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07stanggt

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Alright the rear went today. Didnt think it was going to happen that fast.

Im ready to do this myself. There is no point in paying someone else. three different people messed with the car. it aint right. I can mess my own car up from here on out. Its cheaper that way and then i dont feel like i got taken.

Short story. had a vibration, replaced bearings and sleeves, had a leak, fixed leak, rear burned up. Bought a new take of rear with 4.10s in it, had to replace the pinion for the spydershaft, had a vibration and some whine, put the stock driveshaft back on, found metal in the fluid when taking the spydershaft pinion flange off, rear went up.

now im talking to someone today that told me techincally anytime you take that pinoin flange out, you should basically take the rear apart and use new crush sleeves.

Here are my questions.

Are there any articles or ford directions for this? pictures would be nice.

what do i need to do/know?

What tools do i need, gauges to check everything like make sure the axle is right so forth and obviously depth.

What should the pinoin angle be stock. Actually, shouldnt the pinion angle be 0? meaning that its all lined up. I dont want 60ft pinion angle.

And what do i need to look at as far as seeing whats reusable, on the LCD, splines, housing itself? Obviously i need to replace ring pinion, bearings, crush sleeves.

When i was present for the first rebuild i do remember him doing something on a machine. Was this the crush sleeve on the pinion? and what do i do about that.
 
he was probly installing the pinion bearing with a press.........

if you need any help on this i can probly get the Ford online workshop manual for ya'....it would be monday or so before i can do it. let me know.
 
you don't have to use a new pinion crush sleeve when changing the pinion flange. they have a different measurement, I think it was 16" pounds instead of 12" pounds....

They are pretty easy to setup, you will need a pinion depth finder for sure and a dial indicator for the backlash.
 
can he rent any of the tools from autozone?
 
Discussion starter · #11 · (Edited)
you don't have to use a new pinion crush sleeve when changing the pinion flange. they have a different measurement, I think it was 16" pounds instead of 12" pounds....

They are pretty easy to setup, you will need a pinion depth finder for sure and a dial indicator for the backlash.

thats it. There are little pins that hold the spline in right. pop them out pull the splines out. The pinion, if its not melted should just take a little banging to get out?
 
There is no reason to replace the crush collar when changing the pinion flange, unless you overtorque the pinion nut and crush the collar. Your eally just have to measure turning torque, and reset the bolt to retain that torque. Or, we even just state the pinion nut, stake the pinion in the same place,a nd stake the flange, then just line it all up when reassembled, with no problems.

What is actually wrong with your rearend, or are you just rebuilding it because of some metal in the fluid? That may be jumping the gun, small metal particles and clutch material are perfectly normal, especially after breakin.

If you do have to actually rebuild it, you basically have to inspect every part for damage, burn marks, broken parts, chips, knicks, etc. Look for abnormal bearing wear and stuff like that, replace anything that is bad. Crush sleeve cannot be reused, so replace that if the pinion comes out. Make sure you do not loose track of which shims went where, because if you do not wind up replacing the ring and pinion or the carrier you can just put it back together the way it came apart.

As far as setting it up from scratch, you will need a pinion depth gauge, a dial indicator, a shop poress with bearing seperator tool, and a GOOD torque wrench, not autozone ****. You may be able to just measure the stock pinion shims, then add or subtract the number of shims stamped on the new pinion, then just check depth with the pinion depth tool. Once depth is set, install the new bearing and then set pinion preload by following the manual procedures for torquing the pinion nut. Then you'll have to install the differential, measure the backlash and add or subtract shims untill it is right. Once it's right, set bearing preload, torque the bearings down and measure backlash again, if it is good, then run the pattern and see where it lies, then shim the carrier either way untill the pattern is good.

I may have forgotten something, but that's the jist of it. There is a lot of "feel" to it, and some math. A service manual will help a lot.

But I'd see what exactly is wrong first, it seems like you go through rearends awefully quick. I thought you had a Ford tech set the last one up? Is that the one that just went out?

Also, pinion angle will not cause rearend problems. It will cause vibration. And not many rearend problems will cause vibration, that is most likely elsewhere in the driveline. Pinion angle is set by the position of the trans mount and the angle uf the rear axle, and can't be too bad unless you bent something. It would be specified in the service manual and is measured with an angle finder.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Urban i appreciate the info. Yes supposedly a ford tech did set the rear up.


But this rear is gone. No question about that. Was on the highway, felt power loss let of the gas and got in the slow lane, the rear started to howl. got off at a exit and then the metal started to grind and some smoke. Luckily i really only coasted about 30 yards after the metal started to grind. I was nowhere near as bad as the last time. There isnt a puddle of fluid under my car. just a a little bit comeing out of the pinoin seal area.

So I dont know what exactly the damage will be. But there is no doubt that i am relpaceing the ring, pinion and bearings and so forth. I dont know about the LSD, or the splines and the housing itself.
 
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