It's exciting.

 

Maybe I'm missing something, but I see no way that will work for converting from leafs. I'm looking at it on my phone though, so I can't see it real well.

 

You would still need a ladder bar or 4 link setup. Your leafs are your control arms, not sure what I was thinking, lol. Their 4 link kit is 300 bucks and then you need to pick the style of locator yet. Cross link or wishbone.

 

Lol.... Yeah. That's what I was seeing. I don't think the shocks hold all that **** in place very well. Heidts makes a 4 link/Panhard bar setup for it that's about $1500, but I hear it's adjustability sucks.

The fronts is where the big money comes in. It has to be converted to a Mustang II setup to eliminate the strut towers. It's not cheap. My leafs seem to be doing just fine. I think the car 60's pretty decent for what it is. I need to mount a gopro inside the car so I can see how much my hands move to keep it headed down the track. Lol

 

Future brother in law has the wishbone style locator in his malibu

 

K I got all my parts and put them in, I'm going back together with the rear drums and can't seem to find a legit pic on how to put them back together I've done drums many times and a few times on this car, just wanna find a good pic/diagram on where what color springs go where. 1986 gt 351w

 

Sub frame connectors, a good set of adjustable shocks in the rear, add an air bag on the passenger side rear ( helps plant ur foot print) & a good set of slicks.... also if running stock upper & lowers replace bushings ... I've seen lots of the cars go in to the 10s on stock style suspension with a lil tweaking!

I'd rather be racing!

 

Got everything put back together and drove the car, the rear end is now
Stiff and feels great, now the front end is soft as hell, what should I do? Shocks, springs, and camber caster plates?

 

Here's a quick video of a burnout, rear end no longer hops, just had to try it, the nitto tires are loud